Extended season starting trees indoors

cmeg1

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Coreana Hornbeam Aeroponic Seedling Air-Layer Experiment.

Had to try this.I have tons of these,so why not.They all have existing roots.I just combined a girdle(ring bark) like I always do for seedling air-layers.
I added some hormone to the normal formula for the resevoir and also dabbed some dip&grow @ 10x strength for about 30 seconds at the ringbark site.
Seems they should stay nice and turgid since there are existing roots.I’m excited....really expecting swelling of the ringbark in a week or less....always does any other time,except these are rather tiny seedling air-layers(and not zelkova).Wish me luck!!!
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cmeg1

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rundown of my fertilizer regime

I get asked alot what to fertilize the plants I sell to keep compact and healthy.

Here it goes:

I use ro water with about 20-50ppm.

seedling stock for seedling cuttings or seedling air layers......to promot rooting I keep nitrogen to potassium ratio a 1:1
.4ec
1/32tsp calmag
1/64tsp mother A
1/64tsp motherB
1/16 tsp vitaminB powder(twice a week)
1/16 humic acid powder
1/16 tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16 tsp kelp powder(rinse if gets on leaves!!!)
1/4 tsp amino acid (tech grade Lglycine,L glutama)
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellerator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder(keeps mineral and organics in suspension).

This is good as it has Aminos for creating calcium ion channels to increase calcium uptake by 1000’s of times!!!!!!!!(Dutch method of fungicide).
Also has the 5:2 ration of humic acid to kelp which help plant produce a plant protection agen ADP? Or something.

the bit of fulvic acid powder increases nutrient uptake ,so can use less salts....should cut strength by about 20-30 percent when using fulvic acid...LESS SALT MORE GORGEOUS WATER!!!!

Early Root starter formula:

Add 1/16tsp mono ammonium phosphate to the seedling formula of .4 ec( low nitrogen &extra phosphate)
Very important to build roots first for 2-3 weeks with very little nitrogen like .4 ec original npk before adding mono ammonium phosphate.
I understand the high ammoniacle nitrogen in the mono ammonium phosphate is spectacular for this very first stage..something about making reaction directly in the first roots!!!


Regular plants(no propogation in mind):
.6-1.2ec throughout veg(gradual)
1/16 tsp calmag
1/8-1/14 tsp Grow A
1/8-1/4 tsp Grow B
1/32tsp potassium powder
1/16 vitamin B powder(twice a week)
1/16 tsp humic acid powder
1/16tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16tsp kelp powder
1/14 tsp amino
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellurator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder

very important when pushing plants with intense light ,co2 or heavy bloom to add the extra potassium...plants depleat it very very quickly and will stunt with a Hidden hunger!!!!

Foliar feeding
Once a week on everything I use a 5:2 ratio of fulvic acid powder /kelp powder on leaves with 1/64 tsp yucca root powder as a surfectant to spread water on to leaf better.An atomizing spray is better on needle trees so it sticks heavily like dew.NO MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK ON LEAVES,ROOTS CAN BE EVERY WATERING THOUGH.Just rinse leaves off when drenching your roots every day.KELP WILL DEFINATELY BURN LEAVES IF FOLIAR FED MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK.

Kelp stops auxin signal in meristem with it’s cytokonins.This makes the plant use its survival mechinism of lateral bud burst(thinks it broke a branch tip).
This happens without pinching terminal.(SHORT STOCKY GROWTH SECRET FOR SURE ON MOST PLANTS).I get lateral buds bursting on 1” branches!!!
Seedlings start backbudding when 2 inches tall!!!!

even every two weeks is good to get this effect.This fokiar treatment is good for mother to have many cut sites on incredibly small plants.This also is good treatment for pre-cuttings and air-layering propogation as the fulvic acid is a low molecular weight humic substance that carries growth promoting elements of the kelp directly into the cell ion in as little as 4 hours!!!!!
Kelp increases photosynthesis anphotosynthesis is the best way for a tree to produce the natural elements the plant needs.This is their natural geneticway of making food.
Nitrogen is a luxury and makes large cells with thin cell walls and the fast growth depletes all the photsynthetic energy that the leaves make...to fast.
Natural photosynthesis makes small cells with thick cel wall( especially with increased calcium from L glycine & L glutamate amino acids)plants are much stronger and pest and disease risistant.
Trees (in my opinion) love this.
Adding co2 puts this photosynthesis process on steroids incresing photosynthesis by 50% with 1000 ppm of co2 fertilization.
 

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cmeg1

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Short internodes and great bud sites from the kelp
 

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cmeg1

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Extras for starter & intense veg
 

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kale

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Lol you make it seem so easy! Jk :D. Def interested in some zelkova or elm when you have them!
 

cmeg1

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Roots Excellerator Silver

not sure,but this product has been said to resolve root rot and prevent it.Needs to be packaged in aluminum bottles.....some places do not stock it because it eats through the bottles....caustic potash? is the secret root rot curing ingredient I believe.
Freakin crazy expensive though....5 ml per gallon last really long time though.
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PieterVE

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rundown of my fertilizer regime

I get asked alot what to fertilize the plants I sell to keep compact and healthy.

