Fall branch selection on a Korean hornbeam

Victorim

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Thought I would take a pic or two of this as I was looking forward to doing it. This looked like one of the more developed trees I have on the benches, and many are raw trunks. The only work the Hornbeam has had was two hedge cuttings over the summer. So tonight was the night and in he came :
IMG_20171202_205743.jpg

Took a good while to carefuly get rid of the remaining leaves:
IMG_20171202_214945.jpg

And then started selection work... shortly after and midway, feelings of dread and self doubt began creeping in. Maybe a result of self taught..

IMG_20171202_222629.jpg

Wire in the spring :)

Don`t pull any punches guys :p
 

Tieball

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The best bonsai in this tree is the bottom half of this one for sure.
However, be careful to not remove all the ramification on hornbeam. They’re not as vigorous as maples.
View attachment 169356
This is a good idea. My first reaction was to shorten the tree also. I was looking at a chop keeping that branch just above where you chopped. That branch that appears to be upright and has a smaller branch to the left. I wondered if the top branch, in your pruned version, would be able to gently be moved more vertical over time. @Victorim will be the one to know.
My thoughts in rough example...
 

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Pachycaul

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Have to agree with the higher chop point, the upright branch could smooth the taper for an improved trunk. It also appears (from the photos at least) to produce a smaller scar than the lower cut location.
 

Eric Group

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Ok, don’t want us to pull punches?

1- I think you removed way too much. Would have looked better with a “hedge” pruning to reign in the overgrown shoots and retain the ramification. Looks like you set back the tree’s development 3-5+ years.

2- I immediately thought the same thing as the people who said it needs to be shortened, and With the movement in the upper part of the tree I’d recommend an air layer as well. Brian mentioned they aren’t as vigorous as some trees, I have found this to be the case both with top growth and root growth when propagating. You CAN air layer them but it takes a while and the new roots don’t grow as fast or hold as strong a Japanese Maple would after being layered.
 

Victorim

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Ok, don’t want us to pull punches?

1- I think you removed way too much. Would have looked better with a “hedge” pruning to reign in the overgrown shoots and retain the ramification. Looks like you set back the tree’s development 3-5+ years.

2- I immediately thought the same thing as the people who said it needs to be shortened, and With the movement in the upper part of the tree I’d recommend an air layer as well. Brian mentioned they aren’t as vigorous as some trees, I have found this to be the case both with top growth and root growth when propagating. You CAN air layer them but it takes a while and the new roots don’t grow as fast or hold as strong a Japanese Maple would after being layered.

Thanks Eric. Hopefully I won't regret the removal. Was trying to get rid off growth from the same points on the trunk and crossing / up growth. Will look into the layering.
 

Zach Smith

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Pay close attention to Brian's suggestion. Everything above the chop point he suggests is unsuited to a workable composition. I'm not experienced with Korean hornbeam, but whatever you need to do to get rid of that upper part of the tree while preserving the health of the tree, do it!
 
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