First Air Layer Attempt

bobbywett

Mame
Messages
172
Reaction score
71
Location
Hershey, PA Plant Zone 6b South Central PA
USDA Zone
6b
Hello Everyone,

I’m getting ready to attempt my first ever air layer on some ugly nursery stock I picked up a couple years ago. Initially I hoped to style it as literati, but the graft is just too ugly and now I believe it will be a great candidate for an air graft. I was planning on air layering her where the blue lines are in the one image.

I have a few questions:

. When would be the best time to start? The buds are swelling right now, but have yet to break. Should I wait a bit longer?

. Should I purchase one of the air laying kits, or is there another method that would work better?

. Is there a special rooting hormone I should apply?

https://etsy.me/2RSsMnM

. Is there a special cutting tool that I could purchase, or should I just use a box cutter? How should I sanitize my grafting tools?

. Should the tree be treated any differently after grafting ie ... kept in shade, out of the harsh wind, fertilized less or more?

. How many months does it typically take to grow sufficient roots for repotting and what soil should I repot in?

. I live in Hershey, PA my zone is 6B for reference


Thanks for any help,

BobbyF8BEF3A8-B3AD-4669-937C-764080FD3B45.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 70B597A2-1AD4-4B1E-9C2C-8AB12934BE35.jpeg
    70B597A2-1AD4-4B1E-9C2C-8AB12934BE35.jpeg
    304 KB · Views: 8
  • 31CA661B-6A93-44EC-AD09-B166C309B83E.jpeg
    31CA661B-6A93-44EC-AD09-B166C309B83E.jpeg
    93.3 KB · Views: 10
  • EC80CEB5-187A-44CF-89B9-51C816512197.jpeg
    EC80CEB5-187A-44CF-89B9-51C816512197.jpeg
    167.4 KB · Views: 10

Rivian

Chumono
Messages
883
Reaction score
725
Location
DE
USDA Zone
6
When would be the best time to start? The buds are swelling right now, but have yet to break. Should I wait a bit longer?
May
Should I purchase one of the air laying kits
No it works great with free/ household material
Is there a special cutting tool that I could purchase
No, just use a sturdy, sharp knife
How should I sanitize my grafting tools?
You can use ethanol but it works often even without sanitising to that extent
Should the tree be treated any differently after grafting ie ... kept in shade, out of the harsh wind, fertilized less or more?
Nah
How many months does it typically take to grow sufficient roots for repotting
1-3
what soil should I repot in?
Free draining, I killed an airlayer by not doing so last year


Dont separate too early. Straight palmatum layers well though.
Good luck
 

SeanS

Omono
Messages
1,241
Reaction score
3,484
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa (SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE)
USDA Zone
9b
I did my first air layers this season (southern hemisphere so we’re still in the growing season, approaching fall now). I was 100% successful with 8 layers in Japanese maples. Started them just as the spring foliage hardened off, and a few more in early summer. They all took between 8-9 weeks before separation.

Here’s my thread
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,053
Reaction score
27,392
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
Don't overthink it.

Aim: Remove the bark, and the cambium layer, do NOT go deep into the wood
Cover the bark above the cut with a medium that holds moisture & air
Keep the substrate moist
Wait.

No need to keep it sterile.

After removing the bark, it helps to keep the cut area open to the air for an hour or so, this way you will kill of anny last cambium cells and reduce the bridging over risks

 

SeanS

Omono
Messages
1,241
Reaction score
3,484
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa (SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE)
USDA Zone
9b
One thing I will definitely be doing with future layers on maples is applying a wire tourniquet butted right up against the top cut. I saw @SantaFeBonsai had amazing results with a flaring buttress on one of his layers in a thread of his, hopefully he can post a photo here
 

bobbywett

Mame
Messages
172
Reaction score
71
Location
Hershey, PA Plant Zone 6b South Central PA
USDA Zone
6b
I did my first air layers this season (southern hemisphere so we’re still in the growing season, approaching fall now). I was 100% successful with 8 layers in Japanese maples. Started them just as the spring foliage hardened off, and a few more in early summer. They all took between 8-9 weeks before separation.

Here’s my thread
Thank You
 

bobbywett

Mame
Messages
172
Reaction score
71
Location
Hershey, PA Plant Zone 6b South Central PA
USDA Zone
6b
Don't overthink it.

Aim: Remove the bark, and the cambium layer, do NOT go deep into the wood
Cover the bark above the cut with a medium that holds moisture & air
Keep the substrate moist
Wait.

No need to keep it sterile.

After removing the bark, it helps to keep the cut area open to the air for an hour or so, this way you will kill of anny last cambium cells and reduce the bridging over risks

Thanks for the link!
 

bobbywett

Mame
Messages
172
Reaction score
71
Location
Hershey, PA Plant Zone 6b South Central PA
USDA Zone
6b
Would this kit make it easier to attempt my 1st air layer, or should I just use clear plastic sheeting, sphagnum, and wire ties? what about rooting hormone for Japanese maples, should I use it or forgo?

There’s so much conflicting info out there.

 

BonsaiGnome

Sapling
Messages
25
Reaction score
28
Location
Columbia, SC
Would this kit make it easier to attempt my 1st air layer, or should I just use clear plastic sheeting, sphagnum, and wire ties? what about rooting hormone for Japanese maples, should I use it or forgo?

There’s so much conflicting info out there.

Keep it simple.
Follow the basic steps and you should have success.
Go for it, you got this!
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,053
Reaction score
27,392
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
There really is little reason for concern.

Main problem is not removing the bark completely, leading to the wound healing over. Some people therefor go overboard, and beaver the cut area. No need. If you take a sharp knife and cut into the bark of japanese maple, you will hit the wood with a little force. Remove the bark. Scratch with the knife down from the top cut to reove the juicy cells that sit between the bark and the wood. Let it dry for half an hour or so. Then cover with moist NOT WET substrate. Leave it alone, except for ensuring the substrate does not dry. Let the top of the tree grow as much as it wants. After 6 weeks normal green AP should have the first roots.
 

Ohmy222

Shohin
Messages
454
Reaction score
617
Location
Marietta, GA
Viridis is a dissectum type (weeping type) maple. You can still layer them but generally take longer and many are weak on their roots. I have no experience with this cultivar but just letting you know.
 
Top Bottom