Ficus Salicaria From Dragon Tree

KayaMooney

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Just finished doing a rudimentary trim on a Ficus I got yesterday at the Bonsai nursery closest to my house, Dragon Tree. I'm having a little trouble picking which branches to chop away near the apex and what to keep as my leader. I would have liked to re-pot it into a training pot with an inorganic soil mixture today as well but I was short on soil.
 

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Neli

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At the top you have 3 branches coming from the same spot...it can create reverse taper.
You want movement. The middle one has no movement. I would remove it.
Use one of the remaining ones as leader and the other one as branch ifyou are happy with the thickness of the trunk, and want to start branch development.
 

KayaMooney

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I'm content with the thickness, I wouldn't have done a trim like this otherwise. I was under the impression that I should remove the two branches on the left & right, leaving the middle as the leader like so.
 

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Neli

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Are you planning to style your fig as informal upright?
Do you want to have a straight trunk up to the top?
If not You need to develop movement and taper...and this is the way to do it.
You asked...I told you...This is my opinion...the rest is up to you.
 

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KayaMooney

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Envisioning the future for my trees is what I seem to have the most trouble with. Thank you! Your sketch gave me a different view on this tree, I see what you are saying now. I attached a few photos of a tree I saw online that inspired me to purchase this one.
 

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KennedyMarx

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I would wait until you repotted it so you could get a good look at the currently buried nebari. That way you can pick pick a front and decide which of the branches at the top to use as the leader.
 

agraham

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Envisioning the future for my trees is what I seem to have the most trouble with.

Me too.

KM is correct though. You want to chose your front based on the trunk and nebari. After that you can chose the branch to leave as the leader in order to give movement and taper like Neli mentioned.
 

KayaMooney

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I dug away at the soil a little and the side I have as the front In these photos has the strongest nebari and the tree is also leaning towards the viewer with this side as the front.
 

edprocoat

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Just a couple thoughts for you to consider Kaya, the roots will need drastic attention as they are circular, big and crossed over each other almost like the have been woven together. It would have been best to have layered the trunk at the soil line. It would have been my first move before any trimming seeing the state the roots are presently in. I have dealt with Ficus before with this type of unchecked root growth and it only gets worse unless its been fixed.

I know you see a lot about inorganic mixes for trees here on B-Nut and they are fine in the right circumstances. Your Ficus enjoys organics and in S. Florida it may well need them to keep from drying out and killing the tree, unless you are willing to provide a watering regimen that will keep it wet enough to survive the heat while not drowning the roots. That will take constant attention in your location.

ed
 

KayaMooney

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I've dealt with ficus in this condition before as well and I'd always consider ground layering as a last option, there's a fine nebari underneath the mess on top and there's many ways to deal with encircling roots on ficus.

All of my trees that are in bonsai pots are in an inorganic mixture and some that are still in training pots as well and they are doing just fine. It's not like I'm just going to forget about my trees and let them dry out for a long period of time, I may be somewhat new to bonsai but I'm not an idiot.
 
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Neli

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Thisis exactly what I showed you to do:
attachment.php
 

edprocoat

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I've dealt with ficus in this condition before as well and I'd always consider ground layering as a last option, there's a fine nebari underneath the mess on top and there's many ways to deal with encircling roots on ficus.

All of my trees that are in bonsai pots are in an inorganic mixture and some that are still in training pots as well and they are doing just fine. It's not like I'm just going to forget about my trees and let them dry out, I may be somewhat new to bonsai but I'm not an idiot.

OK... I never assumed nor stated you were an idiot ?

This fine Nebari you see beneath the mess on top, is it part of that root that is almost as big as the trunk in the third picture? The one that crosses the surface of the pot and splits before growing down into the soil again?
The plant is in a heavy organic mix now and it seems to enjoy it, probably Dragon Tree finds it easier to keep them healthy in your heat with an organic mix. I know most Florida growers rely heavy on organics for this very reason. Wigerts uses 1/3 rd organics (pine bark) in all the stuff they grow and you can not complain about the stuff they produce .....

ed
 
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KayaMooney

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No, that root will be removed. It is coming up from the bottom and circling around on top.
 

