Ficus Microcarpa

[Chris Johnston]

Well here is my tentative diagram for styling this tree.

As you can see, it involves thickening the upright which moves to the back then back toward the front. I hope to put more forward movement in the base of it. As it thickens, it will become the visual leader. the other two upright will become subsidiary crowns. The final planting position will be about ten degrees counter-clockwise which will improve the width of the base and the image of the aerial roots.

However, I am very interested in what Dorothy put forth. It's given me a lot to consider.

Chris

 

[irene_b]

To thicken it you need to plant it out. Let it run wild. Chop the roots and merge them with the trunk.

 

[cascade]

Dorothy, Thanks for your reply! That's an interesting concept. Not living in a tropical climate, I am curious as to the exact techniques you would use to perform this. I have seen photos of major work like that being done, but of course there is no one here who does such things.

Do you have some photos of work along those lines? I'd be interested in any insight you might share.

Chris

Chris,

you mean the technique to reduce the base ? Or the technique of growing a banyan style ficus including rootgrafts? I'll be happy to share some pics.

-dorothy

 

[Chris Johnston]

Chris,

you mean the technique to reduce the base ? Or the technique of growing a banyan style ficus including rootgrafts? I'll be happy to share some pics.

-dorothy

Well I suppose the two techniques are pretty basic, but a bit more extreme than most of us are wont to practice. I'd like to see reduction of a large base first, if you don't mind.

Chris

 

[cascade]

Microcarpa

Chris,

all of the following Microcarpa have been sawed off about 3 to 4 inches above soil level, the bark was then "zickzacked" and the "triangles" were lifted while securing them with little rocks. We do use roottone when placing them in soil. I have done this technique with many prebonsai ficus, mostly because they were hopelessly rootbound in their nursery containers. We treat them as one big cutting. However, best chances to positivly take and develop good roots is when done in spring.

Larger trees we do airlayer.

After the trees have taken we do rootwork in the following season.

I have not tried yet to do a combination of airlayering and rootgrafting at the same time. It would probably be interesting to see how that comes out.

 

[cascade]

The pic showing the ''zickzack" was not sawed off beyond soil level. I am only posting it to show the technique.

 

[cascade]

..

Forgot to mention: The banyans shown were sawed off high up the trunk(s) because of hight reduction due to already developed first branches that were located too high. I could have started all over,but "sawing" them off saved considerate time.

Chris, in your climate I would suggest to go with airlayering if you decide to reduce hight. Perhaps even with a combination of airlayering and rootgrafts. I'll experiment and keep you posted.

-dorothy

 

[irene_b]

Dorothy the way you show the sawing off is what I do here as well but I use power saw to do it. I do keep a wire in the pot to place over the top of the tree/branch to hold it down into the pot and to steady it till the roots take off..Having a Green House allows me to do this type of work on Christmas day thru New Years. Done this way I get months of developed roots formed ahead of spring.
Irene

 

[Chris Johnston]

Here's the newest photo of the ficus, from 07/29/2011.

I like the way the upper trunk has grown so well as to take its proper place in the trunk line. I'll eventually disguise the branch transition on the left.
This is the back:

 

[Chris Johnston]

Another new photo of my ficus: Taken 10/12/2011. It's developing fast.

 

[tmmason10]

Looks good Chris, nice progression. It looks like a unique tree to me different from most others I have seen. I am wondering if that middle leader is too tall, have you thought abotu cutting it down to make a rounder canopy? Dorothy's trees are a good example.

 

[Chris Johnston]

Looks good Chris, nice progression. It looks like a unique tree to me different from most others I have seen. I am wondering if that middle leader is too tall, have you thought abotu cutting it down to make a rounder canopy? Dorothy's trees are a good example.

Absolutely, that's the ultimate end. It's too late in the year now to cut it back so it will get cut back again come summer.

 

[bonsai barry]

Chris,
I can certainly see that your tree is heading toward the vision that you have for it. It's growth rate seems slower than I would expect. What says you?

 

[Chris Johnston]

No, I don't think its growth rate is slower than I'd expect for Kansas. They grow great from about late June until late September, then they slow down. It's been growing well for the last 2 years.

 

[Smoke]

I don't see good growth here. This thing is sparse with foliage on the tips and slow development. This thing needs to be in Florida.

 

[Chris Johnston]

So do I but I'm not complaining about it. If I had a heated greenhouse or sunroom, of course it would be farther along by far. "We don't go to war with the army we want, we go to war with the army we have." -Ulysses S. Grant.

 

[Smoke]

I guess since the growth rate question came from Cal. it makes sense for the question. Since the answer came from Kansas, then I expect that "is" the growth rate and maybe the best that can be expected. Maybe tropicals in Kansas are long term projects.

The quote reminds me of a death wish...I wonder if Custer ever heard that from ole U.S. Grant? Timely, since I just finished "Killing Lincoln".

 

[aframe]

ZickZack

Chris,

all of the following Microcarpa have been sawed off about 3 to 4 inches above soil level, the bark was then "zickzacked" and the "triangles" were lifted while securing them with little rocks. We do use roottone when placing them in soil. I have done this technique with many prebonsai ficus, mostly because they were hopelessly rootbound in their nursery containers. We treat them as one big cutting. However, best chances to positivly take and develop good roots is when done in spring.

Larger trees we do airlayer.

After the trees have taken we do rootwork in the following season.

I have not tried yet to do a combination of airlayering and rootgrafting at the same time. It would probably be interesting to see how that comes out.

Please explain "zickzacking" and lifting of the "triangles" I desperately tried to follow your post and want to execute this technique, but I really don't want to screw it up
Thanks in advance!
Aframe

 

[Smoke]

This is the process. It is a type of layer.

That upper caption on the left should read "doubles circumference for making roots".

 

[KennedyMarx]

I like this one quite a bit. Can we get an update? Did you reduce that apex?