Ficus species advice

[jk_lewis]

Well, Harry's in England, which is some different than Minnesota and doesn't specialize in Ficus (or grow many) and Jerry is in Montana and DOES specialize in Ficus -- http://flatheadbeacon.com/2014/07/21/bonsai-garden-grows-whitefish/

http://www.bonsaihunk.us/meislik2.html

If I were you, I'd listen to and read everything he has to say.

 

[JasonRedwood]

Ah, i've been reading from that website since I decided I wanted a ficus. I will take a closer look at his stuff.
I bought Harry's intro book when i started thinking about bonsai last year - and his website and other books have proved invaluable - but he doesn't have much at all on ficus.

When i can i will definitely buy Jerry's book. It's just not in the cards at this moment.

 

[coh]

You might find some useful information at the following website:

http://www.tandamiti.com/index.htme

Hank (he's a member here, though he doesn't post often) grows a number of ficus species in upstate New York and his trees always look very healthy and vigorous (much stronger than my tropicals). He does use a greenhouse during the cold season whereas I try to grow mine indoors with artificial lighting.

I've had decent success with willow leaf ficus, they usually hold their foliage through the winter though I don't get much growth during that time. I have had less luck with tiger bark (which I think is a variety of microcarpa? Not sure).

 

[amcoffeegirl]

It's kind of an outdated practice but when I wanted to learn more I went to the library and checked out books. Your local library may have many good books. Also you can go to a half price used book store or ebay. Used books are a great purchase option.
Jerry highly recommends retusa and willow leaf.
I think just buy a small ficus give it lots of light and a well draining soil. You can learn as you go. If the leaves turn yellow and fall off it is likely not getting enough water. Use a chopstick and stick it in the pot to check and see if it needs water. If the chopstick is damp don't water.

 

[JasonRedwood]

Thanks coh. I will be growing mine indoors as well, but i am setting up sort of a mini greenhouse. I have lights, and a glass enclosure for heat and humidity in the winter. Should be a fun time for them.

@amcoffeegirl Oh i'm well aware of used books - I am a student. I have looked at my local library and there's not much there. I have skimmed through the few books they have - but i don't remember seeing anything specific to ficus.

What I am likely going to do is just get myself one like you said, and try things out. I have managed to keep several plants alive for a few years in crappy potting soil. Switching to diotomite will help a lot and not be as stressful with watering.

 

[amcoffeegirl]

There isn't likely anything specific to ficus and bonsai. But you may find them separate in two different books. Any general houseplant book will tell you how to grow a ficus. Most ficus have very similar growing needs. Having said that I can only grow pumila in a terrarium. Bonsai folks use different soil to assist with draining and it helps to create a fine fibrous root system. Planting in a shallow pot helps create surface roots.
Ficus do best in the 70-80 degree temps. (65-70 at night) They enjoy high humidity but will grow in my iowa dry winters without a grow room. You don't really want the humidity to stay so high that your plant never dries out. It will just cause algae and fungus and root rot.
I have about 20 ficus and 2 at my work.
The ones at work are growing about 12 inches under t-8 lights. No sunlight ever. I have an interior office. Watch for changes a ficus will tell you when something is wrong. Usually it's with watering. Too wet or too dry.
Just watch it closely but not to closely.

 

[JasonRedwood]

Thanks for the info! I doubt they will be terribly hard to grow. Depending on the size of plant i order, i may try to start forming aerial roots pretty soon after getting it - which is why i made the humid setup in my apartment. However, i've been playing with it - and can get it to pretty much whatever level i want.

 

[carp]

Figs are like every other plant; they like to be wet, and then dry and then wet and then dry and then wet and then dry and then wet and then dry....

Find me on Facebook, and we can talk more. I am curator of the largest public tropical collection in the US. I don't do anything indoors though, so the game is a little different.

 

[markyscott]

Figs are like every other plant; they like to be wet, and then dry and then wet and then dry and then wet and then dry and then wet and then dry....

Find me on Facebook, and we can talk more. I am curator of the largest public tropical collection in the US. I don't do anything indoors though, so the game is a little different.

Is that the Fairchild?

Scott

 

[mat]

Jerry's book is okay. There aren't many, so I can't suggest a better one. It will probably be useful for you since you're so far North.

Here in Florida, Ficus are generally potted in fast draining, mostly inorganic mix. lava/turface/pine bark is the classic mix here. Some crazy folks use 100% turface. As Brian said, one of the benefits of keeping Ficus as a beginner is that they'll be fine with a wide range of conditions (soil, water, fertilizer, etc). Just don't let them get too soggy or freeze. & like Seth, I don't keep them indoors so your results & methods may vary.

