Elm repot not doing well

[rrgg126]

Hey guys,

I have a twin trunk elm that start putting out leaves 1 month before spring. I kept it indoors next to the window and it has been growing like crazy. 3 weeks ago I repotted the tree into a bonsai pot and cut off the other trunk. Ever since the repot the tree has been wilting and dropping dead leaves. Im removing the dead leaves and watering when needed but still no signs of new growth and continued yellowing. I know elms are very forgiving but I feel like I might have shocked it too much. What do you guys think?

Im in NYC right now.

 

[Poink88]

You chose the worst time to repot & chop. Leafed stage after spring. The tree just used up all it's stored energy to make those leaves and you removed them before they can recharge the tree.

Just wait and see if it pulls through. Good luck!

 

[JudyB]

Did you take off a lot of roots when you repotted?
Just don't overwater, try to keep the roots warm, and hopefully it'll come back for you. Elms can withstand a lot of torture.

 

[rrgg126]

Did you take off a lot of roots when you repotted?
Just don't overwater, try to keep the roots warm, and hopefully it'll come back for you. Elms can withstand a lot of torture.

Hi Judy,

Yes I took quite a bit off. I've been keeping it indoors and not watering unless the top 1/3 layer is dry. Hopefully it pulls thru. Thanks for your help.

 

[rrgg126]

You chose the worst time to repot & chop. Leafed stage after spring. The tree just used up all it's stored energy to make those leaves and you removed them before they can recharge the tree.

Just wait and see if it pulls through. Good luck!

Thanks Poink,

I was under the assumption that you can repot in early spring as long as u balance the root reduction with foliage reduction (i assumed removing the other trunk was part of foliage reduction).

 

[tmpgh]

It is best to repot after buds swell but before they break. Once there are leaves on the tree, it's time to back off.

 

[sikadelic]

Im not sure how brutal your weather is this time of year, but early Spring usually means a few weeks before buds begin swelling on the rest of your native foliage. I live far South of NY but if I were guessing, I would bet there are at least a couple frosts left depending on how far North you are. Frosts will kill off any soft new growth so you may be a bit early.

Keeping it inside should help though in case it starts to bounce back. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. A valuable lesson learned no matter how it turns out. Good luck!

 

[rrgg126]

so just making sure i dont make this mistake again.....

so this guy repotted after a lot of new growth occurred so i assumed i could too.
chinese elm repot


this is what i know
deciduous: repot when buds swell
evergreen: repot before rapid growth

i know elms are semi-deciduous so im a bit confused. can someone explain?

 

[sikadelic]

so just making sure i dont make this mistake again.....

so this guy repotted after a lot of new growth occurred so i assumed i could too.
chinese elm repot


this is what i know
deciduous: repot when buds swell
evergreen: repot before rapid growth

i know elms are semi-deciduous so im a bit confused. can someone explain?

I'll do my best here but I am sure others will chime in and fill in my gaps.

That video you posted was published in July. I am not sure where he lives (or where it was filmed) but July is definitely a warmer climate for all areas of the US, if indeed that is where that guy is at. I'll admit that I didnt watch the entire video.

For your area, you definitely want consistent temps well above freezing to ensure the best possible growth for your tree. The heat helps the roots to respond appropriately, as well as the soil temperature increase sending the signal to the tree that it is time to wake up for Spring.

All deciduous trees that I know of can be repotted and root pruned during Spring. Evergreens is a broad term and covers a lot of species. You can't necessarily say repot all of them before rapid growth. Some pines, for instance, respond best to repotting during the middle of Summer.

It seems that you have a case of itchy fingers which we have all fell victim to at some point or another. It may not have been the best time but that also doesn't mean your tree is destined for firewood. Perhaps it would be more helpful to give a good description of where you are at in NY, what soil did you use, what type of work did you perform on the roots, how did you pot it, etc. Pictures are also very helpful if you have any.

 

[edprocoat]

so just making sure i dont make this mistake again.....

so this guy repotted after a lot of new growth occurred so i assumed i could too.
chinese elm repot


this is what i know
deciduous: repot when buds swell
evergreen: repot before rapid growth

i know elms are semi-deciduous so im a bit confused. can someone explain?

