Ficus tiger bark where to cut to reduce internodes space

giventofly

Mame
Messages
248
Reaction score
105
Location
Iberia - Europe
USDA Zone
10
I been used to Elms and Maple where I can clearly see where the "previous" node is so I know where to cut to force the growth on the previous node, but how can I know on a ficus? Doesn't seem to have any "visible" node, is it on any leaf similar to the Elm ?
 

Firstflush

Chumono
Messages
982
Reaction score
1,137
Location
NW Montucky
USDA Zone
3-4
There “could” be a node at every leaf stem junction. It may or may not pop once you clip the branch.
 

giventofly

Mame
Messages
248
Reaction score
105
Location
Iberia - Europe
USDA Zone
10
Thanks, been trying to find more information on ficus refinement/structure but seems to be more information about layers, aerial roots and grafts
 
Messages
820
Reaction score
1,137
Location
Salt Lake City, UT, USA
USDA Zone
7a
A tigerbark ficus will respond to trimming to an existing leaf very similar to an elm. I don't think I have ever seen one not sprout from a leaf axil. Tigerbark tend to sprout from the last node on a branch first, but if the tree is strong it may sprout from every leaf axil on a branch after pruning. They will also bud from old wood but it is hard to predict where unless there is an obvious branch scar or leaf scar. I have been learning to leave the branch collar when pruning branches if I think I might want it to sprout there in the future.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
Messages
32,912
Reaction score
45,593
Location
Berwyn, Il
USDA Zone
6.2
I believe the appropriate question is WHEN to cut to reduce internode length.

Timing and conditions can result in shortened future spacing, but you can't change what's there without a branch shrinker tool.

Don't buy that shit on Amazon. It's fake!

Sorce
 

Ugo

Shohin
Messages
353
Reaction score
620
Location
Qc, Canada
USDA Zone
5A
Hi friend!

Im experimenting a technique since 1.5 years now on my tree.

I decided to experiement in bulding a canopy on a ficus starting from the 6 main trunks and a great total of 12 branchelets the size of a toothpick..... ( I know 6 trunks is politically incorrect but there's a whole story behind it.. my tree my choice!),
Still to put it in my own way, I don't often see examples of ficuss that have a well-developed secondary and tertiary branching here in my corner of the globe.
Maybe is just that I dont attend shows enough but they are mainly abscent in developped forms and Ive seen what theses trees are capable of.
Without really knowing what I was doing I started trying different techniques using different timing. And I think I arrived at an interesting method that allowed me to build this entire canopy in 1.5 years in the northern hemisphere.

I really dont want to share previous pictures of this tree as it would show my complete lack of knowledge, but I can assure you its a complete ressurection and there's way more to come.

31-08-22 (3).jpg


@sorce, in his own way of course :) Has already given the answer to this great question in his post above timing is the only thing that's important, not much the time of the year, the entire tree yes for its general health but the current state of the branche you're working on and not the one aside.

Keep in mind, more branches equal more energy spent by the tree to build the canopy, which will RESULT in shorter internode lenght and smaller leaves on the newest branches and if lucky on the existing secondary branches.


See this link for the detail on the timing and method I use on my tree
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/backbudding-on-ficus.55788/post-965351

There's lots of work to come for this tree to improve alot of things but as its my first tree I want to improve it as much as Im capable of and so far it respond fairly well.

Hope that help
Ugo
 

giventofly

Mame
Messages
248
Reaction score
105
Location
Iberia - Europe
USDA Zone
10
Looks great, will follow your thread along too. (edit: okay, thought you did a standalone thread for the development of your tree - do it :p )
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ugo

Maiden69

Masterpiece
Messages
2,340
Reaction score
3,612
Location
Boerne, TX
USDA Zone
8b
Ficus is extremely easy to backbud. You need plenty of sun, plenty of fertilizer with the right nutrients, and don't be afraid to do hard cuts. If your tree have all the primary branches already set, you can do the cut back to a leaf, as latent buds are always present there. But if you don't have the structure set, you can cut branches hard and that will induce new branches to appear from everywhere, but you have to make sure the tree is strong for a push like that. If not you're just going to get a few branches from close to the cut area.

Here is my ficus progression in one year. From Aug 21 - Aug 22.

ficus branch.JPG


1658600715814.jpeg


1658600777090.jpeg


1661718568023.jpeg
 

Ugo

Shohin
Messages
353
Reaction score
620
Location
Qc, Canada
USDA Zone
5A
Looks great, will follow your thread along too. (edit: okay, thought you did a standalone thread for the development of your tree - do it :p )

I will, thank you!
 

giventofly

Mame
Messages
248
Reaction score
105
Location
Iberia - Europe
USDA Zone
10
Ficus is extremely easy to backbud. You need plenty of sun, plenty of fertilizer with the right nutrients, and don't be afraid to do hard cuts. If your tree have all the primary branches already set, you can do the cut back to a leaf, as latent buds are always present there. But if you don't have the structure set, you can cut branches hard and that will induce new branches to appear from everywhere, but you have to make sure the tree is strong for a push like that. If not you're just going to get a few branches from close to the cut area.

Here is my ficus progression in one year. From Aug 21 - Aug 22.

ficus branch.JPG


1658600715814.jpeg


1658600777090.jpeg


1661718568023.jpeg
thanks, going strong in a short time frame, hope mine do the same
 
Top Bottom