Fertilization guide by species?

[badatusernames]

So far in my bonsai journey, I've really only ever used Biogold. I want that to change this year, as I know when and how you fertilize specific species can have a large impact, and it sounds as though introducing a liquid fertilization routine would also be beneficial.

Are there any existing guides on a species-by-species basis available online that outlines fertilization routines?

 

[Shibui]

Trees are trees and roots are roots. Apart from a very few species that have specific nutrient requirements most trees use the same nutrients in more or less the same ratios. All my trees get the same fertilizer on the same timing.
The real difference in fertilizer and applications is between trees that are growing and developing and those that are reaching desired maturity and development. younger stock benefit from plenty of fert but reduced nutrients can help maintain smaller shoots, leaves and internodes on more established bonsai.

Getting even 2 bonsai growers to agree on something like soil or fert would be a miracle. Having it written down for a range of species just is not going to happen and if it does it is just one person's opinions anyway.....

 

[badatusernames]

Trees are trees and roots are roots. Apart from a very few species that have specific nutrient requirements most trees use the same nutrients in more or less the same ratios. All my trees get the same fertilizer on the same timing.
The real difference in fertilizer and applications is between trees that are growing and developing and those that are reaching desired maturity and development. younger stock benefit from plenty of fert but reduced nutrients can help maintain smaller shoots, leaves and internodes on more established bonsai.

Getting even 2 bonsai growers to agree on something like soil or fert would be a miracle. Having it written down for a range of species just is not going to happen and if it does it is just one person's opinions anyway.....

that’s fair. the “ultimate bonsai book” advertised on the home page of this sites comes close as a physical reference to use as a starting point, but it isn’t necessarily complete. a good example is that it says that chojubai should be soaked in “a solution” while repotting, but not what the solution is.

I figured based on other threads this would be a long shot, but I figured maybe someone had put something together to use as a jumping off point. Or at least around timing, like I know JMs get fertilized different than juniper.

oh well, more digging to do!

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I use what's cheap and organic for general fertilization.
I have a bit more expensive all round complete chemical nutrient powder, and separate components, in case there's a shortage somewhere in the spectrum.

When you dig in literature, it's wise to check out what scientists have optimized for tissue culture. All these formulas are species specific and experimentally designed on what's most effective.
Murashige and Skoog nutrients are a general mixture for instance, on which a lot of general purpose chemical nutrient mixtures are based. Variations get their own name, it should be relatively easy to find out the composition that works best for every plant.
But the question you should ask yourself is: If something works well, should you spend 4+ hours per tree on researching and formulating and composing something slightly better?

 

[leatherback]

But the question you should ask yourself is: If something works well, should you spend 4+ hours per tree on researching and formulating and composing something slightly better?

And to build on that.. Is all other care optimized. Often adjustment of sun exposure, watering and pruning timings can have very big effects as well. Fine-tuning the last 5% you can do with fertilizer optimization of doubling health by switching to another water source / substrate / position?

 

[Bnana]

As long as a tree gets what it needs and total concentration of salts is low enough to avoid osmotic issues you're fine. This is a huge bandwidth. As you flush the soil when watering anyway accumulation is not an issue.

Only when you want to limit growth through restricting N-availability you have to start fine-tuning.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Most all my trees get BioGold. Then every two weeks...Peter's 20-20-20. My Satsuki get half strength of that...per Don Blackmond's regiment he shared when I purchased a Satsuki from him. Then once a month fish emulsion on an opposing week as Peter's. (My rabbit foots fern also gets half strength:companion plant.) Flowering trees get a flowering fertilizer mixed for them...besides the BioGold which sits in the pot everyone has their own regiment. I use dynamite for my tigerbark as per Adam Lavigne 's request...since it came from him...Its a small thing I can do out of respect. But I also throw liquid mix when I'm offering it to the trees.

I know some who only offer organic poo balls and fish emulsion. With great success as well... I think ones fall into a regiment of ones they respect. Or for a few that happens.