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OK... I never assumed nor stated you were an idiot ?

This fine Nebari you see beneath the mess on top, is it part of that root that is almost as big as the trunk in the third picture? The one that crosses the surface of the pot and splits before growing down into the soil again?
The plant is in a heavy organic mix now and it seems to enjoy it, probably Dragon Tree finds it easier to keep them healthy in your heat with an organic mix. I know most Florida growers rely heavy on organics for this very reason. Wigerts uses 1/3 rd organics (pine bark) in all the stuff they grow and you can not complain about the stuff they produce .....

ed


Jim Smith grows all of his trees in 100% Turface. Don't get your mind so wrapped up on soil mixes. Nursery growers tend to use organic mixes because its cheaper to buy 500 cubic feet of it, rather than buying "x" amount of various substrates and mixing 500 cubic feet of bonsai soil for pre-bonsai. A major contributing factor to the prices of Wigert's trees vs. Dragontree or Old Florida (both use organic mix for pre-bonsai) is the fact that Wigert's trees are in bonsai soil. All three nurseries sell mostly tropical bonsai. One can say that is worth the extra cost of the plants, but others, like myself, would say it makes no difference.

When Jim Smith repots his trees, he measures how deep the pot he would like the tree to go into is, and then he measures that depth on the rootball and cuts it flat. Jim Smith told me that (I already did this working with Jim Van Landinham who was taught by Jim Smith), literally today, and said that when he sees the ritual people go into when repotting bonsai it makes him think they are crazy. Jim Smith also doesn't go crazy about nebari the way the Japanese do either. He sees the beauty in the trunks and branches of trees.

Tropical bonsai is not the same as traditional Japanese bonsai. You do not treat a Ficus the way you treat a Pine, Juniper, or Maple. Just throw that idea out of your idea and you will have much better success with tropicals....even inside if thats how you "must" grow them. My personal opinion is, just don't grow them if they can't stay outdoors, its called zone envy. I can't grow a lot of trees here because it doesn't get cold enough, so I just don't grow them instead of torturing them for years until they finally die, because inevitably, they will die.

@Kaya,

You only have two options as I see it if you want to use that low left branch as your first branch. A) Remove the left, and middle apical branches or B) Cut below all three and grow a new top. You will also have to remove that thick back branch because it's also twice the size of your first branch. Taper tells age, not branch location.
 

edprocoat

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Jim Smith grows all of his trees in 100% Turface. Don't get your mind so wrapped up on soil mixes. Nursery growers tend to use organic mixes because its cheaper to buy 500 cubic feet of it, rather than buying "x" amount of various substrates and mixing 500 cubic feet of bonsai soil for pre-bonsai. A major contributing factor to the prices of Wigert's trees vs. Dragontree or Old Florida (both use organic mix for pre-bonsai) is the fact that Wigert's trees are in bonsai soil. All three nurseries sell mostly tropical bonsai. One can say that is worth the extra cost of the plants, but others, like myself, would say it makes no difference.

When Jim Smith repots his trees, he measures how deep the pot he would like the tree to go into is, and then he measures that depth on the rootball and cuts it flat. Jim Smith told me that (I already did this working with Jim Van Landinham who was taught by Jim Smith), literally today, and said that when he sees the ritual people go into when repotting bonsai it makes him think they are crazy. Jim Smith also doesn't go crazy about nebari the way the Japanese do either. He sees the beauty in the trunks and branches of trees.

Tropical bonsai is not the same as traditional Japanese bonsai. You do not treat a Ficus the way you treat a Pine, Juniper, or Maple. Just throw that idea out of your idea and you will have much better success with tropicals....even inside if thats how you "must" grow them. My personal opinion is, just don't grow them if they can't stay outdoors, its called zone envy. I can't grow a lot of trees here because it doesn't get cold enough, so I just don't grow them instead of torturing them for years until they finally die, because inevitably, they will die.

.

Crap, First off Wigert's is a BONSAI Nursery, not a "nursery grower" I wish you could point out some references to the statements you made in the above post. Like, how many "nursery growers" did you poll to learn they use organics as they are "cheaper" and remember we are talking about BONSAI growers here. Also, Wigert's trees are indeed in Bonsai soil which happens to contain thirds organics (pine bark).

