Field Maple Problems
- Thread starter rollwithak
- Start date
cbroad
Omono
I'm not positive but it looks like thrips damage
rollwithak
Chumono
Hmmmmm. How the hell can I check for that?
cbroad
Omono
Haha I honestly can't really tell what's going on... The flecking on the leaf just reminded me of it.
I think you can check for them like with mites, shake a branch over a white piece of paper.
I think you can check for them like with mites, shake a branch over a white piece of paper.
rollwithak
Chumono
JohnFranklin - Zone 7b
Yamadori
If you have one of those powerful eye magnifiers, you should see them if it is bugs. If no bugs, I always figured it's fungus, especially on maples. I think all maples need to be treated for fungus at bud break and several other times in the spring.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
I typed in maple leaves problem in images...and clicked on the a couple that had similar color as yours.
Environmental stress? https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/deciduous/maple/leavesedges.html
Sunscorch? *Image of the sugar maple.
Environmental stress? https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/deciduous/maple/leavesedges.html
Sunscorch? *Image of the sugar maple.
rollwithak
Chumono
I actually had seen this page too.... just the way in which the patterns were showing up made me feel like it was something to do with the roots. Some kind of fungal or deficiency. I have fertilized it lightly so I don’t think there would be too much salt build up at this point as they’ve only been in pots less than a year.
I took them out of the direst sun and am going to keep an eye on how they respond. Might eventually use a treatment on them if they don’t get better.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Direct sun...Morning or afternoon may I ask? My maples stay in early morning sun. Not all, but many can't take the heat...and I see your from California. I know nothing of your location...other than it's warmer than my climate. Heat of summer, they move to shade. Wish you the best.
rollwithak
Chumono
All of this week is in the 100’s. So perhaps it is the fact that it had midday to afternoon sun. I thought these would be a bit hardier than say a Japanese maple. We’ll see !
Cheers!
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
That very well could have been the issue then! WOW...that's crazy hot...All of this week is in the 100’s. So perhaps it is the fact that it had midday to afternoon sun. I thought these would be a bit hardier than say a Japanese maple. We’ll see !
Cheers!
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
I am going to sneek into this thread because there is a lot of bad information being posted here. It started with a guy suggesting horticultural oil which will kill a plant in this kind of heat and should never be used on a plant below 40 degrees nor over 85 degrees. It has a very narrow band of effectiveness, if any, I despise the stuff.
Then we come to the heat. Everyone thinks heat is the bane of maples. It is if you don't know what your doing. If you have no idea how to handle heat with a maple it will be weak and succumb to disease in a hurry. The bugs will move in and they will eat up whats left.
The heat here has been rather hot, but not unusual at all. It's been hotter, and will probably get there in July and August when it can get to 110 occasionally. As far as I'm concerned when it gets to 103 it all feels the same. When you step out side it hits you in the face like a sledge hammer. Set your oven on 105 and then open the door and stick your head inside if you wish to know what it feels like.
It has been 103 yesterday, 105 today and tomorrow and 107 Saturday. I have maples in direct sun all day, 13,14 hours of unbearable heat bearing down on fragile maples.
These three tridents sit in the sun all day. This is a close up of the leaves.
Take all the leaves off immediately. They are making the plant worse. Once all the leaves are off, alternate between these two sprays weekly, spraying all of the trunk, covering the soil with a cloth or paper. Do this until all the leaves come back out. When you reach that point, cut back and alternate the spray monthly spraying the entire tree, leaves and trunk, with the soil covered. Water the tree adequately, I water 5 times a day right now with the heat. If you miss a watering, the plant will weaken and no matter how much you spray the fungus will come right back. I live in the same town, I know what is going on, it has taken many years to get to the point of keeping maples flawless in this environment. It can be done, but you have to work at it, and you can't let up...let up and all the work you did is for not.
Ok going back to just read now, but I do feel better setting the record straight from someone from the area that knows what is going on.
People if you don't live in 105 degree heat for maybe a month straight sometimes, why would anyone comment on a maple in Fresno????? You can't possibly know what it's like growing plants here!!! The things I highlighted are important. Apply them Exactly as directed
Then we come to the heat. Everyone thinks heat is the bane of maples. It is if you don't know what your doing. If you have no idea how to handle heat with a maple it will be weak and succumb to disease in a hurry. The bugs will move in and they will eat up whats left.
The heat here has been rather hot, but not unusual at all. It's been hotter, and will probably get there in July and August when it can get to 110 occasionally. As far as I'm concerned when it gets to 103 it all feels the same. When you step out side it hits you in the face like a sledge hammer. Set your oven on 105 and then open the door and stick your head inside if you wish to know what it feels like.
It has been 103 yesterday, 105 today and tomorrow and 107 Saturday. I have maples in direct sun all day, 13,14 hours of unbearable heat bearing down on fragile maples.
These three tridents sit in the sun all day. This is a close up of the leaves.
Take all the leaves off immediately. They are making the plant worse. Once all the leaves are off, alternate between these two sprays weekly, spraying all of the trunk, covering the soil with a cloth or paper. Do this until all the leaves come back out. When you reach that point, cut back and alternate the spray monthly spraying the entire tree, leaves and trunk, with the soil covered. Water the tree adequately, I water 5 times a day right now with the heat. If you miss a watering, the plant will weaken and no matter how much you spray the fungus will come right back. I live in the same town, I know what is going on, it has taken many years to get to the point of keeping maples flawless in this environment. It can be done, but you have to work at it, and you can't let up...let up and all the work you did is for not.
