Field-grown trident

[markyscott]

 

[markyscott]

Sacrifice has done its job. Wound from the last chop is pretty much healed. April 2016 vs July 2019:

 

[markyscott]

Sacrifice is not needed any longer. I removed it and cut back hard to new growth. I wired a few of the smaller shoots that had emerged. Here’s a picture after the work:

 

[Milly]

Thanks for taking so much effort with your posts @markyscott. Really appreciate it.
Read through your 'dormant spraying' posts in the resources as well. Thanks a stack.

 

[markyscott]

Three weeks after summer work.

 

[Smoke]

I have explained it till I'm blue in the face. Since you have an uncanny ability to talk to the forum here, maybe you could explain why this tree will have to have a wizard hat? Some here seem to find that derogatory.

 

[just.wing.it]

I have explained it till I'm blue in the face. Since you have an uncanny ability to talk to the forum here, maybe you could explain why this tree will have to have a wizard hat? Some here seem to find that derogatory.

Maybe that explanation is in order....

 

[markyscott]

I have explained it till I'm blue in the face. Since you have an uncanny ability to talk to the forum here, maybe you could explain why this tree will have to have a wizard hat? Some here seem to find that derogatory.

I’m not offended. This tree started out as a trunk - one that I built to be rather short with a dramatic taper. Not quite a sumo, but definitely exaggerated relative to most natural trees I see. Given the trunk, one makes an artistic choice about how to arrange the branches around it. In this case I felt that this style best fit this particular trunk. Others might have made different stylistic choices. Heck, if I were to restart the project today I might have made different choices too. We all learn and grow with our experience in the art and I like all sorts of different trees. So vive la différence. The important thing is this - no matter what the orientation of the branch relative to the trunk, a convincing one has a bunch of characteristics in common. And the techniques we use to build those characteristics is all the same. To build caliper we let it grow. To build movement and taper, we cut back and wire. Build branches from the inside out. That’s really pretty much all we’ve got. Learn how to do that well while keeping the tree healthy and one can build a bonsai in any style you like.

Scott

 

[Smoke]

I’m not offended. This tree started out as a trunk - one that I built to be rather short with a dramatic taper. Not quite a sumo, but definitely exaggerated relative to most natural trees I see. Given the trunk, one makes an artistic choice about how to arrange the branches around it. In this case I felt that this style best fit this particular trunk. Others might have made different stylistic choices. Heck, if I were to restart the project today I might have made different choices too. We all learn and grow with our experience in the art and I like all sorts of different trees. So vive la différence. The important thing is this - no matter what the orientation of the branch relative to the trunk, a convincing one has a bunch of characteristics in common. And the techniques we use to build those characteristics is all the same. To build caliper we let it grow. To build movement and taper, we cut back and wire. Build branches from the inside out. That’s really pretty much all we’ve got. Learn how to do that well while keeping the tree healthy and one can build a bonsai in any style you like.

Scott

Good. You heard it here from a guy that is building a tree. There are only two ways to build branches on a maple. Wizard hats, and spreading oak. How you set the trunk up is how the branches get arranged.

 

[coh]

Good. You heard it here from a guy that is building a tree. There are only two ways to build branches on a maple. Wizard hats, and spreading oak. How you set the trunk up is how the branches get arranged.

What about informal broom? You know, maples that look like...maples?

 

[markyscott]

What about informal broom? You know, maples that look like...maples?

Hi coh. You can build a maple in any style appropriate to the trunk you are presented with. I think Al is referring to the initial angle of the branch away from the trunk. You can give them a downward angle like a pine - that’s the way I built this tree. Or you can give them an upward angle more like a deciduous hardwood. There are a plethora of “bonsai styles” but that initial choice is critical for determining what form your tree will ultimately take. And once it’s made you’re done - very difficult to redo. Well actually easy. Just cut off all the branches and start over. But I don’t think I would with this tree - with the exaggerated taper, it’s (moderately) on the sumo spectrum and I like branches pulled down on those in order to maintain a compact profile and keep interest around the trunk. But that’s a style choice. Techniques are all the same.