Please clarify this gem "Tropical bonsai is not the same as traditional Japanese bonsai" so you are saying the Japanese do not traditionally work with tropicals. I guess someone forgot to mention this to the Japanese....

Lastly, anyone with a grain of horticultural experience would realize one does not " treat a Ficus the way you treat a Pine, Juniper, or Maple. " As a matter of fact one would not treat any of those species the same way, get real man I doubt there are people waiting to decandle their Maple or trunk chop their JBP.

I do not understand either how you came up with this cute retort to my post. I never made any of these off topic points? I mentioned organics to keep the soil moist longer in heat, requiring less effort to keep plants from drying out. The reason most BONSAI nursery growers use organics in the mix they use.

Perhaps you should get your "mind so wrapped up" on the topic you comment on in the future .

And another thing Carp do you mean Jim Smith who has Dura Stone nursery in Vero beach Fl. in your comment "Jim Smith grows all of his trees in 100% Turface. Don't get your mind so wrapped up on soil mixes." ? If so this is not at all true, I have been to Dura Stone in '07, '09, and '10 and most his stock was in a heavy organic medium. There may have been one or two that I missed that was grown in 100% Turface, but the rows of tropical, cypress, junipers, buttonwoods and others I seen were all in organic mediums.

ed

ed
 
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carp

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Crap, First off Wigert's is a BONSAI Nursery, not a "nursery grower" I wish you could point out some references to the statements you made in the above post. Like, how many "nursery growers" did you poll to learn they use organics as they are "cheaper" and remember we are talking about BONSAI growers here. Also, Wigert's trees are indeed in Bonsai soil which happens to contain thirds organics (pine bark).

Please clarify this gem "Tropical bonsai is not the same as traditional Japanese bonsai" so you are saying the Japanese do not traditionally work with tropicals. I guess someone forgot to mention this to the Japanese....

Lastly, anyone with a grain of horticultural experience would realize one does not " treat a Ficus the way you treat a Pine, Juniper, or Maple. " As a matter of fact one would not treat any of those species the same way, get real man I doubt there are people waiting to decandle their Maple or trunk chop their JBP.

I do not understand either how you came up with this cute retort to my post. I never made any of these off topic points? I mentioned organics to keep the soil moist longer in heat, requiring less effort to keep plants from drying out. The reason most BONSAI nursery growers use organics in the mix they use.

Perhaps you should get your "mind so wrapped up" on the topic you comment on in the future .

ed

Erik Wigert is a nursery grower, he own's and operates Wigert's Bonsai.
Old Florida Bonsai is a bonsai nursery owned and operated by Richard and JJ Turner.
Dragontree is a bonsai nursery owned and operated by Robert Pinder.
Adam Lavigne is a bonsai artist and operates a bonsai nursery from his backyard; also good personal friends with Erik Wigert.
Jason Schley owns and operates Schley's Bonsai.
Mike Cartrett owns and operates Palm Beach Bonsai.
David VanBuskirk owns and operates D&L Bonsai Nursery.
Jim Smith owns and operates Durastone Nursery.
I don't know the name of Mike Rogers' nursery, but he also operates a bonsai nursery.

Wigert's, Schley's, and D&L have the highest prices are grow the majority of their pre-bonsai stock in bonsai mix. Pretty sure all three use the "standard Florida mix" as we call it; Turface, Pine Bark, and Lava Rock 1:1:1

Old Florida, Dragontree, Adam Lavigne, Mike Rogers, Durastone and Palm Beach have the majority of the pre-bonsai stock in an organic mix. They grow the same quality plants, and charge a significantly lower price.

It is much cheaper to pot 500 plants in an organic mix, than in any "bonsai mix". The ingredients in bonsai mixes are much more expensive than an organic mix. This is not uncommon practice in bonsai nurseries. These are all local Florida bonsai nursery growers. I don't know how much clearer I need to be here.