 

[JasonRedwood]

carp, you have an incredibly common name apparently - i can't determine which facebook profile is yours.

mat, i'm guessing the only differences indoors are lighting (which i'm supplementing) and humidity. I would bet just pine bark and diotomite will be fine for the ficus. A few have said they're not hard to grow and very forgiving. I'm not buying just yet though, so i'm going to do more research.

 

[jk_lewis]

mat, i'm guessing the only differences indoors are lighting (which i'm supplementing) and humidity. I would bet just pine bark and diotomite will be fine for the ficus.

There's another BIG difference. Moving, FRESH air. And bugs. Indoor trees often have many more insect issues that outdoor trees, so keeping the air moving freely and the environment clean of spilled water, soil, leaves and other detritus is especially important.

Maybe you've said, but how are you planning to supplement the light? And for how long?

I'd not worry so much about the soil (all it has to do is drain well) and start thinking about the overall environment. I seem to recall you saying you had a place with very high humidity. Is this in your house? How will you keep the mildew off walls and furniture?

 

[JasonRedwood]

@jkl I do have a small fan on my plants, for air movement - and often have a nearby window open. (In winter the window won't be open, because cold).

As for bugs, i have not seen any evidence of bugs whatsoever. Using diotomaceous earth is nice, as the sharp particles pierce many insects and kill them. I've been growing vegetables inside for years and never had any insect problems. I will keep an extremely close eye on it though.

I have T8 lighting that I give my plants 16-18 hours a day on a timer. When my deciduous start going dormant, i'll simulate light changes for them, and have the ficus in a different location just for that month or so - then during winter the ficus will be under the lights all by itself. Before next spring, i may even get another T8 ballast or switch to halide - but i really don't want those in my place.

The humid environment can be one of two things, both i've set up and both work fairly well - but ambient humidity right now is pretty high. One possibility is a glass garden "terrarium". I think it's more intended for decoration - but i tried it with just a tray of water and one misting per day (no plants inside) and it made the humidity hover around 80% - it even has some "vents" that can be opened for airflow. My other possibility is just using sheets of plastic to make an enclosure over the winter when the air dries out. I tried this as well, with the same sort of set up - it didn't work as well, humidity stayed around 69-70% - but it was a larger air volume.

Either way, i'll be able to keep a small area pretty humid for the winter - at least humid enough. In summer humidity is not a problem, as i don't have central air and Minnesota is extremely humid most of the time.

 

[amcoffeegirl]

Humidity isn't critical unless you are trying to grow aerial roots. Lighting is far more important.

http://www.bonsaihunk.us/Figsindoors.html

 

[JasonRedwood]

I've been spending all my time on that website I do intend to grow aerial roots. Once the tree settles in - probably next spring i want to do root over rock with some aerial roots as well. My first step is just keeping the tree alive, and maybe taking a few air layers if there are branches I don't want - so i can fuse those into the trunk in the spring as well.

I know they grow best in bright lighting and humid conditions - which is why i'm thinking about getting a new ballast. Right now, mine has 2 T8 bulbs. I want to invest in a 4 bulb ballast so there's a larger area of light hitting the plants.

All those plans may change once i see the plant though.

 

[amcoffeegirl]

I think your light will be fine. Try to keep your environment stable if you move it from high humidity to low humidity just do it slowly. I think you're on the right track. Now it's time from the tree.
Really any healthy tree will do for a starter right? Make sure you do try a willow leaf eventually. You will be pleased with the results.

 

[JasonRedwood]

I am going with Ficus natalensis. I emailed with the folks from Wigert's, and they agreed that natalensis would be a good choice for me and the stock they have is very strong. Good for root over rock or banyan styles, extremely easy to grow - doesn't mind being cut back or harsh growing conditions.

Once i have some outdoor space, I think I will try willow leaf - they are becoming my second choice for ficus's. I will post an update once i get the tree - probably ordering it this week or the week after. I literally just bought a juniper - so i should cool it for a few weeks

 

[Redwood Ryan]

Natalensis make excellent bonsai. The roots are more ravenous then you could ever imagine.

 

[JasonRedwood]

That's what i'm looking for. I want to do a lot with the roots. I may even pot it in a slightly bigger pot for a year to get it to grow and thicken a lot. I really like that you can so easily fuse the trunks - takes a lot of the waiting out of getting the trunk to thicken up.

 

[Redwood Ryan]

But just realize that indoors under T8 lighting it won't grow as quickly and vigorously as you're probably thinking.