[FL] Any species that can be collected (yamadori) at this point in the year? If no, when?

[SU2]

I'm still very confused on this topic, all of my trees are collected and I'd originally thought I had to do this 'ideally' in spring, but that with stuff like bougies/crapes I could do it much later (and that panned-out)

I thought fall was a no-no for collecting, but was told by someone I highly respect in this area (who lives in my region) that this is actually a good time for Oaks, as, after the rainy season, they've got the densest root-ball under their trunk that they'll have all year; when it gets drier, it relies more upon extended roots. This seems to have worked (I collected an oak ~2wks ago and it's looking good still, it was trunk-chopped maybe 3mo ago so had re-grown a few ~5' branches), so now I'm wondering- is it over for the season or are there others I should consider? I can't do more oaks as I didn't prepare anymore (ie I'd have to do their trunk-chop and collection at same time, doubt they'd survive that..), but would love to get a couple more specimen if at all possible!!

Thanks

 

[Anthony]

Hackberry, hacccccckkkkkbeeeeerrrryyyyyyyyy

Seedlings grow very fast.......................

 

[Timbo]

https://bonsai-south.com/2017/01/
He collects is Jan not sure about Nov.
If it didn't get so cold up here so fast i'd collect more in fall also.

 

[M. Frary]

https://bonsai-south.com/2017/01/
He collects is Jan not sure about Nov.
If it didn't get so cold up here so fast i'd collect more in fall also.

Like in spring you only have about a 2 week window up here.

 

[Timbo]

I have no exp down there it just seems it wouldn't be that risky.
What's the coldest? Maybe 28? Either way i'd wait until any risk of freezing is gone.
Can't you dig up evergreens year round?
I suppose you still have to worry about root rot.
I mean your projected lowest day is 52 for the next 2 months LOL.
I'm depressed.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

You can collect anytime, it is only the probability of success that varies. If your after care is good, success will usually be well above zero. If aftercare is less than adequate, even in the ideal time, success can be low.

The ideal time to collect will vary by local climate and species involved. You already mentioned the best resource for answering this question, a local experienced grower. Even your local landscape nursery will be able to tell you what transplants well this time of year, collecting is similar to transplanting, except in collecting there is a radical root reduction. Trust your local experts rather than internet pundits like myself living a thousand miles away.

I've often collected "out of season", and sometimes would loose half or more of what I collect, sometimes everything. . Collecting in the ideal season is critical for one of a kind, rare specimens. For run of the mill trees, if you loose some, it is no big deal.

So check with your local experts, and make improvements to your after care, and you will have more success than failures.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Aftercare: Pros often use bright shade poly tunnels, with intermittent misters, commonly every 15 minutes, with bottom heat, keeping potting media at 80 F. Fans for air movement, and other refinements. With this type of set up, you can collect almost anything at anytime. Almost. Some species defy even the pros.

Obviously, this is a serious investment, beyond the hobby grower, and completely unnecessary for most species collected during their local ideal time frames.

Do put newly collected trees in bright shade, some species need some direct sun during the cooler parts of the day. Key is to recognize signs of dehydration, deciduous trees wilt, with conifers it can be more difficult to tell. Misting foliage is useful where the roots are damaged, trees can take in water through the leaves or needles, with damaged roots, foliar water absorbing can make the difference. Fertilizer should be very dilute, or withheld for the first month or two. Shelter from strong, drying winds. Keep potting media moist, but well aerated. Pumice, frequently nothing but pumice is the media used most often, but other media can work. Media choices should be tailored to the species.

So these are some general tips aftercare, there's more, but they are more species specific.

 

[twisted trees]

I haven't lived in Florida for over 30 years but azaleas come to mind. Sea
grape? Buttonwood? Lugustrum?

 

[pbethune]

In NJ, I've just did a yard clean out that landed me 14 trees, azaleas, hollies, boxwoods, and a barberry.. Our weather is something else, but these trees were going to the junkyard. So in spring, I'll know which made it.

 

[JoeH]

I'm in central FLA and have had some luck in the past month with Ilex schilling so far. still green and starting to push growth. I just avoid tying it in the hot months down here.