I know Jonas said my regiment would work great on the pine I just received which came neglected .

 

[HorseloverFat]

I, personally, use fish emulsion for EVERYTHING.. and granular for meeting specific needs.

I also found it difficult to find a comprehensive fertilization “guide” for containerized tree and shrubs... so I just check the “nursery schedules” of LOCAL places.. find out what they’ve had success doing.. and alter it somewhat to my needs.

 

[badatusernames]

So i think where i may be getting hung up is reading books and sites talking about when to start and stop fertilizing JMs / junipers / pines. It sounded like there are critical times that impact internode length for JMs, potentially dramatically, for example. I don’t really know if it’s critical, or if it’s just another layer of refinement for high level bonsai.

people’s routines seems fairly straightforward if i’m reading correctly

 

[badatusernames]

I, personally, use fish emulsion for EVERYTHING.. and granular for meeting specific needs.

I also found it difficult to find a comprehensive fertilization “guide” for containerized tree and shrubs... so I just check the “nursery schedules” of LOCAL places.. find out what they’ve had success doing.. and alter it somewhat to my needs.

oh that’s an interesting idea as well!

 

[Boscology]

Ive been using Biogold in addition to fish emulsion every few weeks in the spring. The fish stuff costs a fraction of the imported Biogold, but smells awful and attracts bugs and animals after use.

Last time I ordered Biogold I forgot I accidentally sent it to my business P.O. at a shipping store. They called me up and said I had an international package but I had forgot I was expecting anything so I asked what was on the customs declaration and it said "Extruded Chocolate Product" and I was even more confused. I wonder if they "fudge" the declaration because shipping fertilizer would be costlier.

 

[cmeg1]

SO THIS IS FOR PINE ONLY!!!!

EVERY SPECIES IS DIFFERENT NOW!!!!!!

jk

rundown of my fertilizer regime

I get asked alot what to fertilize the plants I sell to keep compact and healthy.

Here it goes:

I use ro water with about 20-50ppm.

seedling stock for seedling cuttings or seedling air layers......to promot rooting I keep nitrogen to potassium ratio a 1:1
.4ec
1/32tsp calmag
1/64tsp mother A
1/64tsp motherB
1/16 tsp vitaminB powder(twice a week)
1/16 humic acid powder
1/16 tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16 tsp kelp powder(rinse if gets on leaves!!!)
1/4 tsp amino acid (tech grade Lglycine,L glutama)
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellerator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder(keeps mineral and organics in suspension).

This is good as it has Aminos for creating calcium ion channels to increase calcium uptake by 1000’s of times!!!!!!!!(Dutch method of fungicide).
Also has the 5:2 ration of humic acid to kelp which help plant produce a plant protection agen ADP? Or something.

the bit of fulvic acid powder increases nutrient uptake ,so can use less salts....should cut strength by about 20-30 percent when using fulvic acid...LESS SALT MORE GORGEOUS WATER!!!!

Early Root starter formula:

Add 1/16tsp mono ammonium phosphate to the seedling formula of .4 ec( low nitrogen &extra phosphate)
Very important to build roots first for 2-3 weeks with very little nitrogen like .4 ec original npk before adding mono ammonium phosphate.
I understand the high ammoniacle nitrogen in the mono ammonium phosphate is spectacular for this very first stage..something about making reaction directly in the first roots!!!


Regular plants(no propogation in mind):
.6-1.2ec throughout veg(gradual)
1/16 tsp calmag
1/8-1/14 tsp Grow A
1/8-1/4 tsp Grow B
1/32tsp potassium powder
1/16 vitamin B powder(twice a week)
1/16 tsp humic acid powder
1/16tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16tsp kelp powder
1/14 tsp amino
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellurator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder

very important when pushing plants with intense light ,co2 or heavy bloom to add the extra potassium...plants depleat it very very quickly and will stunt with a Hidden hunger!!!!

