Fertilizer chart thread...can't seem to locate it

[Cadillactaste]

I thought I had bookmarked the thread that had the fertilizer chart showing what each part did for your tree. But...apparently I only got as far as thinking of bookmarking it. Because it is no where in my bonsai file.

If you were the poster if that guild photo. Could you attach either the link it is found in...or the chart itself. (Much appreciated)

Or...if ones recall where it is...if you could share the link to that title thread where it was posted...I would also appreciate it.

THANKS!

 

[Poink88]

Is it the post #15 here?

http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?14469-is-this-Rhododendron-worth-it

 

[Cadillactaste]

Is it the post #15 here?

http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?14469-is-this-Rhododendron-worth-it

Yes! Thanks so much

 

[Cadillactaste]

Thanks! I wanted to see the chart...trying to find the right fert. for the wisteria.
Was considering this...
http://www.growerstrust.com/product...705&gpla=pla&gclid=CMvN9K2p4r0CFY17fgodELIA8A

After reading this...
The following practices may help induce non-blooming vines to flower: a heavy application of superphosphate (0-20-0) in early spring (3#-5# per 100 square feet) severe pruning of new growth in late spring or early summer root pruning in late fall
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1246.html

 

[Cadillactaste]

But this is more balanced...like Paul suggested.
http://www.growerstrust.com/collections/plant-fertilizers/products/potassium-pro

 

[Poink88]

You need a good balanced NPK. Balanced doesn't mean equal amount either .

In general, 3:1:2 ratio (i.e, 24, 8, 16) is a good "balanced" fertilizer for me... BUT I am not after flowers and fruits, rather the general health of my trees.

Read more about ion (cation or anion) exchange (refer to Paul and Smoke's posts about humates )

Note that putting more doesn't mean your plant can or will use it...most will probably be washed away or wasted. You want to make sure what you are putting is in useable form.

 

[Cadillactaste]

You need a good balanced NPK. Balanced doesn't mean equal amount either .

In general, 3:1:2 ratio (i.e, 24, 8, 16) is a good "balanced" fertilizer for me... BUT I am not after flowers and fruits, rather the general health of my trees.

Read more about ion (cation or anion) exchange (refer to Paul and Smoke's posts about humates )

Note that putting more doesn't mean your plant can or will use it...most will probably be washed away or wasted. You want to make sure what you are putting is in useable form.

Wisteria is different than most...the produce Nitrogen in their root system. Paul commented about it on my thread of the wisteria's buds swelling. This fertilizer would be for only that tree.

My bottlebrush I was told to do equal parts of all...by the nursery I got it from. So each tree sometimes comes with it's own needs.

 

[Poink88]

Wisteria is different than most...the produce Nitrogen in their root system. Paul commented about it on my thread of the wisteria's buds swelling. This fertilizer would be for only that tree.

My bottlebrush I was told to do equal parts of all...by the nursery I got it from. So each tree sometimes comes with it's own needs.

Didn't know wisteria is nitrogen fixing (lots of them are). In that case go ahead.

BTW, you know the nitrogen fixing bacteria resides in root nodes right? Do not removed those nodes when you repot.

 

[GrimLore]

The 0-20-26 or similar would do if you feel a need to fertilize at all. If you do I would only recommend once in the Spring for Wisteria. They need Sun and Water...

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

Didn't know wisteria is nitrogen fixing (lots of them are). In that case go ahead.

BTW, you know the nitrogen fixing bacteria resides in root nodes right? Do not removed those nodes when you repot.

Thanks for the heads up...

The reason behind this thread is to decide which to get, I know Paul mentioned a balance between the two. Which makes 0-20-26 seem more appropriate for the wisteria. The Ohio article (my zone basically) says...in spring do 0-20-0 for wisteria...so the 0-20-5 seems more appropriate.

Trying to decide which route to go...the 0-20-26 would help it's defenses up against things that come against it it seems...though in the Ohio article...nothing is mentioned as to what to feed it later...so do they only feed 0-20-0 all the time to wisteria? Nothing in the fall that is different?

 

[GrimLore]

The 0-20-26 or similar would do if you feel a need to fertilize at all. If you do I would only recommend once in the Spring for Wisteria. They need Sun and Water...

Grimmy

*cough* You may have missed that.

 

[Cadillactaste]

*cough* You may have missed that.

I did miss it...Paul fertilizes his through fall...to help ensure blooms. Thanks for the "bump" of your comment...sorry I over looked it.

 

[GrimLore]

I did miss it...Paul fertilizes his through fall...to help ensure blooms. Thanks for the "bump" of your comment...sorry I over looked it.

No problem ever, where is Paul located?

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

No problem ever, where is Paul located?

Grimmy

In the UK...yeah...different variation to our horticultural I would imagine. But, if he's stimulating the growth of blooms...stored in the roots. Wouldn't it not matter where the tree was located? This is where I teeter totter...and waiver. Because we all struggle for blooms over here it seems. Not guaranteed blooms. He's got it down to a science...and gets blooms each year other than when he repots.

 

[GrimLore]

He might have to fertilize throughout his short growing season to get normal growth. What I am thinking based on what I have seen and done if you fertilize like that where you live you will more then likely land up with a lot of spindly weak growth at seasons end. More cutting - more scarring... Just a caution is all, hate to see you get frustrated as it is a nice plant!

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

He might have to fertilize throughout his short growing season to get normal growth. What I am thinking based on what I have seen and done if you fertilize like that where you live you will more then likely land up with a lot of spindly weak growth at seasons end. More cutting - more scarring... Just a caution is all, hate to see you get frustrated as it is a nice plant!

Grimmy

Shorter seasons...hm-mmm something to think about. Thanks for the heads up. I was able to order the appropriate fertilizer though. Thanks for the advice...

 

[Cadillactaste]

so do we stop fertilizing all trees then when summer arrives?

 

[Poink88]

so do we stop fertilizing all trees then when summer arrives?

You have to know your tree. Winter and summer are extreme temperatures. How extreme depends on where you are. At certain point...roots shut down (to some degree) and cannot or will not take up as much nutrient. I believe most roots are optimal from 45-95*F (? or there abouts) below and above that, they slow down and eventually shut down.

 

[Cadillactaste]

You have to know your tree. Winter and summer are extreme temperatures. How extreme depends on where you are. At certain point...roots shut down (to some degree) and cannot or will not take up as much nutrient. I believe most roots are optimal from 45-95*F (? or there abouts) below and above that, they slow down and eventually shut down.

Gotcha...so this is why I fertilize my Bougie...though I was told to not fertilize the bottlebrush in the winter...confusing a bit when both are indoors during the winter months. Guess as you say...you need to know your trees.

 

[GrimLore]

so do we stop fertilizing all trees then when summer arrives?

No no no The fertilizer and the Wisteria was the subject Tree fertilization depends on species, health, location, and substrate. That is why except for a FEW THINGS like Wisteria which have different needs I use the same substrate and fertilizer schedule for everything else. It makes it easier. I try not to keep a lot of special need plants and they were the first things I gave away before we moved.

Grimmy