Fukien Tea losing leaves

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,911
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
The soil for a Fukien Tea should feel damp like a squeezed out sponge. This soil look a bit dry, but it's hard to tell from the photo. It is also possible the tree is not getting enough humidity.
 

markyscott

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,112
Reaction score
21,382
Location
Delaplane VA
USDA Zone
6B
It's really fascinating how dramatically light intensity falls when you walk inside - even in front of a sunny window. At my house light intensity falls by a factor of 100 between outside in the full sun and inside on the sill of a south facing window. But my house is not yours and if you're convinced that you have sufficient light I will not push the point.

But if you're looking for an example of a successful indoor growing operation, here's an interesting indoor setup:

http://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t10302-how-i-grow-my-ficus

Not how I grow my tropicals, but I'm still having daytime highs in the seventies. If I moved north I might consider something like this for the tropicals I couldn't bear to part with.

I looked at the photo of the roots you posted. I didn't see any evidence of root rot that would necessitate an emergency, out-of-season repot. Did you follow up on JudyB's suggestion?

I looked at the soil mix you ordered. Lots of organics - with the exception of a small amount of charcoal, I don't use any in my substrate. Straight turface would be better IMO. But a lot of folks do use organics in their soil mix - just not me. I removed the last bits of bark, peat, and leaf mold years ago - so I can't advise you about care for your tree in such a medium. Instead I'll defer to someone who grows their trees in an organic substrate.

Best of luck

Scott
 
Last edited:

Poink88

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
8,968
Reaction score
119
Location
Austin, TX (Zone 8b)
USDA Zone
8b
If it takes that long to dry, then the roots are compromised...they are not drawing water out of the soil & is very likely only drying by evaporation at the surface.
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,911
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
Perhaps... I might also be that my definition of drying out and his are two different things...
With no insult intended... Just trying to help him resolve the prob. and save the tree.
What proceedure is he doing to determine the tree's soil is dry ???
:)

I think Stacy has a good point: How are you defining dry or moist or wet? This could be critical. FT's are not Pine trees that like to be allowed to dry out, FT's like to be evenly moist. This could be the problem. If you put an FT through wet and dry cycles you will put them into stress.
 

RyGuy55

Seedling
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
The roots don't look or smell bad, but they are definitely extremely densely packed and the soil feels extremely thick. When I touched a few they felt sinuous, not rotten or weak. Picking at the soil looks and feels like I'm picking at a brownie. That and the mineral and salt clumps make me feel that the soil is out of nutrients and needs to be changed. Like I said, I got that soil I linked to above and when it gets here I'll prune the roots, change the soil, and hopefully won't need to ask you guys any more questions as it will flourish and be beautiful.

EDIT: Oops, didn't see the 3rd page. So, the example of a rung sponge is a good one, that's exactly how the soil feels almost all the time, and evenly that way throughout. I was considering that too moist because the websites I had previously looked at specifically said that the soil should dry out completely between waterings to avoid root rot. If that level of moisture is ok I'll begin watering the tree more, especially if the consensus here is that the roots have not been compromised by excessive watering. I'll also continue to look into soils, if that one I got is apparently not ideal. As for humidity, I do spray the tree down twice a day.

EDIT AGAIN: I just found this site that looks very promising for soils:

http://www.repotme.com/orchid-mix/SelectABlend.html

Could someone recommend me a good combo to make out of those available options? I did look at the Clay King site you linked, Markyscott, but with such a big daunting list of options, I figure someone here could do a much better job than me making an optimal mix.

As always, thanks for your continued help.
 
Last edited:

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,911
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
Here is another thing that might save your tree. Water the tree until the water runs through and out the drain hole. The place the tree pot and all in a location that gets plenty of light but not necessarily direct sun light. Put an arch of wire over the top of the tree anchoring the wire into the pot bending the wire over the top and into the other side of the soil. Over that wire arch place a clear plastic bag that encloses the tree pot and all and do not water again till the soil becomes dry as a well squeezed out sponge. See what happens. You have basically made a mini green house or humidity tent for your tree. Within a week you should see new growth.
 

RyGuy55

Seedling
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Tree is currently soaking and I'll certainly try a makeshift greenhouse. I'd still like soil recommendations from the site I linked, if possible - even though I'll try treating it with a lot of water before re-potting.
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,911
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
Tree is currently soaking and I'll certainly try a makeshift greenhouse. I'd still like soil recommendations from the site I linked, if possible - even though I'll try treating it with a lot of water before re-potting.

You're missing the point. The solution is not to soak the tree but to water just as I described and then put it in the green house assembly. Do this and do it soon or your tree may be toast. The entire process is critical and must be done now. Forget about the new soil until you get the tree to growing again. From the looks of the soil you do not have a root rot problem or a soil that is holding too much water, the soil is fine for now.
 