And no, the Japanese do not typically work with tropicals. The Southeastern Asian countries do, but they are not Japanese. Traditional Japanese bonsai is strict. Ben Oki once said that Brazillian Rain Tree could not be used for bonsai, literally saying "no good for bonsai"; until he saw Jim Moody's. That is the general attitude of traditional Japanese bonsai on the idea of tropical bonsai. The Japanese grow their trees differently than they do in the Philippines, Taiwan, Indonesia and South China. Look how much show stopping tropical bonsai comes from these regions and then show me some traditional Japanese bonsai artists using tropicals. Key word is Traditional. Kimura is no way a traditionalist; but he does not even work with tropicals. Traditional Japanese bonsai does not use tropical trees and I don't think any Japanese show has a "Tropical" category but they do have "Evergreen", "Broadleaf", "Flowering", "Deciduous" (I could be wrong on this one).

The statement about not treating a ficus the same way as pine, maple, or juniper was to reiterate the fact that traditional Japanese bonsai is not the same as tropical bonsai. It was obviously (or not so obviously) implying the fact that the Japanese methods do not always apply to tropical species. Growing "tropical" bonsai indoors is also not the same as what we do here in Florida, or any of those South Eastern Asian counties where our trees are outdoors all year.

My point on the soil is; it does not matter what you grow your trees in. Jim Smith is known as the best North American Tropical Bonsai artist, and he grows his trees in 100% Turface. From Ficus, Buttonwood, Bougainvillea, to Simpson Stopper, Gumbo Limbo, and Baobab. It all grows in Turface with no organics and the same heat. Like I said in that other thread, I don't consider the phrase "bonsai mix" to be an organic mix. When I think organic mix I think of something like Peat Moss, Washed Sand, and Pine Bark 1:1:1. It's totally organic, so its an organic mix. Turface, Lava, Pine Bark 1:1:1 is mostly inorganic; I call it inorganic. It's semantics. It really is.

What you did say was, "The plant is in a heavy organic mix now and it seems to enjoy it, probably Dragon Tree finds it easier to keep them healthy in your heat with an organic mix. I know most Florida growers rely heavy on organics for this very reason." And in reality, it doesn't matter as far as keeping the soil wet or the trees like to grow in dirt more than clay; it's simply because its cheaper. You can buy Buttonwood from Old Florida bonsai that are fifteen inches tall, three inches wide, and growing in a fourteen inch bulb pan for almost a third of the price what it would cost at Wigert's. Because Old Florida grows their pre-bonsai in organic soil vs. Wigert who grows his in inorganic bonsai mix. It's not a matter of who grows better trees at all; its a matter of who has less cost in each of their trees. Its simple economics. When I say "don't get your mind wrapped up on soil mixes"; its because a tree will grow in any substrate as long as you water it according to that substrate and the trees needs. To be honest, the only reason I use anything mixed with anything is because it looks better than straight Turface; except with my Buttonwood and Cypress.

Lastly; you were saying that it would be best to layer the trunk and create a new nebari. My point about Jim Smith and repotting is that with a ficus, no matter what the roots look like under or above the soil line; you can cut them all off without affecting the tree's health. There is absolutely no need to layer the trunk, and I'm sure that when the soil is washed from the tree, those circling roots are coming from the bottom of the trunk and easily removed anyhow. Again, tropicals are not like Japanese bonsai. Black Pine; all of the vigor is stored in the roots and when you repot, you have to be very delicate. Treating it the way we do Tropicals during repotting will kill it and the same goes for Maple and Juniper. Thats the problem with circling roots in traditional Japanese bonsai; you can't simply go in and cut them all out the way you can with a tropical bonsai. That was my whole point.

I really don't have time to keep going through this with you anytime I post in the same thread as you Ed, but when I see something as misinformed, I want to correct it.

And yes, I mean Jim Smith who runs Durastone. His pre-bonsai are grown in an organic medium, because again, its cheaper. His personal trees are grown in 100% Turface. The entire Heathcote collection of 100 trees are all in Turface.
 
