fertilizer!!?

benw3790

Shohin
Messages
351
Reaction score
76
Location
western north carolina
USDA Zone
7b
Ive never used any before. Haha, with that being said, I want to start fertilizing my trees this next growing season. Some of you might think I should've asked Google about this but I wanted to ask you guys who know and have first hand experience and to see what you guys use? And what are some good fertilizers I can just pick up at big box stores?? And this next question could be answered via Google but each species is going to need different fertilizers at different times right? And anybody have any input on over fertilizing or under fertilizing? The latter of the two is harmless right? I'd rather end up under fertilizing them instead of over doing it. For some reason, fertilizing my material is a scary step for me. Thanks! You guys are always super awesome with feedback and swift responses I love bnut! Except for when fools like to argue and put each other down :( come on man peace love and bonsai, namaste. Haha
 
You need to learn what time of year to fertilize your different species of trees also. Some trees you would fertilize at different times of the year than others. Tropical for example can be fertilized year round(I'm sure Ryan will correct me if I'm wrong). I don't do anything special for mine. Just water soluble miracle grow, once a week and add in 3 drops of superthrive per gallon of water once a month.
 
You need to learn what time of year to fertilize your different species of trees also. Some trees you would fertilize at different times of the year than others. Tropical for example can be fertilized year round(I'm sure Ryan will correct me if I'm wrong). I don't do anything special for mine. Just water soluble miracle grow, once a week and add in 3 drops of superthrive per gallon of water once a month.


Oooo I'd be careful about throwing around the word "Superthrive" :p

I've noticed that tropicals don't necessarily need to be fertilized year round. In the tropics they may, but up here in the north, even in my growing tent, they slow down for a month or two. In that month I'll stop the liquid fertilizer, but leave whatever Osmocote may be left. Once I see the trees starting to push growth again, then I'll fertilize.
 
Drew, sheesh I hope you have not started the Superthrive wars again ! :p

I like the Osmocote and similar types of pellet fertilizer you just leave on for 3 months or so. Peters liquid is another I have used and the Miracle grow works well too. I am a fertilizer fanatic though and fertilize anytime there is green showing.

ed
 
I grow very small zelkova outdoors.Why would I want to feed it full strength.The growth would be too long internodes,so I use a liquid organics that can be used with every watering at weaker doses to keep a check on rampant growth(earth juice grow).I also let the first flush grow out and harden before I feed the small zelkova's so they don't absolutely burst forth with growth and internodes in spring.For the rest of my bigger trees I just fertilize every watering the light feeding dose of earth juice grow and then the bloom in later summer.I buy it locally at the hydro store.I do not have to worry about salt build up in my organic soil.I used to use dyna gro,but I think I actually got addicted to thinking I needed it and was really just (over fertilizing) my trees.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    197 KB · Views: 17
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    192 KB · Views: 16
Last edited:
So could I use miracle grow for all species and just follow the directions on the miracle grow? And just use it at different times with whatever the species needs? What about blood meal and fish emulsion and stuff like that? Its all locally available. Ive heard about the super thrive and was informed that you could never use too much? But that you add one drop to one gallon and three or four drops if the tree is a little unhealthy?
 
Drew, sheesh I hope you have not started the Superthrive wars again ! :p

I like the Osmocote and similar types of pellet fertilizer you just leave on for 3 months or so. Peters liquid is another I have used and the Miracle grow works well too. I am a fertilizer fanatic though and fertilize anytime there is green showing.

ed

Where do you find the pellets and the osmocote? Do you have to order it or are they readily available at big box stores or garden centers?
 
Super thrive is like 0-0-4 root booster with iron, but more concentrated and even more expensive.
Dynagrow has been working well for me, but also a little pricey. Last time i tried the cheap green powdered 20-10-10 stuff full strength, i burned some leaves. Just make sure there are micronutrients.
 
So could I use miracle grow for all species and just follow the directions on the miracle grow? And just use it at different times with whatever the species needs? What about blood meal and fish emulsion and stuff like that? Its all locally available. Ive heard about the super thrive and was informed that you could never use too much? But that you add one drop to one gallon and three or four drops if the tree is a little unhealthy?

