Jzack605
Chumono
I've started fertilizing all my evergreens, and whips. I have a Dogwood that I chopped and it's starting to show buds. Do you all fertilize chopped trees? Was done this Late winter.
I've started fertilizing all my evergreens, and whips. I have a Dogwood that I chopped and it's starting to show buds. Do you all fertilize chopped trees? Was done this Late winter.
Chopped trees tend to explode with long shoots/internodes.
More (nitrogen than is already in the soil/substrate) just makes matters worse, so you want to starve it for a while.
IOW, no fertilizer for a while.
Of course, if you don't want to keep any of these (i.e., chop them off and start over later) fertilize with abandon.
Say, @garywood, do you have a physilological explanation of why abundant nitrogen = long internodes?
How much nitrogen is really available in bonsai soil? (Which it’s in)Chopped trees tend to explode with long shoots/internodes.
More (nitrogen than is already in the soil/substrate) just makes matters worse, so you want to starve it for a while.
IOW, no fertilizer for a while.
Of course, if you don't want to keep any of these (i.e., chop them off and start over later) fertilize with abandon.
Say, @garywood, do you have a physilological explanation of why abundant nitrogen = long internodes?
First, the proper term is drastically pruned not chopped. After it shows vigorous growth then fertilize with a high nitrogen mix.I've started fertilizing all my evergreens, and whips. I have a Dogwood that I chopped and it's starting to show buds. Do you all fertilize chopped trees? Was done this Late winter.
None. That's why we fertilize.How much nitrogen is really available in bonsai soil? (Which it’s in)
What you want to happen is have vigorous early growth to thicken new branching. Wire them down in late spring and fertilize heavily. Next year, prune it for structure and repeat the process. In a few years of this you with have strong tapered branching. After that, go for ramification.Zack, Dogwood, genetically have long internodes. Early fertilizing encourage longer internode length, so, if that is a concern wait until growth is hardened.
Chopped trees tend to explode with long shoots/internodes.
More (nitrogen than is already in the soil/substrate) just makes matters worse, so you want to starve it for a while.
IOW, no fertilizer for a while.
Of course, if you don't want to keep any of these (i.e., chop them off and start over later) fertilize with abandon.
Say, @garywood, do you have a physilological explanation of why abundant nitrogen = long internodes?
We're kinda hijacking @Jzack605's thread, but so it goes ...Higher nitrogen content tends to improve water permeability (urea does that, cells stretch more if they contain more water)
Cytokinins cause bud release and are often represented to signal plentiful nitrogen or 'lots of roots here'. But most notably cytokinin and auxin are antogonists - one opposes the effect of the other. I have verified this for myself by spraying an artificial cytokinin (BA/BAP) right after bud release. Nodes are indeed shorted by this added cytokinin and the effect can be quite dramatic (and can lead to lots of undesirable problems as well).Naught, anecdotal, and a slight bit empirical ;-) Higher ratio of cytokinin. Dogwood and most fruit tees react this way if only minor pruning. Water sprouts, suckers, name your poison.
Granular organic fert was put down. Is it best at this point to wait a few weeks before changing to liquid?You can fertilizer them with low doses. Liquid fertilizer will be more advisable.
Granular Organic slowly releases into the soil over the time. If accumulation of organic material not causes drainage problem in bonsai soil, you can use it. You can use liquid fertilizer as it will be consumed by plants more readily than compared to organic more slow releasing.Granular organic fert was put down. Is it best at this point to wait a few weeks before changing to liquid?