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edprocoat

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Erik Wigert is a nursery grower, he own's and operates Wigert's Bonsai.
Old Florida Bonsai is a bonsai nursery owned and operated by Richard and JJ Turner.
Dragontree is a bonsai nursery owned and operated by Robert Pinder.
Adam Lavigne is a bonsai artist and operates a bonsai nursery from his backyard; also good personal friends with Erik Wigert.
Jason Schley owns and operates Schley's Bonsai.
Mike Cartrett owns and operates Palm Beach Bonsai.
David VanBuskirk owns and operates D&L Bonsai Nursery.
Jim Smith owns and operates Durastone Nursery.
I don't know the name of Mike Rogers' nursery, but he also operates a bonsai nursery.

Wigert's, Schley's, and D&L have the highest prices are grow the majority of their pre-bonsai stock in bonsai mix. Pretty sure all three use the "standard Florida mix" as we call it; Turface, Pine Bark, and Lava Rock 1:1:1

Old Florida, Dragontree, Adam Lavigne, Mike Rogers, Durastone and Palm Beach have the majority of the pre-bonsai stock in an organic mix. They grow the same quality plants, and charge a significantly lower price.

It is much cheaper to pot 500 plants in an organic mix, than in any "bonsai mix". The ingredients in bonsai mixes are much more expensive than an organic mix. This is not uncommon practice in bonsai nurseries. These are all local Florida bonsai nursery growers. I don't know how much clearer I need to be here.

And no, the Japanese do not typically work with tropicals. The Southeastern Asian countries do, but they are not Japanese. Traditional Japanese bonsai is strict. Ben Oki once said that Brazillian Rain Tree could not be used for bonsai, literally saying "no good for bonsai"; until he saw Jim Moody's. That is the general attitude of traditional Japanese bonsai on the idea of tropical bonsai. The Japanese grow their trees differently than they do in the Philippines, Taiwan, Indonesia and South China. Look how much show stopping tropical bonsai comes from these regions and then show me some traditional Japanese bonsai artists using tropicals. Key word is Traditional. Kimura is no way a traditionalist; but he does not even work with tropicals. Traditional Japanese bonsai does not use tropical trees and I don't think any Japanese show has a "Tropical" category but they do have "Evergreen", "Broadleaf", "Flowering", "Deciduous" (I could be wrong on this one).

The statement about not treating a ficus the same way as pine, maple, or juniper was to reiterate the fact that traditional Japanese bonsai is not the same as tropical bonsai. It was obviously (or not so obviously) implying the fact that the Japanese methods do not always apply to tropical species. Growing "tropical" bonsai indoors is also not the same as what we do here in Florida, or any of those South Eastern Asian counties where our trees are outdoors all year.

My point on the soil is; it does not matter what you grow your trees in. Jim Smith is known as the best North American Tropical Bonsai artist, and he grows his trees in 100% Turface. From Ficus, Buttonwood, Bougainvillea, to Simpson Stopper, Gumbo Limbo, and Baobab. It all grows in Turface with no organics and the same heat. Like I said in that other thread, I don't consider the phrase "bonsai mix" to be an organic mix. When I think organic mix I think of something like Peat Moss, Washed Sand, and Pine Bark 1:1:1. It's totally organic, so its an organic mix. Turface, Lava, Pine Bark 1:1:1 is mostly inorganic; I call it inorganic. It's semantics. It really is.

What you did say was, "The plant is in a heavy organic mix now and it seems to enjoy it, probably Dragon Tree finds it easier to keep them healthy in your heat with an organic mix. I know most Florida growers rely heavy on organics for this very reason." And in reality, it doesn't matter as far as keeping the soil wet or the trees like to grow in dirt more than clay; it's simply because its cheaper. You can buy Buttonwood from Old Florida bonsai that are fifteen inches tall, three inches wide, and growing in a fourteen inch bulb pan for almost a third of the price what it would cost at Wigert's. Because Old Florida grows their pre-bonsai in organic soil vs. Wigert who grows his in inorganic bonsai mix. It's not a matter of who grows better trees at all; its a matter of who has less cost in each of their trees. Its simple economics. When I say "don't get your mind wrapped up on soil mixes"; its because a tree will grow in any substrate as long as you water it according to that substrate and the trees needs. To be honest, the only reason I use anything mixed with anything is because it looks better than straight Turface; except with my Buttonwood and Cypress.