One could use miracle grow,but I know I have seen salt burn on trees,mainly cause the dense inner rootball has denser and different soil that is always exposed to the salt in the fert for years.I am not a scientist,but the organic I use sais' no salt build up.I believe it cause' I do not see it building up on the tree trunk and it does not slow my moss down on the soil surface like the dyna gro did.I just think organics are more enjoyable,I would go for the fish emulsion.Especially if using an organic based soil.
 
A huge part of the decision on type and quantity involves the substrate and the plant. I use the same substrate on 90 percent of the plants and they all receive the same amount of fertilizer. For some plants that have different requirements it is actually excessive and wastes a bit but with non-organic fast draining substrate it is just easier for me to treat them all the same. Then there is Wisteria and some others that seem to flower better with no or little nitrogen. In a nutshell - the plant and substrate determine the type and amount of fertilizer.

Grimmy
 
Brand name of the fertilizer and its delivery system are 100% immaterial. Plants need NPK and trace elements. Period. They don't care (although YOU might) whether it is organic, inorganic; they'll get what then need and discard the rest.

All I'll say about Stuporthrive is that it is NOT a fertilizer. Oh, and it stinks.
 
I apply 10-10-10 miracle grow granular fertilizer to all my trees in the spring. For developing trees, I use regular miracle grow powder mix diluted to 50% every two weeks during the sping/early summer. When growth slows in the high heat (August), Ill cut that back until temps cool off. When fall growth starts, Ill do 1-2 more applications (September) of the powder mix before ending all fertilizing before the temps really get cold.
 
A huge part of the decision on type and quantity involves the substrate and the plant. I use the same substrate on 90 percent of the plants and they all receive the same amount of fertilizer. For some plants that have different requirements it is actually excessive and wastes a bit but with non-organic fast draining substrate it is just easier for me to treat them all the same. Then there is Wisteria and some others that seem to flower better with no or little nitrogen. In a nutshell - the plant and substrate determine the type and amount of fertilizer.

Grimmy
Makes a lot of sense! I'll have to read up on it some more.
I apply 10-10-10 miracle grow granular fertilizer to all my trees in the spring. For developing trees, I use regular miracle grow powder mix diluted to 50% every two weeks during the sping/early summer. When growth slows in the high heat (August), Ill cut that back until temps cool off. When fall growth starts, Ill do 1-2 more applications (September) of the powder mix before ending all fertilizing before the temps really get cold.

Seems really simple! Thats what I'm striving for as a beginner.. I want something that's simple that will work on all my material and do the job. I'm going to try that with miracle grow and see if it works me, and I really hope it does. But when you guys are using 3 numbers I have no idea what youre talking about. Ha
 
Makes a lot of sense! I'll have to read up on it some more.


Seems really simple! Thats what I'm striving for as a beginner.. I want something that's simple that will work on all my material and do the job. I'm going to try that with miracle grow and see if it works me, and I really hope it does. But when you guys are using 3 numbers I have no idea what youre talking about. Ha

Just because no one should have to type all this out.. Go HERE
 
Ben,

Yikes!

Every fertilizer comes with a guaranteed analysis on the package (or it is not a fertilizer like Superthrive to JKL's point). As an example 10-10-10 (or 24-4-4 or X-X-X) is a balanced fertilizer because it has all three of the main elements a plant needs to grow, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium (N-P-K per the Periodic Table). The numbers indicate the percentage of each element in the package by weight, so 10-10-10 is a balanced fertilizer with equal weights of N-P-K. 24-4-4 is also a balanced fertilizer, but with 6 times the amount of nitrogen than Phosphorous or Potassium. 0-10-0 (Super Phosphate) is not a balanced fertilizer because it does not have Nitrogen (first zero) or Potassium (second zero).

Nitrogen primarily helps a plant grow green stuff above ground. The more Nitrogen, the more leaves, the more leaves, the more twigs. The more inorganic (or chemical, like Miracle Gro) the nitrogen source, the more vigorous and therefore more course the growth. This is good for young plants you are trying to develop quickly. The more organic the nitrogen source, the more moderate the growth. This is good for more developed plants you are trying to refine.

Phosphorous primarily helps a plant grow roots, and for flowering plants more flowers too. Super Phosphate is used for exactly those reasons by some landscapers as a soil amendment when they plant trees and shrubs (help the plant grow new roots to establish itself) or homeowners when they plant daffodil bulbs (help encourage future flowering).