Ok going back to just read now, but I do feel better setting the record straight from someone from the area that knows what is going on.
People if you don't live in 105 degree heat for maybe a month straight sometimes, why would anyone comment on a maple in Fresno????? You can't possibly know what it's like growing plants here!!! The things I highlighted are important. Apply them Exactly as directed
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rollwithak
Chumono
Smoke, thanks for chiming one because o know you’re dealing with the exact environment. I will defoliate, and when you say to alternate between these sprays, how frequently are you talking? Once a day, every day?
I still gotta come by and visit. I texted you a few weeks back but never heard back. Hope all is well sir. Thanks again for the input.
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Once a day weekly, once a day monthly. Sorry I thought this was common knowledge but I see I need to be more specific!
I added smiley's so as to not seem like a jerk......
I added smiley's so as to not seem like a jerk......
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Never got a text and you may have an old phone number before I retired. I have no idea where you would have gotten it in the first place, unless thru a PM here. Been at the hospital three days this week so catching me between visits is tricky
JohnFranklin - Zone 7b
Yamadori
RE.. Smoke....
Ideally....knowing the cause is best and hopefully one of the veterans here will know...but perhaps you could look into using this product as it useful for a variety of pests and some fungus....including thrips.
I suggested looking into using this product...it has a clear disclaimer regarding its use in terms of temperature. The OP could easily figure out that the product would not work in his climate. In addition your delivery is interesting, how about "I don't like the product and given its temperature requirements it is not a good fit for Fresno's climate"....or how about "Unless you have experience growing maples in Fresno temperatures (100+ degrees on a recurring basis), I would be very cautious in providing suggestions in caring for Maples here". My belief is people would get your point. You clearly know your *%$# when it comes to all matters, bonsai especially in your climate.....people can certainly learn a lot from you and I am sure they do....but that delivery, in my opinion and only my opinion, could be tempered a bit.....By the way, I don't think you "snuck" into this thread.
Ideally....knowing the cause is best and hopefully one of the veterans here will know...but perhaps you could look into using this product as it useful for a variety of pests and some fungus....including thrips.
I suggested looking into using this product...it has a clear disclaimer regarding its use in terms of temperature. The OP could easily figure out that the product would not work in his climate. In addition your delivery is interesting, how about "I don't like the product and given its temperature requirements it is not a good fit for Fresno's climate"....or how about "Unless you have experience growing maples in Fresno temperatures (100+ degrees on a recurring basis), I would be very cautious in providing suggestions in caring for Maples here". My belief is people would get your point. You clearly know your *%$# when it comes to all matters, bonsai especially in your climate.....people can certainly learn a lot from you and I am sure they do....but that delivery, in my opinion and only my opinion, could be tempered a bit.....By the way, I don't think you "snuck" into this thread.
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
I just put you on ignore because you are ignorant. Now I don't have to listen to your whining....snowflake....
You made the recommendation from Maryland, then knowing full well (after my insight) that it is useless here...Man up and own it. You are either right or wrong...which are you? Instead of an apology you come in and tell me I'm an assbag. Information on forums from people that don't know what the hell their talking about is worse than not saying anything at all....
Remember that next time...saying nothing at all. You'll sound smarter, now everyone here knows you don't know anything.
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JohnFranklin - Zone 7b
Yamadori
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Just in case someone thinks they know better, here are a few warnings from around the internet concerning Hort. oils.
Plants that may be
sensitive to oil include:
;Beech
;Black Walnut
;Maples
;Hickory
;Smoke Tree
;Douglas Fir
;Japanese Holly
;Cryptomeria
; Azalea
; Redbud
; Blue Spruce
;Others as listed on
the label
Oil-Sensitive Plants
Various labels and entomologists suggest various plants as being susceptible to oils
such as maples, particularly Japanese and red maple; hickories and black walnut;
plume cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) and smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria). Redbud,
junipers, cedars, spruce and Douglas firs are listed as being somewhat sensitive.
Oil Sensitive Plants
Plant and Time of Treatment
Maples (Japanese, Silver, Sugar - Dormant
Hickories - Dormant
Black Walnut, Japanese Walnut - Dormant
Cryptomeria - Anytime
Plants that may be
sensitive to oil include:
;Beech
;Black Walnut
;Maples
;Hickory
;Smoke Tree
;Douglas Fir
;Japanese Holly
;Cryptomeria
; Azalea
; Redbud
; Blue Spruce
;Others as listed on
the label
Oil-Sensitive Plants
Various labels and entomologists suggest various plants as being susceptible to oils
such as maples, particularly Japanese and red maple; hickories and black walnut;
plume cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) and smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria). Redbud,
junipers, cedars, spruce and Douglas firs are listed as being somewhat sensitive.
Oil Sensitive Plants
Plant and Time of Treatment
Maples (Japanese, Silver, Sugar - Dormant
Hickories - Dormant
Black Walnut, Japanese Walnut - Dormant
Cryptomeria - Anytime
