Foliage management for Alaskan Yellow Cedar aka cypress etc.

Discussion in 'Other Conifers' started by Riversedgebonsai, Nov 14, 2017.

  1. I am interested in hearing from someone who has experience with foliage management techniques specific to this species. I am aware that there is debate over the classification and how to handle the foliage. I am working with a collected specimen that is ready for refining the foliage.
     
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  3. Ryan Huston

    Ryan Huston Yamadori

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    It is practically identical to the foliage management of white cedar and western red cedar (but more droopy and snow-adapted), and in mentality similar to the hinoki cypress fronds. I refer you to two posts I published earlier this year on white cedar discussions, in which I actually pruned Alaska yellow cedars.

    Comment 1 I made with 3 Alaska yellow cedars I helped prune or did entirely myself in the latter two cases.
    https://bonsainut.com/threads/i-wonder-why-thuja-gets-a-bad-rap.29222/#post-485344

    Comment 2 I made with general observations about this sort of foliage management. I think late spring is the best time to do it, but they respond well anytime in summer, with a more vigorous response the earlier it is pruned.
    https://bonsainut.com/threads/i-wonder-why-thuja-gets-a-bad-rap.29222/page-3#post-494017

    I can provide more clear insight later if requrested.
     
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  5. Thanks Ryan
    I checked out both posts and noted your suggestions.
     
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  6. sorce

    sorce Nonsense Rascal

    Messages:
    17,347
    Location:
    Berwyn, Il
    I am a River nut.
    Big on riverside.
    Gotta kid middle named River.

    Pictures Please!

    Of everything!

    Welcome to Crazy!

    Sorce
     
  7. Sorry about the rebar confusing the image. not time to remove it yet:)
     
  8. Ryan Huston

    Ryan Huston Yamadori

    Messages:
    71
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Wow, nice bendy trunk! To elaborate on my previous comment, if you want a branch to become woody earlier, take the center of a frond out at a bifurcation point. The two smaller side branches will activate into new fronds, or buds from scales below your cut. If you want a frond to become a new branch, let it grow. The center will continue to elongate and the sides will typically fall off after a few years or become new branches themselves.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2017
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  9. sorce

    sorce Nonsense Rascal

    Messages:
    17,347
    Location:
    Berwyn, Il
    Thanks for sharing!

    Very fluid!

    Eff the rebar!
    Remove the shadows!

    Something that interesting...
    Fully deserves it!

    Sorce
     
  10. This picture has fewer shadows, slightly different viewpoint for clarity of the movement. Kaizan
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Bavarian Raven

    Bavarian Raven Yamadori

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC, Canada.
    That is a beautiful yellow cedar (one of my fav species). But it looks to symmetrical and therefore artificial imho. But that's just me. Cheers. :)
     
  12. The tree was created by nature and the foliage has yet to be developed. That was the purpose of the thread inquiry. Cheers.
     
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  13. ghues

    ghues Omono

    Messages:
    1,174
    Location:
    Campbell River BC Canada
    Nice tree Frank. I’d like to add one to my bench and try to use the foliage in its more natural formation, that is the drooping/weeping style where the fronds are all below the branches.
    Glad to see you sharing your collection.
    Cheers
    Graham
     
  14. I love the natural look as well. This tree is natural formed in a compressed manner, not very tall. Approximately 16 inches in the twisted trunk formation. Difficult to envision natural droopy fronds on its frame. So the challenge will be to develop more condensed and refined foliage. At this stage i have simply begun a progressive cutback of the natural foliage. Primary branches have been selected and positioned. When the cutback is further along, i will begin to develop secondary branching and then on to compact foliage and pad development. Probably 3-5 years.
    The style envisioned should become more apparent in a couple of years if the foliage management techniques work. Of course at this stage the foliage looks ridiculous, and i expect all experienced Bonsai artists can recognize the transition stage. It is too risky to cut back excessive foliage at one time. I reduced the foliage by approximately 40% already. The final stage should have the foliage behind and throughout the deadwood/trunk and of course smaller. My colleagues are not in agreement over the techniques, but then the experts cannot even agree on which category the species fits into.
    During the first two years after collection i have noted the growth patterns and response. I am encouraged with the ability to create new smaller growth in the interior and the Root recovery. I deliberately let it become a bit overgrown to ensure the health and vigor for the process envisioned.
    PS: don't tell the naturalists what i am planning:eek:
     
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  15. Ryan Huston

    Ryan Huston Yamadori

    Messages:
    71
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Can't wait to see the product!
     

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