 

[Ryan H]

I am going on two yamadori trips for juniper in January (here in Arizona). I also just collected olives here about two weeks ago

 

[SU2]

I suppose you still have to worry about root rot.

Why would this be more of a concern in winter? Am entering my first winter with a real collection right now, have yet to understand whether or not I should be keeping my containers the same as I did in summer or drier, I mean I understand water usage is lower so the frequency of waterings obviously goes down but what I don't know is if I should be letting it get drier between waterings than I did during the growing period?

 

[SU2]

I am going on two yamadori trips for juniper in January (here in Arizona). I also just collected olives here about two weeks ago

I've collected 4 junipers on two separate trips and no survivors, any tips you could share or common mistakes I may be making? After the surprise at my first failure (I'd thought I did everything perfect), the second time I got 2 more and got great root-balls (and just containerized, I didn't bare-root or root-prune, I tried to keep it as-is) and didn't prune/cut-back, yet they still died... too much sun is all I can think I may've done wrong, but they were growing in a sunny spot where I'd collected them so don't know how likely that is to be the cause of their death after collection.. Realllllly want a collected juniper badly!!! I think there's also the fact that there's multiple varieties and some just don't take well to this, but I've no more knowledge on that so I just see 'juniper' and go for it!

 

[SU2]

I'm in central FLA and have had some luck in the past month with Ilex schilling so far. still green and starting to push growth. I just avoid tying it in the hot months down here.

You avoid collecting in the hot months? I'd have thought that was best!? I mean, sure you've gotta shade them (unless they're bougies or other exceptions), but I'd think spring/summer would be the most forgiving time, when the plant is in active growth..

And don't know much about ilex schilling, have you had them or is it your first? What are your thoughts on the species? Have always been interested in them but never owned one.

 

[SU2]

I haven't lived in Florida for over 30 years but azaleas come to mind. Sea
grape? Buttonwood? Lugustrum?

Can azaleas be trunk-chopped, bringing them to trunk-only / no foliage?

Thanks for the species suggestions, they're on my list now

Ligustrum/privet definitely can take the cut-back right now, I recently did a first round 'niwaki' styling on a friend's pair of ~10' privets, brought them down to ~6-7' with ~10 branches each, it's been ~3.5wks and they're putting out shoots like crazy!!

[edit- how about sea grape, can they be brought to no foliage? I wonder how much their massive leaf-size can be reduced once container-bound!]

 

[Anthony]

@SU2 ,

remember Tropics.

Seagrape can be collected as a seedling, wired to a broad shape and
ground grown.
It thickens the trunk very rapidly, very rapidly.

When wiring, remember, to imagine the bark filling in the curves.
So make the wiring extreme and expect the tree to fill in as it
tries to straighten up.

Lots of sun and the leaves will slowly get smaller.
Good Day
Anthony

Found holding onto life, by one root.
Was trunk fattened this year.

 

[twisted trees]

Can azaleas be trunk-chopped, bringing them to trunk-only / no foliage?

Thanks for the species suggestions, they're on my list now

Ligustrum/privet definitely can take the cut-back right now, I recently did a first round 'niwaki' styling on a friend's pair of ~10' privets, brought them down to ~6-7' with ~10 branches each, it's been ~3.5wks and they're putting out shoots like crazy!!

[edit- how about sea grape, can they be brought to no foliage? I wonder how much their massive leaf-size can be reduced once container-bound!]

Yes, azaleas can be drastically pruned. They will sprout vigorously as long as it's healthy.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

I love your Seagrape Anthony; looks great. As a Florida "native", I would note that it most often grows in protected environments in Florida: http://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/manateeco/2015/07/28/sea-grapes-are-protected-sometimes/

 

[theone420]

I am going on two yamadori trips for juniper in January (here in Arizona). I also just collected olives here about two weeks ago

I wanna come.

 

[JoeH]

You avoid collecting in the hot months? I'd have thought that was best!? I mean, sure you've gotta shade them (unless they're bougies or other exceptions), but I'd think spring/summer would be the most forgiving time, when the plant is in active growth..

And don't know much about ilex schilling, have you had them or is it your first? What are your thoughts on the species? Have always been interested in them but never owned one.

I have had really poor luck collecting stuff in the hottest months, better luck now, several Ilex, junipers, even a couple loropetulum