Fagus Crenata - improving half a poor nebari

[Paulpash]

Hi,

I removed this from the growing bed about 3 years ago and it's now been in it's pot 2 years. However, it has a poor back side nebari and definitely needs improving - I have a deeper pot it can go into to bury the roots.

How can I get it to throw roots further back to correct the obvious flaws? Is ring bark removal too aggressive or should I go for the tourniquet method and wrap some thick gauge wire round it? Next year the top growth will be left alone - hopefully this will energise the roots.

If anyone has a 'plan' to tackle the nebari I'm all ears

Ugly back side roots





A bit better at the front view





A poor shot of the front - sorry about the shadows - taken in the garage

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I had no success air-layering my F. crenata, and don't think these roots are bad enough to risk it. If an air-layer attempt fails, the tree is ruined for your lifetime, and good luck finding a replacement; they're rare...at least here in the US, maybe not in the UK?

If this was mine, I'd just start shortening the heavy roots during the next few transplantings and I think you'll be left with rootage that will improve nicely in time.

 

[Paulpash]

Don't want to make you jealous but I have 4 on their way to me now - one is a special type of Fagus Crenata, it's called Mount Fuji and has a slightly smaller leaf and a twiggier habit. That being said I still don't want to waste a potentially good piece of material so I guess the air layer option is out and the slow n steady cut back is the way to go. They are rare though - I had to order them by mail - none are available in your normal UK garden centre.

I'll let it grow freely this year and pack the pot full of roots so I can work them next year - cheers Brian.

PS Your blog and work on your own J W B made me seek out and work this species. Thank you for your excellent photo journals

 

[edprocoat]

I had no success air-layering my F. crenata, and don't think these roots are bad enough to risk it. If an air-layer attempt fails, the tree is ruined for your lifetime, and good luck finding a replacement; they're rare...at least here in the US, maybe not in the UK?

If this was mine, I'd just start shortening the heavy roots during the next few transplantings and I think you'll be left with rootage that will improve nicely in time.

Brian I have never grown a Beech. That said I have had luck with root grafts on Ficus and Chinese Elm varieties over the years and I have seen many who have root grafted Trident Maples too. Would this be a viable method for this Beech, or is there a reason not to try it?

ed

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Brian I have never grown a Beech. That said I have had luck with root grafts on Ficus and Chinese Elm varieties over the years and I have seen many who have root grafted Trident Maples too. Would this be a viable method for this Beech, or is there a reason not to try it?

ed

Yes, unlike the trees you listed, J. beech takes absolutely FOREVER to heal. To get a graft to take, the scion and and stock need to knit quickly, then pile up callus tissue. Here is a trunk-chop I made on a J. beech in spring '06, and the same spot 9 years later; not halfway closed, and I've worked on the callus at least once a year.

Even if you could find seedlings to thread-graft, due to the buds' shape, is unlikely you could get one threaded through the trunk/base without stripping the buds off and still have contact from scion to stock.

 

[edprocoat]

Yes, unlike the trees you listed, J. beech takes absolutely FOREVER to heal. To get a graft to take, the scion and and stock need to knit quickly, then pile up callus tissue. Here is a trunk-chop I made on a J. beech in spring '06, and the same spot 9 years later; not halfway closed, and I've worked on the callus at least once a year.

Even if you could find seedlings to thread-graft, due to the buds' shape, is unlikely you could get one threaded through the trunk/base without stripping the buds off and still have contact from scion to stock.

Thanks for the info, Elms and Ficus do grow fast and I hear Tridents do to. That scar on your Beech after 9 years tells the story. I have a Tiger Bark Ficus I chopped after the top dying from the cold last spring and its about 3/4 's healed over now. By this time next year it should be completely healed over and the trunk was over an inch wide.

ed

 

[Aiki_Joker]

Yes, unlike the trees you listed, J. beech takes absolutely FOREVER to heal. To get a graft to take, the scion and and stock need to knit quickly, then pile up callus tissue. Here is a trunk-chop I made on a J. beech in spring '06, and the same spot 9 years later; not halfway closed, and I've worked on the callus at least once a year.

Even if you could find seedlings to thread-graft, due to the buds' shape, is unlikely you could get one threaded through the trunk/base without stripping the buds off and still have contact from scion to stock.

There is a good threading technique I used with string for huge beech buds Brian (https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/beech-sylvatica-hornbeam-betulus-thread-grafting.32694/). All buds that passed through survived the first season's growth. It took a long time to do carefully though. This is Sylvatica too so very large buds! I'll make sure the thread is updated soon (once the leaves drop for winter 2018). All evidence points to a successful first season endeavour for union! There are some big differences between the beech and hornbeam that I threaded. There may be significant thickening advantages if one was to root graft a beech successfully. It looks like it would be easy to cause imbalances in thickness though. More to come once I get the thread updated. Of course EU beech is somewhat different (but it's still diffuse porous like the Crenata). This thread was on the upper trunk in a high traffic area for nutrient transport. The tree looks to have rerouted significant transport channels around the graft injury resulting in heavy thickening. Unfortunately this result escaped my foresight I did not measure the girth. However, there is a definite muscular bulge that wasn't there before (probably around 2mm of wood laid down on one side in one season!... figures to come soon). I would estimate that photos and updates on this thread will be available in the next month or so! Cant wait for people's comments and theories on what happened. I'm stoked!

 

[Potawatomi13]

Change of angle to raise poorer roots to surface could help. Bigger problem is reverse/lack of taper at several points.

 

[win320]

4 on their way to me now - one is a special type of Fagus Crenata, it's called Mount Fuji and has a slightly smaller leaf and a twiggier habit. That being said I still don't want to waste a potentially good piece of material so I guess the air layer option is out and the slow n steady cut back is the way to go. They are rare though - I had to order them by mail - none are available in your normal UK garden centre.

Hi @Paulpash
could you please post an update on the progress of the beautiful F. Crenata.

Also could you please mention the source, I am interested in purchasing Fagus Crenata.

Thanks a lot

 

[Paulpash]

Hi @Paulpash
could you please post an update on the progress of the beautiful F. Crenata.

Also could you please mention the source, I am interested in purchasing Fagus Crenata.

Thanks a lot

It's fattening up at the moment in the ground so it is a big ball of leaves. Bluebell Arboretum is where I ordered some raw material. Go to Greenwood Bonsai if you want more developed material.

 

[win320]

Thanks for the reply @Paulpash
I have checked Bluebell Arboretum, seems they don't have it at the moment. I will enquire over the phone.
Thanks

 

[bwaynef]

Instead of thread-grafting, could roots be approach-grafted? (Sounds like this might be an answer to a problem that isn't anymore though.)