Here it goes:

I use ro water with about 20-50ppm.

seedling stock for seedling cuttings or seedling air layers......to promot rooting I keep nitrogen to potassium ratio a 1:1
.4ec
1/32tsp calmag
1/64tsp mother A
1/64tsp motherB
1/16 tsp vitaminB powder(twice a week)
1/16 humic acid powder
1/16 tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16 tsp kelp powder(rinse if gets on leaves!!!)
1/4 tsp amino acid (tech grade Lglycine,L glutama)
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellerator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder(keeps mineral and organics in suspension).

This is good as it has Aminos for creating calcium ion channels to increase calcium uptake by 1000’s of times!!!!!!!!(Dutch method of fungicide).
Also has the 5:2 ration of humic acid to kelp which help plant produce a plant protection agen ADP? Or something.

the bit of fulvic acid powder increases nutrient uptake ,so can use less salts....should cut strength by about 20-30 percent when using fulvic acid...LESS SALT MORE GORGEOUS WATER!!!!

Early Root starter formula:

Add 1/16tsp mono ammonium phosphate to the seedling formula of .4 ec( low nitrogen &extra phosphate)
Very important to build roots first for 2-3 weeks with very little nitrogen like .4 ec original npk before adding mono ammonium phosphate.
I understand the high ammoniacle nitrogen in the mono ammonium phosphate is spectacular for this very first stage..something about making reaction directly in the first roots!!!


Regular plants(no propogation in mind):
.6-1.2ec throughout veg(gradual)
1/16 tsp calmag
1/8-1/14 tsp Grow A
1/8-1/4 tsp Grow B
1/32tsp potassium powder
1/16 vitamin B powder(twice a week)
1/16 tsp humic acid powder
1/16tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16tsp kelp powder
1/14 tsp amino
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellurator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder

very important when pushing plants with intense light ,co2 or heavy bloom to add the extra potassium...plants depleat it very very quickly and will stunt with a Hidden hunger!!!!

Foliar feeding
Once a week on everything I use a 5:2 ratio of fulvic acid powder /kelp powder on leaves with 1/64 tsp yucca root powder as a surfectant to spread water on to leaf better.An atomizing spray is better on needle trees so it sticks heavily like dew.NO MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK ON LEAVES,ROOTS CAN BE EVERY WATERING THOUGH.Just rinse leaves off when drenching your roots every day.KELP WILL DEFINATELY BURN LEAVES IF FOLIAR FED MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK.

Kelp stops auxin signal in meristem with it’s cytokonins.This makes the plant use its survival mechinism of lateral bud burst(thinks it broke a branch tip).
This happens without pinching terminal.(SHORT STOCKY GROWTH SECRET FOR SURE ON MOST PLANTS).I get lateral buds bursting on 1” branches!!!
Seedlings start backbudding when 2 inches tall!!!!

even every two weeks is good to get this effect.This fokiar treatment is good for mother to have many cut sites on incredibly small plants.This also is good treatment for pre-cuttings and air-layering propogation as the fulvic acid is a low molecular weight humic substance that carries growth promoting elements of the kelp directly into the cell ion in as little as 4 hours!!!!!
Kelp increases photosynthesis anphotosynthesis is the best way for a tree to produce the natural elements the plant needs.This is their natural geneticway of making food.
Nitrogen is a luxury and makes large cells with thin cell walls and the fast growth depletes all the photsynthetic energy that the leaves make...to fast.
Natural photosynthesis makes small cells with thick cel wall( especially with increased calcium from L glycine & L glutamate amino acids)plants are much stronger and pest and disease risistant.
Trees (in my opinion) love this.
Adding co2 puts this photosynthesis process on steroids incresing photosynthesis by 50% with 1000 ppm of co2 fertilization.

@cmeg1 maybe noob question, but those volumes, is that per 1 liter of water ? Or per fl.oz ?
 

cmeg1

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@cmeg1 maybe noob question, but those volumes, is that per 1 liter of water ? Or per fl.oz ?
I actually use a 3L spring water jug all the time....can be per 1 gallon jug though.....may be more accurate considering tour water is regular and probably a ppm of 200 or so.
It really is all about the ec.
If using regular water,probably have to cut down the volumes.
The one that should be regarded as very accurate down to the ppm is the 1:1 motherplant formulas.The calmag is ppm calculated with the humic acid and kelp to maintain the 1:1 nitrogen to potassium ratio in the base A&B mother formula.Can just increase or decrease the base a&b,but the calmag and humic and kelp are ppm calculated with a %- ppm calculater I found on the internet.
The EC or PPM is very important in hydroponic fertilization,especially in seedlings and early veg.
If tou water naturally has high ppm,you end up over fertilizing.This is where fulvic acid comes in very handy...just use maximum per gallon 1/4tsp of fulvic acid and cut your nkp salts by 50%!!!!!!

