In April, out of boredom, I purchased a flowering Japanese quince from Brussel's. It was too cold here to put it outside yet, and no surprise, it dropped all of it's leaves. After a couple of weeks outside, it quickly rebounded and was full of new leaves. Then, the leaves started to look bad, not crunchy from underwatering. I sprayed it with Bayer 3 in 1, but again, dropped all of it's leaves. It seems to be starting to send a few new buds out now. It has been an extremely wet spring and so far summer here, so maybe too much water is the cause? I have tried to keep it somewhat sheltered, but it rained three times just today, after a good shower last night. I have purchased several trees from this vendor, and have no complaints about the product, it is always packaged well and very healthy. But the pots are very large and deep for the material and the soil, at least in this humidity, is very water retentive. I wouldn't risk repotting in it's current condition and know they prefer fall repotting. I suspect it is the ridiculous rain we've been having, but would appreciate any other thoughts on the constant leave drop.
Floundering Japanese Quince
- Thread starter Carol 83
- Start date
thumblessprimate1
Masterpiece
I have some flowering quince in finer composted bark mixes with the bottom of the pots sitting in water a few hours a day. I dunno what's going on with yours. 
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
What time of the day is it getting sun? Mine gets morning sun...
River's Edge
Masterpiece
Hi Carol, japanese quince are finicky, they like to be damp, but not wet!
Prefer shade to partial shade! Often take quite a while to adjust to new situations. Patience is required!
parhamr
Omono
My Chaenomeles japonica clump and root cuttings all get a bit sad with too much sun. They also seem to really appreciate a pruning regimen.
When the branches have at least 12 nodes they will seem to go dormant and then the leaves get a bit mottled. Inner leaves will shrivel and fall off. I think at least part of the discoloration is from spider mites, but that doesn’t explain the cessation of growth.
Once I’ve trimmed a “stuck” branch back to two buds, which alters the auxin-cytokinin hormone balance, it pops right off with enthusiasm.
On a sickly Chaenomeles I wouldn’t go the full route down to two buds, but count a branch or two and maybe halve the number of nodes. If that seems to work then repeat it on other branches.
That’s my observational guess, though I don’t have any particular authoritative source behind this. I’ve been growing a clump since 2015 and only since the beginning of 2018 have I been having success with this pruning regimen.
When the branches have at least 12 nodes they will seem to go dormant and then the leaves get a bit mottled. Inner leaves will shrivel and fall off. I think at least part of the discoloration is from spider mites, but that doesn’t explain the cessation of growth.
Once I’ve trimmed a “stuck” branch back to two buds, which alters the auxin-cytokinin hormone balance, it pops right off with enthusiasm.
On a sickly Chaenomeles I wouldn’t go the full route down to two buds, but count a branch or two and maybe halve the number of nodes. If that seems to work then repeat it on other branches.
That’s my observational guess, though I don’t have any particular authoritative source behind this. I’ve been growing a clump since 2015 and only since the beginning of 2018 have I been having success with this pruning regimen.
Morning sun also.
Thank you. It just gets morning sun at the moment, but I can move to shade..Unfortunately, wet has been the order here for months, so much rain.
Thanks, very helpful. Mottled does describe what the leaves were doing. It got really vigorous, then kind of stalled and dropped leaves.
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
I've had a Toyo Nishiki for about ten years. It always grows OK, but has never flowered. I assume that it flowers on the tips of last year's growth and have even pruned it every which way from Sunday to no avail. Nothing has worked.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
I forgot to mention. They like deeper and larger pots for growth. I overpot the cuttings considerably. Like to grow them out in 1 gallon nursery pots for the first two years and then switch to five gallon nursery containers to grow into clumps. I do not start cutting back until a considerable clump size has been attained. I do however wire the first three inches of branches that i will keep when i finally decide to cut back. This must be done before they get to brittle and on each piece as the clump develops.Thank you. It just gets morning sun at the moment, but I can move to shade..Unfortunately, wet has been the order here for months, so much rain.
parhamr
Omono
Same!
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Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Maybe your morning sun is hot to long. Shade may work. Definitely.worth a try. Mine gets a bit of wee morning sun...then dappled shade the rest of the day.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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On the farm, in SW Michigan, I have 'Contorted White' in full sun, in a 3 gallon nursery pot, growing vigorously, leaves just a little bit yellow from too much sun. A landscape flowering quince 'Miverva' has normal medium green leaves in full sun. In Illinois, I could never keep them looking good even though there's more shade available at my Illinois home.
Farm has good air movement and cools off better at night than Illinois location, otherwise daytime temps are pretty similar.
Flowering Quince are a bit temperamental. I don't know what if anything you could do in Collinsville to help. Maybe set your quince up, on a shelf or bench in a spot, off the ground, where it can get a breeze from all sides. In Illinois most of my trees have wind blocked from one or two directions. Most are against the house. On the farm it is open and airy.
Pines will like better air too.
Farm has good air movement and cools off better at night than Illinois location, otherwise daytime temps are pretty similar.
Flowering Quince are a bit temperamental. I don't know what if anything you could do in Collinsville to help. Maybe set your quince up, on a shelf or bench in a spot, off the ground, where it can get a breeze from all sides. In Illinois most of my trees have wind blocked from one or two directions. Most are against the house. On the farm it is open and airy.
Pines will like better air too.
it's in a pretty deep pot, and I couldn't risk trying to repot when it is sickly. I'll move it to my side patio table, where it will have good airflow, and the shade of a large sycamore tree, just some dappled sun. Sounds like it wasn't a good choice for my climate. Flowering species always tempt me. 
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
If he sick, put him in the hospital. Sink the pot until next spring.it's in a pretty deep pot, and I couldn't risk trying to repot when it is sickly. I'll move it to my side patio table, where it will have good airflow, and the shade of a large sycamore tree, just some dappled sun. Sounds like it wasn't a good choice for my climate. Flowering species always tempt me.
It's starting to push a little new growth, so fingers crossed.
thumblessprimate1
Masterpiece
Sorry. Few of mine actually sitting water many hours.
Lazylightningny
Masterpiece
Your plant has been defoliated twice in a single season, and it's using everything it's got to push new leaves and stay alive. I would say it's in a precarious state right now. When my plants get sick I pull them out of the pot and plant them in the ground for a year or two to regain health. Unless the roots are too far gone it has worked well for me.
I'm not sure it would survive in the ground in winter here. I guess I could put in one of my flower beds if absolutely necessary.
Lazylightningny
Masterpiece
I'm in zone 6b; not sure your zone, but I've had a Japanese quince growing out in the ground for several years, and it is fine so far.
