Fungus or Sun damage?

Johnnyd

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Are these spots something I need to worry about. I've been treating all my maples every 2 weeks with daconil. Can daconil do this? Some of these maples are so dam fragile!:mad:
 

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coh

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Are you referring to the white areas? That looks like daconil residue. Does it wash off?
 

Johnnyd

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You are right. The white came off. I think it was daconil residue. The brown spots are either fungus or sun damage. Not sure, but I'm concerned because I lost a maple to fungus that was right next to it.
 

drew33998

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I believe that is fungus given the spots. I treated mine with dormant oil this year twice before bud break and right after and mine has seemed more healthy than ever. Sunburn would start from the edge of the leaf I think
 

Johnnyd

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I believe that is fungus given the spots. I treated mine with dormant oil this year twice before bud break and right after and mine has seemed more healthy than ever. Sunburn would start from the edge of the leaf I think
Thanks Drew. I may need to remove the leaves with these spots. I'm going to rotate hydrogen peroxide and daconil spray weekly. I think the air layer I have on it may be adding stress to the plant.
 

theta

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I believe the brown/tan spots are either Phyllosticta or Cercospora leaf spot, I have spots on my maples this year too.

They're a type of fungus, but apparently don't pose too much of a threat to the overall health of the tree, just make them look a lot worse. I don't have experience with getting rid of it or preventing it, just beginning to do some research into it now.
 

Johnnyd

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I believe the brown/tan spots are either Phyllosticta or Cercospora leaf spot, I have spots on my maples this year too.

They're a type of fungus, but apparently don't pose too much of a threat to the overall health of the tree, just make them look a lot worse. I don't have experience with getting rid of it or preventing it, just beginning to do some research into it now.
I did a little research. Think you are correct about it being fungus. I caused it by overwintering in leaf mulch. It is very persistent fungus. I sprayed with copper monthly and used phyton 27 (systemic) in beginning of spring. I have better spot for them this year.
All my maples were overwintered in the same place. The ones without symptoms Sharps pygmy kashima and green acer p.. Just figured I would share in case someone could benefit.
 

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Johnnyd

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Thanks Drew. I may need to remove the leaves with these spots. I'm going to rotate hydrogen peroxide and daconil spray weekly. I think the air layer I have on it may be adding stress to the plant.
I did remove some leaves. I believe that as long as they are not actively fruiting (indicated by black dots in the center) the tree is not threatened.
 

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bwaynef

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Of the common fungicides I've researched, only Copper lists Phyllosticta Leaf Spot among the ailments it controls. Copper, Mancozeb, Phyton[27|35], Daconil, KO2, Clearys3336, Immunox, and Myclobutanil all list Cercospora.
 

Driftwood

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Sorry if improperly 'reviving' this thread with a similar question.
Last months I received a weak mame maple / acer katsura, which I should have sent back but I'm trying to recover first. I'm worry about leaves color, IMAG0001.jpgIMAG0610.jpgscorching (it was under might day sun) and at the same time Akadama staying wet for too long. Is it fungus? Any advice?
First photo from last month after delivery and second pic was taken yesterday.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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sun scald - too much sun
the Acer palmatum cultivar 'Katsura' is famous for getting sun burnt in early spring. It tends to leaf out ahead of our landscape trees, and my experience has been that you really have to be careful the first few weeks of spring, and keep it in the shade. Once the landscape trees have leafed out, you can set it where it gets a little sun. But it really needs shade until after the leaves turn more green.
 

Driftwood

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sun scald - too much sun
the Acer palmatum cultivar 'Katsura' is famous for getting sun burnt in early spring. It tends to leaf out ahead of our landscape trees, and my experience has been that you really have to be careful the first few weeks of spring, and keep it in the shade. Once the landscape trees have leafed out, you can set it where it gets a little sun. But it really needs shade until after the leaves turn more green.

Thank you Leo, I didn't know that about the Katsura! Actually 3 days ago I put a bigger plant next to it to shade my mame during might day ( it was getting about 3 hours full sun from late morning).So I'll follow you suggestion until green leaves and them perhaps will use a pop-up food cover?... I though these little mames in tiny pots dry quickly but not mine, any comment?
 

Johnnyd

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Sorry if improperly 'reviving' this thread with a similar question.
Last months I received a weak mame maple / acer katsura, which I should have sent back but I'm trying to recover first. I'm worry about leaves color, View attachment 240919View attachment 240920scorching (it was under might day sun) and at the same time Akadama staying wet for too long. Is it fungus? Any advice?
First photo from last month after delivery and second pic was taken yesterday.
I've had some good luck with my maples since I started treating them before any fungus problems can seed. Daconel every 2 weeks and an hydrogen peroxide dilution (2tsp/quart) whenever it gets too much rain. Its been raining for a few days so I make sure all my maples get a fine mist of the H2O2 dilution. I'm also using a silica product this year to help with sun damage. Ideally a sun screen would be great especially for katsura or Aurum.
 

LanceMac10

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Too much sun in the UK in April?

How is the drainage? Last repot? I anything, looks like root issues. Pot could have some wonky spots on the bottom that hold water.
 

Driftwood

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Sun in April was from hardly noticeable to very intense, as usual. When I bought it at the beginning of April it was weakened by a slow delivery spending 5 days in a box.
Drainage seems fine, last repot was last year. Is it safe to check roots now or wait for 'summer dormancy'?
 

LanceMac10

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I would try the hydrogen peroxide treatment as mentioned. I've had a Katsura 5-6 years, always the first to bud out/into the sun and have no problems with spring sun exposure.
 

Driftwood

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Sorry but I couldn't handle to see it wet any longer so today I checked the roots without cutting but replacing old akadama for new 50/50 akadama/DE or Danish moler. So apart of a small black patch on the surface (maybe algae or compost) I didn't see any root rot... At least is draining much better now but hopefully haven't make things worse. Any post emergency repot treatment? Can I use antifungal again? Full shade, leave it in under the bigger plant or in full sun?
 
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