JudyB

Queen of the Nuts
Messages
13,751
Reaction score
23,250
Location
South East of Cols. OH
USDA Zone
6a
I agree with doing a humidity dome, when my indoor trees get stressed, that always helps. But if the soil is so compacted as it appears, you may indeed need to soak the pot to get it to actually accept the water. If the soil is a peat based soil, and dried out, sometimes soaking is the only way to get it wet again.

Don't repot now.

Now you see why pictures are soooo important to help diagnose the problem. That rootball looks peaty and dry and compacted.

Don't repot now.

Please browse the soils threads to read up on what you'll want to pot this up in next summer once it's healthy again. If you still need pointers after reading about soils, start a question thread.

Don't repot now.:)
 

amcoffeegirl

Masterpiece
Messages
2,770
Reaction score
4,794
Location
IOWA
USDA Zone
5b
i am new to this species i just bought my first one its a mallsai. i chopped it to the first s-curve and repotted it in turface. i didnt chop any roots. i live in iowa. i am using osmocote. it is under a desk lamp 6500k 2-4 hrs a day and is back budding like crazy. i thought i would kill this tree as the leaves all yellowed and fell but were quickly replaced. repot this tree!!!
 

RyGuy55

Seedling
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Hey everyone, wanted to give another update since it's been about 3 weeks since I put the tree in a plastic wrap container. I water it every other day, spray the tree with a squirt bottle in the morning, keep it in a window sill through out the day, and put it under my tortoise's 100 watt UV bulb for like 2 hours at night. There's been an increase in the number of small buds the tree is getting, but it ultimately hasn't made any progress in growing back anything permanently. When the leaves reach their maximum size they still turn yellow and fall off. I have 3 new pictures that will hopefully help.

First, here's a little timeline. The first picture is early last summer, before the leaves fell off. The second I posted here in November when the leaves were struggling to come back, and the last one was taken today.
http://imgur.com/l9taO
http://i.imgur.com/vNLHM.jpg
http://imgur.com/lP2B4

And the other two new ones:
http://imgur.com/ey1RC
http://imgur.com/pYVZU

That last one is an example of what the leaves are doing. The left one will be gone in a day or two and the right one has already stiffened up and will turn yellow and fall soon as well. Happens with every leaf.

I'll be putting the tree back in the enclosure and continue what I've been doing until you fine people can instruct otherwise. :(
 
Last edited:

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,911
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
Hey everyone, wanted to give another update since it's been about 3 weeks since I put the tree in a plastic wrap container. I water it every other day, spray the tree with a squirt bottle in the morning, keep it in a window sill through out the day, and put it under my tortoise's 100 watt UV bulb for like 2 hours at night. There's been an increase in the number of small buds the tree is getting, but it ultimately hasn't made any progress in growing back anything permanently. When the leaves reach their maximum size they still turn yellow and fall off. I have 3 new pictures that will hopefully help.

First, here's a little timeline. The first picture is early last summer, before the leaves fell off. The second I posted here in November when the leaves were struggling to come back, and the last one was taken today.
http://imgur.com/l9taO
http://i.imgur.com/vNLHM.jpg
http://imgur.com/lP2B4

And the other two new ones:
http://imgur.com/ey1RC
http://imgur.com/pYVZU

That last one is an example of what the leaves are doing. The left one will be gone in a day or two and the right one has already stiffened up and will turn yellow and fall soon as well. Happens with every leaf.

I'll be putting the tree back in the enclosure and continue what I've been doing until you fine people can instruct otherwise. :(

I think you are watering too much. Once you put the tree in the closed in plastic bag you should not need to water for at least a week--- if then. When the humidity builds up in the bag it will fall back down onto the soil over and over again, its like creating its own micro climate. If you water during this process you will rot the roots for sure.

I wish too, especially with the number of photos you have posted links for, that you would post them directly here, it's not difficult. I don't know about others on the forum but when faced with having to go look for photos somewhere else on another site I usually get a stiff knock and say screw that.
 
Last edited:

RyGuy55

Seedling
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
I'll keep the picture thing in mind, sorry about that. I bumped down to watering once a week, and a light watering at that. Honestly, what chance is there of the tree coming back? There still hasn't been any progress with leaf regrowth. After so many months with the tree looking like near death I'm just not feeling very confident about it.
 

Poink88

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
8,968
Reaction score
119
Location
Austin, TX (Zone 8b)
USDA Zone
8b
I don't know about others on the forum but when faced with having to go look for photos somewhere else on another site I usually get a stiff knock and say screw that.
Same here. I might do it once but after that...I won't waste my time any further.

To the OP...IF you want more responses, please re-post the pics properly. ;)
 

RyGuy55

Seedling
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Is that single mouse click really so painful that you're at the point that you can refuse input?
 

Poink88

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
8,968
Reaction score
119
Location
Austin, TX (Zone 8b)
USDA Zone
8b
Is that single mouse click really so painful that you're at the point that you can refuse input?

Back at you...is posting the pic here that difficult?

I am free to comment or not but if you want better input...you better cater to those you want input from. Not the other way around (here or anywhere else).

Good luck!
 
Top Bottom