Front-Yard-A-Dori J. Maple

n8

Shohin
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The house we're currently renting has a Japanese maple in the front yard, along with three massive palms (Mexican palmettos, maybe?). Two years ago, I dug up a pair of volunteer J. maples that were growing within the base of the palms. After wrestling them out, neither had many roots left, so they've both been sitting in the backyard recovering. After the heat passed last fall, I cut back all of the large, unusable branches. One tree is a goofy looking Y-shape with a big, dead stmp in the middle of the branches. I'll probably cut that back very low on the stump next year to work on a short fatty. The other tree, I repotted into a shallow grow box over the weekend and wanted to share some pictures.

This maple is 34" tall and the trunk is about 4" across at the bottom, flaring out to 8" under at root base. There are several scars and a large wound from a branch that was removed in the fall. Just going to watch and see what happens this season.
 

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I like the one in the pictures! great material!
 

Shibui

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I think I would have taken the opportunity to try to get some roots started on that bare patch between the 2 large roots. Starting now means any new roots will be larger when you need them.
That soil mix looks pretty muddy. What sort of mix are you using? JM roots can be prone to various root rot fungi if they are too wet for any length of time. The new mix looks much more free draining.
Any plans on how to get new branches started on this trunk? I think you're going to need them.
 
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Great project!!! Don’t be afraid to heavily fertilise :)
 
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n8

Shohin
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What sort of mix are you using?

This was in straight soil from the yard up until a few days ago. Now planted in lava, pumice and turface with some bark and seed starting potting soil mixed in to get the roots going. I'm not concerned with root rot. After the winter ends, I'll have about nine months of hot, dry weather.

Any plans on how to get new branches started on this trunk? I think you're going to need them.

Oh, for sure. ;) Going to see what grows out over the next two years while it's in the box. Thread graft where needed, I reckon.
 
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I think I would have taken the opportunity to try to get some roots started on that bare patch between the 2 large roots. Starting now means any new roots will be larger when you need them.

How would somebody prompt root growth exactly where you want it to grow?
 
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Shibui

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How would somebody prompt root growth exactly where you want it to grow?
Use a modified version of layering.
Make 2 horizontal cuts with the upper cut where you want roots. Remove the bark between the cuts, scrape cambium off the exposed wood, treat with rooting hormone then bury the area with sphagnum or good potting mix. Roots should grow from the line of the upper cut. This method is used where you need a row of roots and would suit the maple above IMHO.
I've also used the 'toothpick method' - Drill a hole (1/8" or slightly larger is about right) through the bark and into the wood of the trunk where you want a new root. Apply root hormone to a toothpick, match or similar piece of wood and push that into the hole. Bury the area so roots can form. The toothpick makes sure the hole cannot heal easily so the tree usually ends up producing one or more roots at that point - just where you want them. This is more suited when you just want one or 2 roots or a couple at different places around the trunk.
I've also seen tiling wedges used - use a chisel to lift a flap of bark then slide a small plastic wedge (sold at hardware to space out wall tiles) to hold the flap open. Bury to allow roots to grow. Roots will usually emerge from the end and sides of the flap above the wedge. This can give additional flare (buttress) to the trunk where the new roots will grow.

These methods may not be suitable for trees that do not produce roots easily but certainly works with most maples and should be good for most other easy rooting species.
 

n8

Shohin
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Good to know. I can get into the sides without roots pretty easily. Thanks.
 

n8

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Little over a year since I moved this into the box. Growing strong and @Shibui's root advice also seems to be working when I scratch a little soil away where I made the cuts. Going to let it grow unhindered to help heal over some of the big scars. Root work in early spring 2021, I reckon.

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n8

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I reckon I'm losing this one. It suffered last summer after losing our mid-day shade and I failed to move it into a better spot to cope. I did not let it grow unhindered as noted in my last post. I did cut back on the top branches (now dead) in an attempt to keep them shorter and smaller than the bottom branches. This could have also lead to the die back. The top 18" are surely gone, so I'm going to try a chop above the highest growth (red line) once it comes back to life, likely within the next month. Of course, that completely throws off the branching. If it pulls through this year, I have several whips I can use to thread graft a new design.

Concerned about the cracking bark lower down. I don't have high hopes, but we shall see if it pulls through this year.


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@Shibui - I did have some success with the root layering. Appreciate the tip!

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n8

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Whacked off the top 20" and lost all my taper. This project is essentially over, but I'm still curious to see what happens with the cracked bark in such a poor state. I am still assuming that it's dying and on it's last legs. Maybe it'll pull through and I'll do an even lower chop to start again or thread graft some of these long branches I've been growing out.

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plant_dr

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In post #11, third picture down, you can see where the brown edge of the live vein begins next to the lighter silvery dead section. You can easily peel away the bark on the dead area with your fingernail or aknife. There are some cracks on the living side too, but those are probably just from growth. I would keep the tree just for the experience of growing and keep it alive, practicing on, etc.
 
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