First Shimpaku's

[Dirty Nails]

I picked up these 2 Shimpaku's last week for $45 total. These are my first ones and I am OPEN to critique and comments. I did not touch the roots as it is late so I worked the top. The scond had a large branch which I snapped off. I guess you don't know how far you can bend until you've gone too far. In addition to the damage done here I have 30 cuttings started (I love propogation). Thanks for looking.

 

[october]

I like that you got right in there and worked these trees. Don't worry about breaking a branch, happens to everyone. The best thing now is to just wait a couple years ( I know, long time) for them to recover. I nthat time, the small branches will gain strength and yo ucan sut back more. Also, you bonsai eye will be more refined so both the tree and you will have new options to work with. Next season, maybe repot these. If you want, you can do slightly oversized pots so they continue to grow well, but also so they are more pleasing to look at. However, if that is not a concern, then maybe grow pots for a couple of years.

p.s. Are you aware of the super glue fix for broken branches? If you break a branch but don't snap it completely off, it is absolutely fixable. Put a small dab in the middle of break, where the heart wood is, then press the branch back together. Try to not get the glue on the outer layer, just in the center, like a bulls eye. The bond will be very strong. You can continue to do work after the glue sets, maybe 30 minutes just to make sure. However, hold where the break is so that area is not disturbed.

Rob

 

[Poink88]

Rob,

Should you "splint" that fix also or the super glue alone is sufficient? Thanks.

 

[october]

Rob,

Should you "splint" that fix also or the super glue alone is sufficient? Thanks.

Nope, no need to wrap or splint or do anything. The key is getting the dab of glue right in the center of the break on the dead wood. This way, the cambium can fuse back together as well. If you do attempt to go back and work on the branch that day, just be sure to hold the area with the break.

Rob

 

[october]

p.s. A virt for repairing the branch.

Rob

 

[Dirty Nails]

Thanks Rob for the tip. I did not know that. It is the reason I posted this new project.
No problem on patience I have that in spades. I was thinking late next winter reduce the roots, put it in a grow box and let it develop for as long as it takes.

 

[october]

Thanks Rob for the tip. I did not know that. It is the reason I posted this new project.
No problem on patience I have that in spades. I was thinking late next winter reduce the roots, put it in a grow box and let it develop for as long as it takes.

Sounds good. After the root work next year, protect the trees from cold temperatures.

Rob

 

[Poink88]

Sounds good. After the root work next year, protect the trees from cold temperatures.

Rob, I will eventually work on juni's...please define cold temp for me in this context. Thanks.

 

[october]

Rob, I will eventually work on juni's...please define cold temp for me in this context. Thanks.

Since you are in texas, probably not as big a concern for you. However, my practices and the practices at the nursery... Usually no colder than low 50's degrees F.

Thats why Spring repotting timing is so important. Repotting trees right when the temps start to be consistently in the 50's.

Now, of course these are conifers, so they will most likely be ok even when the temps might drop to lower than that. The main thing is to keep the trees from near freezing of freezing temps. I think that in this part of the country, we have to be a bit on the more protective side. It can be pretty cold around here, even in May.

Rob

 

[Bill S]

Rob, Texas has been worse than we are for winters lately.

I guess it depend where you are but I have had no issues working juniper repots into June. I am not nice when I get in there either, but I do spend a lot of time undoing root knots with my fingers, to open up root balls, rather than root hooks, there will be no dirt left either.

 

[october]

Rob, Texas has been worse than we are for winters lately.

I guess it depend where you are but I have had no issues working juniper repots into June. I am not nice when I get in there either, but I do spend a lot of time undoing root knots with my fingers, to open up root balls, rather than root hooks, there will be no dirt left either.

Hi Bill... Yup, I do the same thing, never use a root hook and remove almost all the dirt. Also, yes, I try to cut the repotting off when June hits, but I will absolutely do it, if it needs it or I think it is a good time for it. I mean, it is weird around here. We have almost no Spring and then, BAM, it's Summer. If you really adhered to traditional repotting schedules around here.. You would have like a window of 48 hours..lol... In between the hours of 2-4 pm.

Rob

 

[Dav4]

I've re-potted junipers in late April here in GA when the temps were in the mid 80's and the trees never skipped a beat. I've re-potted junipers in late February here in GA when the temps didn't get out of the 40's for weeks on end, and fell close to and below freezing almost every night with the soil actaully freezing solid on several occasions..... so far so good. If I had to pick a time, I'd do it when it was warmer rather then colder, as the roots will be metabolically active, and be able to deal with the trauma of the re-pot and be less likely to suffer from root rot. The bottom line is that junipers are extremely tough, resilient, and survive alot of abuse....and once you get a juniper into 100% inorganic soil with turface, pumice, and lava, it's basically a bare rooting every time you re-pot, whether that was the intention or not...but they don't care.

 

[Dirty Nails]

June in Mass. is like April or early May in Nashville. Which is why I opted to leave them in the nursery pots until next March/April. I checked and they aren't root bound either. If they were I would have gone ahead and done it and waited on such drastic styling.

 

[xray360]

Anyone interested you could repot in August depending on your location. I have tried it with one of my junipers and it's doing fine, but I did not do major work on it last year or any root work other than 1/3rd soil change.

"
Repot in April, do not repot or root-prune too early in the year. Can also be very successfully repotted during the warmth and humidity of August, however avoid repotting during very hot days."

- bonsai4me.com

 

[Jason_mazzy]

That virt was awesome lol. You rock for taking the time to draw that out

 

[Vance Wood]

You can do any of the Chinese Juniper species, which includes the Shimpakus, any time of the year except when the soil is frozen too hard to work with. I have done Shimakus when the weather was in the high 90's.

 

[Dav4]

You can do any of the Chinese Juniper species, which includes the Shimpakus, any time of the year except when the soil is frozen too hard to work with. I have done Shimakus when the weather was in the high 90's.

Vance is right...it's all about the aftercare.

 

[october]

I have also repotted junipers later in the season. When I referenced timing, it was more of a convenience issue. I usually repot when I don't have to worry that much about after repotting freezes/snow storms. It's not like a maple or larch where there is a window for health reasons.

Rob

 

[Dirty Nails]

So can I still repot now after the heavy topside work I have done?

 

[Poink88]

So can I still repot now after the heavy topside work I have done?

In my mind, single insult per growing season kicks in but not sure if "an insult" has a window that will cover yours since top work was done just last week. I would love to hear what the experts say.