I typically only use 1/16tsp fulvic added to the 1/16tsp humic and then the kelp to have the 5:2 ratio with the kelp,but can definately increase fulvic up to 1/4 tsp I believe.......fulvic is the low molecular weight that carries mineral and plant growth promoting elements into plant cells quite efficiently ,whereas the humic fraction is larger to chelate or hold onto minerals at the root....humic usually does have some fraction of the fulvic along with it.
 

cmeg1

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The soluble nitrogen in the amino is irrelevent as I been told it is in the cell or something and barely available to the plant ,so it will not mess up a 1:1 nitrogen to potassium ratio mother formula.
The 1:1 ratio is useful for cuttings and other rooting propogation or else an unbalance of potassium would locate nitrogen into stem and a unbalance of nitrogen would locate nitrogen to leaves and stem also and slow rooting.

also powders of fulvic acid and kelp are best for foliar as ther is very minimal npk to unbalance this ratio in leaves of propogating material....I dislike any npk on leaves though to be honest....after feeding with my pump sprayer the little seedlings I finish wash the leaves with a 1/32 tsp of humic acid powder into a gallon of ro water....can be applied liberally....humic acid is great additive for ro water as it buffers naturally with the vast array of mineral growth promoting elements to stabilize ph holding power.........and is mild and healthy for leaves...
 

cmeg1

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Atomizing foliar spray for waxy leaves/needles


will be making these cuts of jbp,usually rake a month,but I am fiving extra 5:2 foliar of fulvic acid/kelp double strength to see if I can improve success and speed.
The atomizing spray does a great job.I reapply for about an hour........it really starts to penetrate....I may do it every 5 days being they are waxy seedling needles...the older ones are able to be penetrated with just a normal pump sprayer for some reason.

I even get the stems of these little dudes befor cutting.....a few times ought to make a differance!!!
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cmeg1

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maples

A couple of these were not labled proper when I got them.Oh well...maybe a katsura,orange dream,and ukon.
The shishigashira is unmistakable.I just got that today and bare rooted and really flushed it of everthing growing on the mud it was in...then washed the top in a jet spray of fulvic acid and kelp.
The others are starting to settle from last week.Although dainty little things it is so easy to fall in love with the colors and also to have specimens indoors in a grow tent.It is a joy to have these in lower intensity light,but at the same time a solid 18 hours of it!!!
Fun experimenting.I am pondering airlauering the shishigashira eventually when it regains health in the rootpouch and becomes vigorous and responds to mother fertilizer.Or cuttings if I get long enough soft shoots...definately layer the top off though so it fits....again I say fun fun fun!
So on the journey to make the most pristene maple leaf in a tent with co2and 18 hrs light and all kinds of goodies!
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cmeg1

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removed dome on cloner

I was readingTurbo Klone instructions and they state humidity should be 50-75%.
with dome on I was getting 80% or more.This may be fine for fresh cuts till’ you get root nibs,but since these are seedling air-layers ,I thought it be better to have proper humidity and now is about 55-60%.
Seems cuts with roots be better with proper transpiration in normal humidity and not get deficiencies.Outside of 40-60% plants will not transpire correctly and many mineral are absorbed through transpiration osmoses...or plants will simply overheat if too humid and be malnurished also........
I placed cardboard to block any breeze from ac unit.

At 3 days I am getting the first hints of tiny root nubs it seems.......wish me luck.It would be nice to have Coreana seedlings with good radial roots and very easy to create like this!!
 

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cmeg1

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5 days aeroponic seedling air-layers Coreana Hornbeams.

5 days! I am optomistic these will push roots! Can see nubs and swelling and they seem very happy in the spray of nutrients and all.

Also going to do aeroponic seedling cuttings of Japanese Black Pine. I imagine it will work as long as I thin the neoprene inserts so as to still have very short stems and shoots right on top of roots!
Will proceed this evening!!!
 

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cmeg1

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Also going to do aeroponic seedling cuttings of Japanese Black Pine. I imagine it will work as long as I thin the neoprene inserts
So,yesterday it seemed a good idea,but I ended up just sticking in the propogater tray.Really to me the only advantage of cuttings is for the outcome of a stemless tree.any stem over an inch I would rather just gow the seedling as is.
The neoprene inserts are an inch thick and would need another inch in the cloner.Once I cut the inserts they become useless.
Still worth devising some homemade inserts......make them out of something sturdy........let me know if any ideas ya’ all.They would probably root better aeroponically as it is always the easiest way to go when you start to get results.
 

cmeg1

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Actually just realized this will work in my other cloner with the Hornbeams ,as they sit into as opposed to squeeze into......
 

cmeg1

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We’ll see😌
I snugged it in deep so actually getting moisture clear to the base needles....
I try without the dome and then with.....The room is between 50-65%.Something to be said about not using much more as there is a transitional stress involved with acclimatizing fresh cuts out of a dome.
I like a more proper transpiring if at all possible.....lots of times not an option though.

My spray pump is being timed @ 5 min.on and 30 min. Off
That is best way to controle water overheating.......less u externally rig it.....but temps slightly warm is good.....up to 75f is safe ......any more and you will need to add sterilant.......71-72 is my favorite....I use Hygrozyme enzymatic.


Honestly this is just straight up easier!!!
Roots tend to be more vigorous with aeroponics early on.Look at the zelkova!
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