Foliar feeding
Once a week on everything I use a 5:2 ratio of fulvic acid powder /kelp powder on leaves with 1/64 tsp yucca root powder as a surfectant to spread water on to leaf better.An atomizing spray is better on needle trees so it sticks heavily like dew.NO MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK ON LEAVES,ROOTS CAN BE EVERY WATERING THOUGH.Just rinse leaves off when drenching your roots every day.KELP WILL DEFINATELY BURN LEAVES IF FOLIAR FED MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK.

Kelp stops auxin signal in meristem with it’s cytokonins.This makes the plant use its survival mechinism of lateral bud burst(thinks it broke a branch tip).
This happens without pinching terminal.(SHORT STOCKY GROWTH SECRET FOR SURE ON MOST PLANTS).I get lateral buds bursting on 1” branches!!!
Seedlings start backbudding when 2 inches tall!!!!

even every two weeks is good to get this effect.This fokiar treatment is good for mother to have many cut sites on incredibly small plants.This also is good treatment for pre-cuttings and air-layering propogation as the fulvic acid is a low molecular weight humic substance that carries growth promoting elements of the kelp directly into the cell ion in as little as 4 hours!!!!!
Kelp increases photosynthesis anphotosynthesis is the best way for a tree to produce the natural elements the plant needs.This is their natural geneticway of making food.
Nitrogen is a luxury and makes large cells with thin cell walls and the fast growth depletes all the photsynthetic energy that the leaves make...to fast.
Natural photosynthesis makes small cells with thick cel wall( especially with increased calcium from L glycine & L glutamate amino acids)plants are much stronger and pest and disease risistant.
Trees (in my opinion) love this.
Adding co2 puts this photosynthesis process on steroids incresing photosynthesis by 50% with 1000 ppm of co2 fertilization.

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[badatusernames]

SO THIS IS FOR PINE ONLY!!!!

EVERY SPECIES IS DIFFERENT NOW!!!!!!

jk

rundown of my fertilizer regime

I get asked alot what to fertilize the plants I sell to keep compact and healthy.

Here it goes:

I use ro water with about 20-50ppm.

seedling stock for seedling cuttings or seedling air layers......to promot rooting I keep nitrogen to potassium ratio a 1:1
.4ec
1/32tsp calmag
1/64tsp mother A
1/64tsp motherB
1/16 tsp vitaminB powder(twice a week)
1/16 humic acid powder
1/16 tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16 tsp kelp powder(rinse if gets on leaves!!!)
1/4 tsp amino acid (tech grade Lglycine,L glutama)
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellerator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder(keeps mineral and organics in suspension).

This is good as it has Aminos for creating calcium ion channels to increase calcium uptake by 1000’s of times!!!!!!!!(Dutch method of fungicide).
Also has the 5:2 ration of humic acid to kelp which help plant produce a plant protection agen ADP? Or something.

the bit of fulvic acid powder increases nutrient uptake ,so can use less salts....should cut strength by about 20-30 percent when using fulvic acid...LESS SALT MORE GORGEOUS WATER!!!!

Early Root starter formula:

Add 1/16tsp mono ammonium phosphate to the seedling formula of .4 ec( low nitrogen &extra phosphate)
Very important to build roots first for 2-3 weeks with very little nitrogen like .4 ec original npk before adding mono ammonium phosphate.
I understand the high ammoniacle nitrogen in the mono ammonium phosphate is spectacular for this very first stage..something about making reaction directly in the first roots!!!


Regular plants(no propogation in mind):
.6-1.2ec throughout veg(gradual)
1/16 tsp calmag
1/8-1/14 tsp Grow A
1/8-1/4 tsp Grow B
1/32tsp potassium powder
1/16 vitamin B powder(twice a week)
1/16 tsp humic acid powder
1/16tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16tsp kelp powder
1/14 tsp amino
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellurator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder

very important when pushing plants with intense light ,co2 or heavy bloom to add the extra potassium...plants depleat it very very quickly and will stunt with a Hidden hunger!!!!

