EUROPEAN HORNBEAM

Timbo

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Thanks Peter! Hmmm well I think mine is much more stubborn as they only way to get the leaves off is either pulling them off by hand or with scissors.
I have to cut them off also, pulling them just pulls off the brittle leaf and leaves the stem. Seem harder to get off dead than alive.
 

BobbyLane

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I use a combo of pulling them off, if they come away easily or scissors. I also find it therapeutic snipping off the brown leaves, its like unveiling a painting or digging for treasure. its almost as satisfying as digging for a good nebari and being rewarded with diamonds and gold💰:)
 

Lars Grimm

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Walter had a Rowan tree where he stuck some moss in the hollow to speed up the rot, its on his blog.
if you really want to accelerate the process, stick the spag moss in then encourage live moss to grow on top of that. or better still just hollow it out deeper!;)
@leatherback and @BobbyLane Is the idea that you let it rot for a while and then put the hard brakes and treat everything with a wood hardener? Does this give you good texture to the wood grain versus just carving deeper to begin with?
 

BobbyLane

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ive not used moss to speed up the process. i just leave them out on the edge of my balcony all winter and it doesnt take long for the deadwood to look weathered. i know in the US you guys have harsher winters and are a bit more tentative about leaving trees out. i dont treat hornbeams, the wood is extremely tough and takes a long time to rot.
 

Lars Grimm

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ive not used moss to speed up the process. i just leave them out on the edge of my balcony all winter and it doesnt take long for the deadwood to look weathered. i know in the US you guys have harsher winters and are a bit more tentative about leaving trees out. i dont treat hornbeams, the wood is extremely tough and takes a long time to rot.
That's interesting. I have a large hornbeam, similar in size to Sergio's and it has rotted pretty extensively at the base where there is contact with the soil.
 

leatherback

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@leatherback and @BobbyLane Is the idea that you let it rot for a while and then put the hard brakes and treat everything with a wood hardener? Does this give you good texture to the wood grain versus just carving deeper to begin with?
As I understand it, and what I see on some of my tree that do not heal fast enough.. Basically you just let it rot. Biology: The tree will create a natural barrier between dead and alive, working against rot by impregnating a dividing layer with tannins etc. You can scratch the softer stuff out.
 

JoeR

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Today's work. Hornbeam tends to retain most of its leaves through the winter months. Taking each leaf off by hand can be a long and tedious process specially on large trees like this one. But somehow today I found it to be almost therapeutic. The crinkling noise of the dried leaves as I moved through the twigs and branches had an undeniable calming effect.

I made some big decisions and drastically cut back some of the original branching that was just too thick. You may ask why not do this from the get go but sometimes I like to wait and see how a tree develops to help me with my subsequent steps in the development process.

No wiring was done yet. Probably will pick this work up again in the next few weeks.

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A large chunk was sawed off at the very top of the left trunk which greatly improved the taper. I counted the rings and that tip alone was roughly twenty years old.

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Mighty clean cut, especially if the wood is as tough as American hornbeam. Whats the saw you used? Need to get a new one!
 

Timbo

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Mighty clean cut, especially if the wood is as tough as American hornbeam. Whats the saw you used? Need to get a new one!
Was thinking this also, I use a reciprocating saw with a good blade on my hornbeam, it's hard and shakes the tree a lot. I didn't have much luck using a hand saw similar to that one.
There is a smaller one handed corded saw that might get in smaller spaces better.
 

MACH5

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Mighty clean cut, especially if the wood is as tough as American hornbeam. Whats the saw you used? Need to get a new one!

It's a Corona razor saw with a 10" blade. You can get it a various places including Amazon. It goes through wood like butter although with this hornbeam I did brake a bit of a sweat cutting that piece off. Great saw! I didn't want to use my sawzall because I needed full and careful control of the cut.
 

JoeR

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It's a Corona razor saw with a 10" blade. You can get it a various places including Amazon. It goes through wood like butter although with this hornbeam I did brake a bit of a sweat cutting that piece off. Great saw! I didn't want to use my sawzall because I needed full and careful control of the cut.
Awesome thanks Sergio, and I bet you did break a sweat! I find the same problem with the sawzall. Much too rough unless the tree is really anchored into the ground and so forth. $22 on Amazon, not bad at all.
 

clem

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Bobby, although the view you are referencing is still at play, I am beginning to be quite partial to the one I am showing now. While the base is indeed better from this angle, the overall stance and movement in my view is also greater and speaks to its overall powerful character. By comparison, the other view feels rather gentle and more sedate.
Hello Sergio, i've made a virtual with the 2 possible fronts side to side, to compare.. and, its just my2cents but i feel that the new front (on the right) is more powerfull, with prettier nebari and better taper of the base and has more "soul", is more "touching" "dreamlike" than the tree on the left, which is more natural looking like an old chestnut tree. Anyway, both are good & it's a very promising tree 👍


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Lars Grimm

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Here is a good video of Walter explaining his approach to carving deciduous trees. Which is exactly what I intend to do.

I've forgotten how much I love those Walter Pall videos. Before Mirai Live, I used to obsess over them as there was so little content out there.
 

MACH5

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Hello Sergio, i've made a virtual with the 2 possible fronts side to side, to compare.. and, its just my2cents but i feel that the new front (on the right) is more powerfull, with prettier nebari and better taper of the base and has more "soul", is more "touching" "dreamlike" than the tree on the left, which is more natural looking like an old chestnut tree. Anyway, both are good & it's a very promising tree 👍


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Yes, thanks clem! I agree and looking at the tree in person and flipping between the two, I am very partial to the one on the right. It does have more character and "soul" as you pointed out. Hard to tell in the photos but from the latest front I am working with (right photo), there is another sub-trunk on the lower right that adds complexity and dimensionality to the image.
 

MACH5

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I use a combo of pulling them off, if they come away easily or scissors. I also find it therapeutic snipping off the brown leaves, its like unveiling a painting or digging for treasure. its almost as satisfying as digging for a good nebari and being rewarded with diamonds and gold💰:)

Well said!
 

MACH5

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Quick share from tonight as I came out and saw this tree dusted in snow! Took these with my IPhone so not the best quality. Although I have not done much work on it for quite some time, it is definitely in the queue to be worked. Looking at it, I think now I am changing my mind about its front and may go back to my original pick, give or take a few degrees left or right. I'll be posting more of this tree later in a month or two once I get to it.

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