S

 

[coh]

Hi coh. You can build a maple in any style appropriate to the trunk you are presented with. I think Al is referring to the initial angle of the branch away from the trunk. You can give them a downward angle like a pine - that’s the way I built this tree. Or you can give them an upward angle more like a deciduous hardwood. There are a plethora of “bonsai styles” but that initial choice is critical for determining what form your tree will ultimately take. And once it’s made you’re done - very difficult to redo. Well actually easy. Just cut off all the branches and start over. But I don’t think I would with this tree - with the exaggerated taper, it’s (moderately) on the sumo spectrum and I like branches pulled down on those in order to maintain a compact profile and keep interest around the trunk. But that’s a style choice. Techniques are all the same.

S

Fair enough, but the quote was "There are only two ways to build branches on a maple. Wizard hats, and spreading oak. " Which of course is not true. Probably the more accurate way to phrase it would have been something like "How you set the trunk up is how the branches get arranged. On a trunk like this, there are only two ways to build branches on a maple. Wizard hats, and spreading oak." Though I'm not really sure that this trunk would support a spreading oak style very well. Anyway...

I like the photo from July 14. The structure is really developing nicely. My guess is that you won't let this get too much taller, right? So it won't really look too much like a wizard hat!

 

[one_bonsai]

See? Now we can wire that new leader into place to build the next branch segment.


On broadleaf trees, I like to build branches like this - from the inside out by cutting back in early spring before bud break and in late spring after hardening.

On Page 5 you show how you cut to a new shoot which you will then wire. Do you then let that shoot harden, then cut back to the first node of that shoot?

I'm new to maples so I'm a bit confused.

 

[markyscott]

On Page 5 you show how you cut to a new shoot which you will then wire. Do you then let that shoot harden, then cut back to the first node of that shoot?

Hi OB. It really just depends on what you’re doing. If you’re trying to build caliper, let it grow. If you’re trying to create movement or taper, cut back. If your objective is to lengthen the branch, cut back to an upward facing shoot. If your objective is to build ramification, cut back to lateral shoots.

S

 

[Smoke]

Just cut off all the branches and start over. But I don’t think I would with this tree - with the exaggerated taper, it’s (moderately) on the sumo spectrum and ( and I like branches pulled down on those in order to maintain a compact profile and keep interest around the trunk.)

I don't see any sumo qualities here, nor do I see any taper on half the trunk at least. In fact there is some waist to it in the middle and a root on the bottom that makes up 25% percent of the front view.

I have circled the root in red, showed the waisting in the trunk. There is virtually no taper in the bottom half, and the top half looks better. Ever think about layering the top out for shohin and chopping the shit out of that untapered bottom?



Sometimes you have to cut your loss and make lemonaid.



15 gallon wastebasket

 

[one_bonsai]

If you’re trying to build caliper, let it grow. If you’re trying to create movement or taper, cut back. If your objective is to lengthen the branch, cut back to an upward facing shoot. If your objective is to build ramification, cut back to lateral shoots.

I see. And all of the above is done after the first flush of grow has hardened?

 

[markyscott]

There is virtually no taper in the bottom half, and the top half looks better. Ever think about layering the top out for shohin and chopping the shit out of that untapered bottom?

Actually, yes I have thought of layering for exactly those reasons. Lesson for me was to be more aggressive with the first chop. I chopped at 6”. Should have chopped at 2”.

S

 

[markyscott]

I see. And all of the above is done after the first flush of grow has hardened?

On tridents, you can prune anytime. The concept of hardening, for me, is when the growth is mature enough to wire without damaging the soft growth.

S

 

[Smoke]

Actually, yes I have thought of layering for exactly those reasons. Lesson for me was to be more aggressive with the first chop. I chopped at 6”. Should have chopped at 2”.

S

Are we talking about post 5? The place where you agreed and then did not take the advice.

 

[0soyoung]

Start over ...