Potassium primarily helps a plant to be more generally healthy and for flowering plants to have bigger, more vibrant flowers.

All three elements help the plants in other ways, but the above is what you really need to know and can be summed up as Up, Down and All Around with Nitrogen being the Up, Phosphorous being the Down and Potassium being the All Around.

Additionally, there are trace elements in some fertilizers. Look them up yourself. Trace elements are needed in extremely small amounts as the name would indicate. They do various things to help plants. Look those up yourself too.

Finally, if over applied, main and trace elements can damage or even kill a plant, so be careful what you apply, when you apply it, how much you apply and how often you apply it.

Regards,
Martin
 
Just because no one should have to type all this out.. Go HERE

Yeah, or that would have been easier. I wish someone would invent a place on your computer where you could click some buttons, type some words and get information returned to you quickly and relatively easily. That would really help in these here situations.

Regards,
Martin
 
Just because no one should have to type all this out.. Go HERE

That link is very useful, thanks!
Ben,

Yikes!

Every fertilizer comes with a guaranteed analysis on the package (or it is not a fertilizer like Superthrive to JKL's point). As an example 10-10-10 (or 24-4-4 or X-X-X) is a balanced fertilizer because it has all three of the main elements a plant needs to grow, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium (N-P-K per the Periodic Table). The numbers indicate the percentage of each element in the package by weight, so 10-10-10 is a balanced fertilizer with equal weights of N-P-K. 24-4-4 is also a balanced fertilizer, but with 6 times the amount of nitrogen than Phosphorous or Potassium. 0-10-0 (Super Phosphate) is not a balanced fertilizer because it does not have Nitrogen (first zero) or Potassium (second zero).

Nitrogen primarily helps a plant grow green stuff above ground. The more Nitrogen, the more leaves, the more leaves, the more twigs. The more inorganic (or chemical, like Miracle Gro) the nitrogen source, the more vigorous and therefore more course the growth. This is good for young plants you are trying to develop quickly. The more organic the nitrogen source, the more moderate the growth. This is good for more developed plants you are trying to refine.

Phosphorous primarily helps a plant grow roots, and for flowering plants more flowers too. Super Phosphate is used for exactly those reasons by some landscapers as a soil amendment when they plant trees and shrubs (help the plant grow new roots to establish itself) or homeowners when they plant daffodil bulbs (help encourage future flowering).

Potassium primarily helps a plant to be more generally healthy and for flowering plants to have bigger, more vibrant flowers.

All three elements help the plants in other ways, but the above is what you really need to know and can be summed up as Up, Down and All Around with Nitrogen being the Up, Phosphorous being the Down and Potassium being the All Around.

Additionally, there are trace elements in some fertilizers. Look them up yourself. Trace elements are needed in extremely small amounts as the name would indicate. They do various things to help plants. Look those up yourself too.

Finally, if over applied, main and trace elements can damage or even kill a plant, so be careful what you apply, when you apply it, how much you apply and how often you apply it.

Regards,
Martin

Thanks martin! Your post is very informational.. I figured the 3 numbers were three different parts but thats about all I knew haha. Thanks for clearing that up!
 
Drew, sheesh I hope you have not started the Superthrive wars again ! :p

I like the Osmocote and similar types of pellet fertilizer you just leave on for 3 months or so. Peters liquid is another I have used and the Miracle grow works well too. I am a fertilizer fanatic though and fertilize anytime there is green showing.

ed

Haha. It seems I have. I will say that not everyone believes it works so it is not a must. Some people even think that it causes deformity in blooming plants if given too high a dose(phals, phrags, other types of chids). I was sure someone with more experience would chime in. Always interested to see what you guys like to use.

And as far as tropical are concerned, everyone knows Ryan prob has the most experience with them here( def at least the most plants!)
 
A huge part of the decision on type and quantity involves the substrate and the plant. I use the same substrate on 90 percent of the plants and they all receive the same amount of fertilizer. For some plants that have different requirements it is actually excessive and wastes a bit but with non-organic fast draining substrate it is just easier for me to treat them all the same. Then there is Wisteria and some others that seem to flower better with no or little nitrogen. In a nutshell - the plant and substrate determine the type and amount of fertilizer.

Grimmy

Now that's what I was trying to say!
 
Back
Top Bottom