First Boxwood

AboveBeyond

Shohin
Messages
332
Reaction score
110
Location
Boston, MA
USDA Zone
6a
I just picked up this "Wintergreen" Buxus microphylla at a garden center. It immediately caught my eyes because of the twin trunk and nebari. The trunk is about 2.5 inches and it's currently a huge bush measuring at 30inches tall and 36 inches wide.

Since I'm new to boxwood, is it okay to repot now or wait until next spring (I'm seeing that either times are fine?). If I do repot now, can I start pruning back the branches or wait until next spring?

Close up

boxwood1.jpg

Left trunk
boxwood2.jpg

Right Trunk
boxwood3.jpg

Full view
boxwood4.jpg
 

KennedyMarx

Omono
Messages
1,708
Reaction score
427
Location
Indiana (Zone 6a)
USDA Zone
6a
I cut back hard, but left foliage on branches, and the boxwood shot out a lot of new growth. It was very surprising the way that they have a reputation for slow growth. These weren't Kingsville. I didn't repot or reduce the rootball in any way, but I think I should have removed the bottom half of the root ball and put it back in the cut down pot. The bottom stayed too wet while the top area dried out quickly. So yeah, I've killed a couple of them. I still have one that I'm going to make into a skinny little shohin, eventually.
 

larlamonde

Shohin
Messages
250
Reaction score
22
Location
Pittsburgh
I just picked up this "Wintergreen" Buxus microphylla at a garden center. It immediately caught my eyes because of the twin trunk and nebari. The trunk is about 2.5 inches and it's currently a huge bush measuring at 30inches tall and 36 inches wide.

Since I'm new to boxwood, is it okay to repot now or wait until next spring (I'm seeing that either times are fine?). If I do repot now, can I start pruning back the branches or wait until next spring?

Close up

View attachment 75730

Left trunk
View attachment 75731

Right Trunk
View attachment 75732

Full view
View attachment 75733
In my experience you can pretty do anything you want to these trees with the proper aftercare. Accept in the hottest days of summer. Of course practicing within basic rules of horticulture.
 

AboveBeyond

Shohin
Messages
332
Reaction score
110
Location
Boston, MA
USDA Zone
6a
Here's pics after pruning. I need to refine it some more but I'm calling it a day in the meantime.

Boxwood5.jpg

Boxwood6.jpg
 
Last edited:

GrimLore

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Messages
8,502
Reaction score
7,453
Location
South East PA
USDA Zone
6b
Here's pics after pruning. I need to refine it some more but I'm calling it a day in the meantime.

Nice find! I did a first refinement on one much smaller Saturday - took 4 hours to thin it out and prune :eek: It was originally just 12 inches tall and in a 1 1/2 quart container. While taking off at least 85 percent of the foliage I decided to check the root mass. I found the entire pot to be pretty much just roots! Another hour or so later I managed to get the roots reduced and the goofy thing into a 8 x 5 1/2 x 3 inch deep trainer with some drain stone and organic mix. You have a great start there and decent stock so find the time and patience - it will be worth it ;)

Grimmy
 

Brian Van Fleet

Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Messages
13,992
Reaction score
46,133
Location
B’ham, AL
USDA Zone
8A
That may be a BIT much, but it needs to be much shorter than it is and there are too many trunks by about 1/3.
I'll restate: your chance of a convincing, powerful bonsai is down there. Don't make the mistake of leaving long straight trunk and branch sections. You can thank me later.
 

ColinFraser

Masterpiece
Messages
2,370
Reaction score
5,699
Location
Central Coast, California
USDA Zone
9b
I'll restate: your chance of a convincing, powerful bonsai is down there. Don't make the mistake of leaving long straight trunk and branch sections. You can thank me later.
Precisely what I was thinking. Why remove the lowest growth, when it's everything but that which should go?
 

Brian Van Fleet

Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Messages
13,992
Reaction score
46,133
Location
B’ham, AL
USDA Zone
8A
Precisely what I was thinking. Why remove the lowest growth, when it's everything but that which should go?
It's very common to see this. People try to open up the design to reveal the inner branching, because that's what bonsai looks like. Problem is, the work needs to start with that inner branching, and done right building movement and taper, the foliage pads are built later on that inner branching. Otherwise after 20 years of work, you end up with this: not a bad tree, it always wins viewer's choice, but it's more indicative of someone's idea of bonsai:

image.jpg
Instead, you should be striving now to compact the design, develop visible taper, movement, and tight branching. Later, you can reveal some of that earlier work and it will have more interest.
 

AboveBeyond

Shohin
Messages
332
Reaction score
110
Location
Boston, MA
USDA Zone
6a
I originally wanted to make it around a 12-14 inch tree and was going to reduce it. Right now, it's probably around 16-18inches. But seeing the recommendations, iI'll reduce it to the around 10inches. I didn't think it through thoroughly, so I cut too much lower growth.. a lesson learned for me.

How's the virtual below in red (taking the same starting point from Brian)? I'll probabl have to make it a little bit higher (in blue) until new growth develop on the bottom.

Boxwood_mock1.jpg
 

coh

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,782
Reaction score
6,824
Location
Rochester, NY
USDA Zone
6
It's very common to see this. People try to open up the design to reveal the inner branching, because that's what bonsai looks like. Problem is, the work needs to start with that inner branching, and done right building movement and taper, the foliage pads are built later on that inner branching. Otherwise after 20 years of work, you end up with this: not a bad tree, it always wins viewer's choice, but it's more indicative of someone's idea of bonsai:

View attachment 75754
Instead, you should be striving now to compact the design, develop visible taper, movement, and tight branching. Later, you can reveal some of that earlier work and it will have more interest.

Funny, that bonsai certainly has some flaws, but it looks more like a real tree (old oak style) than most. I'll take it!

One thing it doesn't have is long, straight, boring trunk segments.
 

jk_lewis

Masterpiece
Messages
3,817
Reaction score
1,165
Location
Western NC
USDA Zone
7-8
My tree. Old oak style:
 

Attachments

  • LATE_005.JPG
    LATE_005.JPG
    62.4 KB · Views: 49

GrimLore

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Messages
8,502
Reaction score
7,453
Location
South East PA
USDA Zone
6b
How's the virtual below in red (taking the same starting point from Brian)? I'll probabl have to make it a little bit higher (in blue) until new growth develop on the bottom.

That's a plan ;) I forgot to mention that if you find your hands itch a lot after working it that they are slightly toxic and you can get a light rash. I does not seem to bother most people including myself. You might however make it a habit to place a small trash bin to drop clippings into while working for later disposal. When eaten by a child or pet they can cause some "discomfort" :eek:

Grimmy
 

AboveBeyond

Shohin
Messages
332
Reaction score
110
Location
Boston, MA
USDA Zone
6a
I've pruned it down further 5 inches to 12 inches tall (17 inches tall from initial prune and 32 inches tall from nursery). I'll let it grow for a year or so until there's more foliage at the bottom. I'll ultimately end up pruning it down to a 8-10 inch tree.

boxwood8.jpg
 
Top Bottom