Foliar feeding
Once a week on everything I use a 5:2 ratio of fulvic acid powder /kelp powder on leaves with 1/64 tsp yucca root powder as a surfectant to spread water on to leaf better.An atomizing spray is better on needle trees so it sticks heavily like dew.NO MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK ON LEAVES,ROOTS CAN BE EVERY WATERING THOUGH.Just rinse leaves off when drenching your roots every day.KELP WILL DEFINATELY BURN LEAVES IF FOLIAR FED MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK.

Kelp stops auxin signal in meristem with it’s cytokonins.This makes the plant use its survival mechinism of lateral bud burst(thinks it broke a branch tip).
This happens without pinching terminal.(SHORT STOCKY GROWTH SECRET FOR SURE ON MOST PLANTS).I get lateral buds bursting on 1” branches!!!
Seedlings start backbudding when 2 inches tall!!!!

even every two weeks is good to get this effect.This fokiar treatment is good for mother to have many cut sites on incredibly small plants.This also is good treatment for pre-cuttings and air-layering propogation as the fulvic acid is a low molecular weight humic substance that carries growth promoting elements of the kelp directly into the cell ion in as little as 4 hours!!!!!
Kelp increases photosynthesis anphotosynthesis is the best way for a tree to produce the natural elements the plant needs.This is their natural geneticway of making food.
Nitrogen is a luxury and makes large cells with thin cell walls and the fast growth depletes all the photsynthetic energy that the leaves make...to fast.
Natural photosynthesis makes small cells with thick cel wall( especially with increased calcium from L glycine & L glutamate amino acids)plants are much stronger and pest and disease risistant.
Trees (in my opinion) love this.
Adding co2 puts this photosynthesis process on steroids incresing photosynthesis by 50% with 1000 ppm of co2 fertilization.

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Wow, thank you, that is fantastic info!

 

[quietobserver]

So far in my bonsai journey, I've really only ever used Biogold. I want that to change this year, as I know when and how you fertilize specific species can have a large impact, and it sounds as though introducing a liquid fertilization routine would also be beneficial.

Are there any existing guides on a species-by-species basis available online that outlines fertilization routines?

Feeding, Substrate and Watering - English

Feeding, Substrate and Watering Methods of Walter Pall (edited by Victrinia Ridgeway) I was asked to write a paragraph on the 'feeding of...

walter-pall-bonsai.blogspot.com

 

[Iowa newbie]

SO THIS IS FOR PINE ONLY!!!!

EVERY SPECIES IS DIFFERENT NOW!!!!!!

jk

rundown of my fertilizer regime

I get asked alot what to fertilize the plants I sell to keep compact and healthy.

Here it goes:

I use ro water with about 20-50ppm.

seedling stock for seedling cuttings or seedling air layers......to promot rooting I keep nitrogen to potassium ratio a 1:1
.4ec
1/32tsp calmag
1/64tsp mother A
1/64tsp motherB
1/16 tsp vitaminB powder(twice a week)
1/16 humic acid powder
1/16 tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16 tsp kelp powder(rinse if gets on leaves!!!)
1/4 tsp amino acid (tech grade Lglycine,L glutama)
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellerator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder(keeps mineral and organics in suspension).

This is good as it has Aminos for creating calcium ion channels to increase calcium uptake by 1000’s of times!!!!!!!!(Dutch method of fungicide).
Also has the 5:2 ration of humic acid to kelp which help plant produce a plant protection agen ADP? Or something.

the bit of fulvic acid powder increases nutrient uptake ,so can use less salts....should cut strength by about 20-30 percent when using fulvic acid...LESS SALT MORE GORGEOUS WATER!!!!

Early Root starter formula:

Add 1/16tsp mono ammonium phosphate to the seedling formula of .4 ec( low nitrogen &extra phosphate)
Very important to build roots first for 2-3 weeks with very little nitrogen like .4 ec original npk before adding mono ammonium phosphate.
I understand the high ammoniacle nitrogen in the mono ammonium phosphate is spectacular for this very first stage..something about making reaction directly in the first roots!!!