Lastly; you were saying that it would be best to layer the trunk and create a new nebari. My point about Jim Smith and repotting is that with a ficus, no matter what the roots look like under or above the soil line; you can cut them all off without affecting the tree's health. There is absolutely no need to layer the trunk, and I'm sure that when the soil is washed from the tree, those circling roots are coming from the bottom of the trunk and easily removed anyhow. Again, tropicals are not like Japanese bonsai. Black Pine; all of the vigor is stored in the roots and when you repot, you have to be very delicate. Treating it the way we do Tropicals during repotting will kill it and the same goes for Maple and Juniper. Thats the problem with circling roots in traditional Japanese bonsai; you can't simply go in and cut them all out the way you can with a tropical bonsai. That was my whole point.

I really don't have time to keep going through this with you anytime I post in the same thread as you Ed, but when I see something as misinformed, I want to correct it.

And yes, I mean Jim Smith who runs Durastone. His pre-bonsai are grown in an organic medium, because again, its cheaper. His personal trees are grown in 100% Turface. The entire Heathcote collection of 100 trees are all in Turface.

Gee whiz you really impressed me with your list of Fl. Bonsai growers, you should have mentioned Japan Nursey run by Hiro Ito in Sanford uses standard Fl. mix on everything as does the following Elemental Nursery in St. Cloud, Penjing Bonsai Garden in Malabar Fl. <- surprised you never mentioned him he is your neighbor, Miami Tropical Bonsai uses this mix as do all the commercial Bonsai mills in the Golden Triangle area.

So your statement Jim Smith grows ALL his stuff in 100% Turface is , admittedly, by your own words false, - "His pre-bonsai are grown in an organic medium, because again, its cheaper. His personal trees are grown in 100% Turface" at least we can agree on that much. :)

Although I will never agree with your premise that the Japanese do not grow tropical Bonsai ... And for your edification, circling roots are no problem to cut out on most Maples as well as most Elms and correct me if I am wrong but these species are also traditional Japanese Bonsai material.

Oh and your "whole point" about just cutting this tree off without layering it ? Where did you come up with that one ? Take a thick trunk like that and cut it off the root system, treat it with rooting hormone and stick in any medium and admittedly you would have a very slight chance it may root. Most likely it will die, the same if you cut major roots off. While a well done layer on a Ficus is nearly foolproof. Of course you may get lucky with a cutting and there are tales of this working. In cuttings its usually the new sprouts that root this way CONSISTENTLY, and when giving advice to another concerning the health of their tree don't you owe it to them to advise well ?

ed
 
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carp

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Gee whiz, so your statement Jim Smith grows ALL his stuff in 100% Turface is , admittedly by your own words false, - "His pre-bonsai are grown in an organic medium, because again, its cheaper. His personal trees are grown in 100% Turface" at least we can agree on that much. :) Now I will never agree with your premise that the Japanese do not grow tropical Bonsai ...

Oh and your "whole point" about just cutting this tree off without layering it ? Where did you come up with that one ? Take a thick trunk like that and cut it off the root system, treat it with rooting hormone and stick in any medium and admittedly you would have a very slight chance it may root. Most likely it will die, the same if you cut major roots off. While a well done layer on a Ficus is nearly foolproof. Of course you may get lucky with a cutting and there are tales of this working. Like in any cutting its usually the new sprouts that root this way CONSISTENTLY, and when giving advice to another concerning the health of their tree don't you owe it to them to advise well ?

ed

When I referenced Jim Smith growing all of his trees in Turface, I meant his personal collection...HIS trees. The trees he sells are owned by him, but he would rather they be yours.

Just show me a traditional japanese bonsai artist who does tropicals; just one. There aren't any.

Ficus root here in Florida where the humidity is high no problem. Kaya lives in Florida too. I referenced this link here: http://adamaskwhy.wordpress.com/2013/06/18/air-layering-success-and-failure/ in a different thread about air layering ficus. If Kaya took the tree out of the pot and cut all of the roots off, and put it back into soil and watered it like every other tree in his collection, it will root. But he doesn't need too, those circling roots can be removed with no problem at all.
 

Neli

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Every bonsai nursery in Japan has tropicals...many different varieties.
Bougies, lantana figs...malpighia...and many more.
Do you want pictures?
 
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