Fungicide use during stratification

[AK47]

I am curious what kind of fungicide do people use for stratification of JM seeds as well as Black Pines, hornbeams, etc
Also, what amounts. I am using Captan Series 50W Fungicide, but this is first time trying fungicide, so I was curious if other people use them successfully for stratification purposes and you find it helpful.

 

[Shibui]

I've seen comments about using all sorts of fungicides on stratified seed. A few have suggested peroxide as a seed pre treatment. Much safer than any other fungicide but equally effective.
I stratify outdoors and don't find any need for fungicide when I use the big fridge as nature intended.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I don't use fungicides for stratification.
If things get moldy, I'm doing the wrong stratification.

Cleaning seeds however, is something I do perform sometimes. I make a bleach solution with 5mL (about 2 bottle caps) bleach from a bottle to a liter of water. Add some dishwashing liquid. Then swirl the seeds for 5 minutes and wash with tap water 3 times in a sieve.
Peroxide can be helpfull too. I use that for the initial soak: about 24 hours in a glass of water with a dash of peroxide.

 

[Bnana]

I don't use fungicides for stratification.
If things get moldy, I'm doing the wrong stratification.

This!

This should be the general rule for pesticides anyway. If you need them, you're doing something wrong. Treat the cause, not the symptoms.

(And a few aphids do not hurt a tree)

 

[penumbra]

Seeds vary as do methods of stratification so one size does not fit all. I typically address this potential problem with peroxide. The use of sphagnum moss (not peat moss) is helpful too. But recognizing that condition do vary, I would have no reservations about using captain except to label the seed batch as treated and to wash my hands. Consider too that most people are thinking about cold stratifying. Fungus issues are more common in warm stratification and a fungicide may be useful. Agree with above that stratifying outside resolves the problem, but it can create its own problems.
As in all else, It Depends.

 

[AK47]

the general rule for pesticides anyway.

Seeds vary as do methods of stratification so one size does not fit all. I typically address this potential problem with peroxide. The use of sphagnum moss (not peat moss) is helpful too. But recognizing that condition do vary, I would have no reservations about using captain except to label the seed batch as treated and to wash my hands. Consider too that most people are thinking about cold stratifying. Fungus issues are more common in warm stratification and a fungicide may be useful. Agree with above that stratifying outside resolves the problem, but it can create its own problems.
As in all else, It Depends.

Thank you that makes sense. I am also doing sphagnum moss, and splitting them between batches of treated with fungicide and not and seeing which one performs better. Some seeds I am doing this year need warm stratification first (like J hornbeams), and then cold, but yeah, mostly cold.
I never tried peroxide - will give it a try.

 

[AK47]

This!

This should be the general rule for pesticides anyway. If you need them, you're doing something wrong. Treat the cause, not the symptoms.

(And a few aphids do not hurt a tree)

You receive seeds form some seller. Some look worse then others, but most need to be treated so they don't get moldy. Specially JM and Bald Cypress as they come with a lot of material besides clean seeds usually.

 

[bwaynef]

I've had some problems stratifying hornbeams and others that require warm stratification. I wet the seeds, put it in a baggie and lightly dusted the seeds with Captan. That and peroxide are about all I've used.

(If someone wants to tell me how you manage to successfully warm stratify seeds, I'm all ears. PM me if you don't want to clutter this thread, though its at least peripherally relevant.)

 

[thatbonsaiguydb]

I soak my jm seeds in a sulfur solution.