Regular plants(no propogation in mind):
.6-1.2ec throughout veg(gradual)
1/16 tsp calmag
1/8-1/14 tsp Grow A
1/8-1/4 tsp Grow B
1/32tsp potassium powder
1/16 vitamin B powder(twice a week)
1/16 tsp humic acid powder
1/16tsp fulvic acid powder
1/16tsp kelp powder
1/14 tsp amino
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
.5 ml Roots Excellurator
1/64 tsp yucca root powder

very important when pushing plants with intense light ,co2 or heavy bloom to add the extra potassium...plants depleat it very very quickly and will stunt with a Hidden hunger!!!!

Foliar feeding
Once a week on everything I use a 5:2 ratio of fulvic acid powder /kelp powder on leaves with 1/64 tsp yucca root powder as a surfectant to spread water on to leaf better.An atomizing spray is better on needle trees so it sticks heavily like dew.NO MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK ON LEAVES,ROOTS CAN BE EVERY WATERING THOUGH.Just rinse leaves off when drenching your roots every day.KELP WILL DEFINATELY BURN LEAVES IF FOLIAR FED MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK.

Kelp stops auxin signal in meristem with it’s cytokonins.This makes the plant use its survival mechinism of lateral bud burst(thinks it broke a branch tip).
This happens without pinching terminal.(SHORT STOCKY GROWTH SECRET FOR SURE ON MOST PLANTS).I get lateral buds bursting on 1” branches!!!
Seedlings start backbudding when 2 inches tall!!!!

even every two weeks is good to get this effect.This fokiar treatment is good for mother to have many cut sites on incredibly small plants.This also is good treatment for pre-cuttings and air-layering propogation as the fulvic acid is a low molecular weight humic substance that carries growth promoting elements of the kelp directly into the cell ion in as little as 4 hours!!!!!
Kelp increases photosynthesis anphotosynthesis is the best way for a tree to produce the natural elements the plant needs.This is their natural geneticway of making food.
Nitrogen is a luxury and makes large cells with thin cell walls and the fast growth depletes all the photsynthetic energy that the leaves make...to fast.
Natural photosynthesis makes small cells with thick cel wall( especially with increased calcium from L glycine & L glutamate amino acids)plants are much stronger and pest and disease risistant.
Trees (in my opinion) love this.
Adding co2 puts this photosynthesis process on steroids incresing photosynthesis by 50% with 1000 ppm of co2 fertilization.

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This is like drinking water from a fire hose in my pea sized pleb brain incredible amount of information

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Feeding, Substrate and Watering - English

Feeding, Substrate and Watering Methods of Walter Pall (edited by Victrinia Ridgeway) I was asked to write a paragraph on the 'feeding of...

walter-pall-bonsai.blogspot.com

If there is one thing to learn about this topic, I’d say it’s @Walter Pall ’s “Triangle”. (My adopted name for his concept - sorry Walter if you don’t like the name or if my description is off! )

...The linkage between watering amount /frequency, substrate type/porosity, and fertilizer type/amount.

It would really pay to watch his YouTube videos about this topic a couple times after you read the suggested article @quietobserver referenced. At least to capture what a respected bonsai artist says on this subject.

Doesn’t mean you have to agree, just breathe it in and cogitate on it.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Bnana]

I do like the idea of Walter Pall as well. This is based on the idea that the tree will pick up what it needs. The only way you can really change this is by under-fertilizing (starving) a tree.
All these weird additives and odd nutrient ratios are more marketing than horticulture.
That a century ago organic cakes were the most convenient way to fertilize in Japan doesn't mean it is the best and we need to import Japanese stuff. N P and K are N P and K.
A standard liquid fertilizer (with micronutrients) will suffice for a fraction of the cost. This is easier to use, doesn't stink and you do not need those ugly fertilizer cups.

Don't forget that Bonsai fertilizer is a market and there are companies that want you to buy their expensive bullshit. If you also want their bottle of triple distilled sea-anemone juice because they claim it will help you get better autumn colours they are happy to sell it to you.