RRGG, the problem with those videos (I did not watch it) is they usually show the work being done and you never see how the tree made out, for all anyone knows the tree could have died. I used to look at an occasional one and seen brutal work done on stock and the guy in the video say something like " thats how to root prune, defoliate, chop and wire your Bonsai. " and they never have the part " and this is the tree 2 months later healthy and recovered.

ed

 

[Poink88]

so just making sure i dont make this mistake again.....

so this guy repotted after a lot of new growth occurred so i assumed i could too.
chinese elm repot


this is what i know
deciduous: repot when buds swell
evergreen: repot before rapid growth

i know elms are semi-deciduous so im a bit confused. can someone explain?

IF your elm did not drop it's leaves then it was photosynthesizing the whole time...you can chop and repot anytime, though spring is still the best/optimal time. IF it was exposed to cold and shed it's leaves...then it used all it's stored energy to produce the new leaves (and roots). Chopping those before it recharged the tree can be fatal.

 

[cmeg1]

Koreshoff's book sais the Chinese elm will give you some freedom during repotting time as you can let them burst a bit while you repot other trees that need repotting as buds plump up.

 

[JudyB]

I do know that I've gotten away with a later repotting on these... they are the ones I put off till last usually. Never had a problem with mine, it makes me wonder if there is some other problem here. Maybe it is mostly last years growth that you are seeing fall?

 

[Poink88]

The best way is for the OP to answer these questions and reduce guessing.

When (date) did it leaf out?
Was the tree leafless prior?
How healthy are the new growth?
When (date) was it repotted?
How much root was removed?
How much foliage was removed?

 

[rrgg126]

The best way is for the OP to answer these questions and reduce guessing.

When (date) did it leaf out?
Was the tree leafless prior?
How healthy are the new growth?
When (date) was it repotted?
How much root was removed?
How much foliage was removed?

thank you everybody for your responses. hopefully this will give you guys a better understanding of my situation

-Date leaves came out: March 1st
-Tree was leafless almost all of winter
-Very fast and healthy growth
-Repotted March 19th
-I removed about 3/4 of the roots
-Foliage was reduced to 1/2 after twin trunk was removed

The picture was right after the repot and the twin trunk removal

 

[Poink88]

18 days may not be enough to re-generate the lost energy. It is running on fumes right now.

Next time...it is better to do all these before or as the bud forms. You can also leave them a few months before doing the repot IF really necessary. The closer you are from after the leafing stage, the higher the risk.

As I said, leave it be, give it the best conditions possible, and see what happens. It will fight to live.

Good luck!

 

[edprocoat]

18 days may not be enough to re-generate the lost energy. It is running on fumes right now.

Next time...it is better to do all these before or as the bud forms. You can also leave them a few months before doing the repot IF really necessary. The closer you are from after the leafing stage, the higher the risk.

As I said, leave it be, give it the best conditions possible, and see what happens. It will fight to live.

Good luck!

Dario, do you have to shade your Chinese Elms during the summer months in Texas ? I keep mine semi shaded when it gets summer heat in Ohio.

ed

 

[GrimLore]

Dario, do you have to shade your Chinese Elms during the summer months in Texas ? I keep mine semi shaded when it gets summer heat in Ohio.

ed

I use shade cloth on all elms and maples through most of the summer here and they stay robust. It struck me as odd but it was suggested and honestly works out well. I butted in because we probably have a similar summer to you.

Grimmy

 

[Poink88]

Dario, do you have to shade your Chinese Elms during the summer months in Texas ? I keep mine semi shaded when it gets summer heat in Ohio.

ed

I have no Chinese Elm (just Cedar elms) but see lots of them on parking lots here...unprotected against summer direct sun.

Most of my Cedar Elms are out in direct sun...they are loving it. BTW, the ones getting partial shade are loving it too! (seem greener actually) IF I can, I will install some shade cloth.

 

[edprocoat]

I use shade cloth on all elms and maples through most of the summer here and they stay robust. It struck me as odd but it was suggested and honestly works out well. I butted in because we probably have a similar summer to you.

Grimmy

Yeah probably the same weather with maybe a little less rain than we have been having the past few years. I get leaf burn on mine if not protected.

ed