Experiments with areo/fogponics

StreamGrove

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Over the last month I've been experimenting with a blend of areoponics and fogponics to propagate. Thought it would be cool to have a thread where we could share our experiences.

It will be about a year since I started bonsai, so I am very much in the learning process.

Thanks to the people that have already shared tips about certain products to help the process. @cmeg1

I am leaning more towards, Wisteria, Jacaranda, etc but I did try some Japanese Maples. The wisreria from hardwood leafless cuttings took off like crazy, and even though the maples leaves had a really ruff go and practically did all fall off, they are actually slowly rooting.(see root pic) 20200416_210854.jpg20200501_154610.jpg20200501_154638.jpg20200501_154646.jpg20200501_154809.jpg
 

StreamGrove

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Cheers man thanks. Nice setup. One thing I've been watching is how a cuttings leaves hold up. So far ive seen minimal healthy leaves, yellow and drop, larger single leaves stay stronger if deeper green, and smaller leaves crisp up. Rooting might take longer but about 80% of the things working are from leafless hardwoods with fresh clone growth. Those maple roots are on a leafless cutting..
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Hope you have good success.

Even if this first round fail, or have a low success rate, keep trying. Some trees root better with semi-hardwood cuttings, taken middle of summer. Some the cuttings should be taken in autumn, and allowed to callus over in the refrigerator, wrapped in sphagnum, then set up into the propagator. It will take experimentation.

I also suggest focusing on less available species. Jacaranda is easy from seed, no need to propagate by any other method. Named cultivars of maples and flowering crab apples, these are in demand, command a premium price over simple seedlings. Just a thought.
 

StreamGrove

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Some the cuttings should be taken in autumn, and allowed to callus over in the refrigerator, wrapped in sphagnum, then set up into the propagator.
Do you soak the autumn cuttings in rooting hormone before putting in the refrigerator?
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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I have, but usually do not. I usually don't bother, for 2 reasons. One is over-use, or excess concentration of hormones can actually retard root formation. Second, I'm not trying to pay the mortgage with the product of my efforts, so if my success rate is lower, I don't really care, as long as I get one or two to take. I have used hormones, if you do, just soak the end you want the roots to form on.

Wrap the base of the cuttings in moist long fiber sphagnum moss, Then put the bundle in a plastic bag, include a label, or you might forget over the winter. Store in the refrigerator, preferably in the back were temperatures are more stable. The door opening frequently means often the temperature in the refrigerator is not uniform. Or use a refrigerator that is not in the kitchen.

Remove bundles of cuttings when their chill requirement has been met, or when space opens up in your cloning machine. For example maples usually only need 90 days of chill, but if your machine is full, you can hold the cuttings an extra month or two in your refrigerator.
 

StreamGrove

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That method sounds much more promising working with the new growth on a maple hardwood cutting. Trying to micromanage and preserve soft maple cuttings un callous with leaves in the cloaner has been a nightmare.
 

StreamGrove

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Wisteria leaf growth is growing well. One produced a new branch in 3 days. Most have callous with very tiny new root stubs but no true roots yet. Leaf life seems short and getting some crisp and wilt, maybe due to extream heat wave we are having. Have cut the light down to only 2 bulbs, and have light off during the night with fog/areo cycling 3hr on 1hr off. Crazy watching all this new growth with little to no roots. Only thing I can think of is it might take a few leaves to die and regrow before true roots make it stable.
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Sekibonsai

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Wisteria is not much of a challenge- roots wherever hits the ground... Maples are the litmus test!
 
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