Future of my Apple Seedlings

[Shibui]

Root pruning every year does not always slow growth. In fast growing species pruning roots very quickly leads to more feeder roots. More feeder roots leads to more growth. i notice the difference in my bonsai. The year following root pruning I get a massive surge in growth which gradually gets less each year until the next repot. So may people want to believe that root pruning hurts a tree that they will not even see the evidence.
There are many factors that influence time to maturity and flowering. Strong growth can delay maturity as the tree puts most resources into growth. Restricting growth can bring on early maturity. Genetics can have a big influence. A range of seedlings from the same tree all grown together will see some flower early and some take years longer. Horizontal branches will mature and flower well before strong vertical branches on the same tree due to auxin influences in the circulatory system.

Grow your bonsai for the shape and style. Make a great trunk and good branches. Flowers and fruit are transitory the structure is there all year so is far more important. think of the flowers as a bonus to having an apple bonsai rather than the sole reason.

 

[B.uneasy]

Everyone give me your honest opinion. Should I plant all three in the ground, and keep them pruned. Find an interesting part and air layer? If I air layer I would also have good chances for working on nebari.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Some of the advice whether to repot yearly or every other year or even less frequently is based on the amount of growth you get each year. So if you get growth as @Shibui describes, then repotting yearly is good practice. @Shibui has a long growing season, likely over 250 days a year. Time out for summer dormancy due to high heat, but a very different climate than Pennsylvania. In PA your summer is maybe 120 to 150 days, I did not look up statistics for your location, where I am at my growing season runs 100 to 110 days. In a shorter summer, less growth will happen, so one of those things that contribute to the "individual results will vary". So obviously, if the tree grows rapidly, and you have a long season, the need to pot every year may arise.

 

[B.uneasy]

If the bark got all scratched up, will this heal over? Or what will happen as the tree grows

 

[B.uneasy]

Also this is not a bonsai question, but we all screw around with trees so I am sure somebody will be able to answer. If I planted apple seedlings into the ground without grafting onto dwarf root stock or any sorts of grafting, is there any way to keep the tree small so I will beable to reach the fruit without being on a ladder when the trees are mature??

 

[Shibui]

Pruning is the best way to keep trees short. Problem is most people are too lazy to prune often enough. My apples, plums and peaches get a haircut 3 or 4 times over summer so they do not get out of hand. Closer planting is also supposed to reduce the vigor and height of fruit trees but I don't have personal experience.
Bark damage can heal but it depends how severe it is. Bark forms part of the tree's circulation system so if it is badly damaged right round the trunk the tree may die - ringbarking has been used for hundreds of years to clear land for farming.
Less damage with some intact paths for sap to move will usually allow the tree to survive. The damaged areas may die but if the tree continues to grow it is likely that new bark will gradually grow over the damaged areas. Sometimes larger damaged areas will not heal over before the wood underneath starts to rot. Then you have a hollow in the tree. Usually the tree continues to grow. In large trees various wildlife take advantage of the hollows as homes.

So the answer to what will happen is it depends. Without seeing the damage I can only give possible outcomes.

Planting your trees in the ground could reduce the time to get a good bonsai from 15-20 years down to 5-10 years. Growing in a pot gives great control over shape and branching but it is definitely slower than most people want. Ground growing is fast but comes with risks. Problems can be magnified as growth rate increases and your ability to exert control is far less.
How about splitting the risk. 2 in the ground and 1 in a pot for slower but more controlled development. You can still change your mind each year so not locked into anything.

 

[AJL]

Everyone give me your honest opinion. Should I plant all three in the ground, and keep them pruned. Find an interesting part and air layer? If I air layer I would also have good chances for working on nebari.

Hi just for your comparision and encouragement here are my Crab apple seedlings. I collected the fruit from a selection of trees last autumn including Malus sylvestris (Wild crab apple) Malus Red Sentinel and another un named red fruited Crab apple .I put the seed in damp gritty compost in ziplock bags and kept them in the fridge till they started sprouting in February.I then planted them in trays in well drained compost and kept them in a frost free unheated conservatory till the start of April when I started hardening them off by putting them outside each day .Today I planted out the first tray full of Malus Golden Hornet in the ground in my allotment, and hope to plant the rest out this week. I will need to keep watering them as its been a very dry April here and still no rain forecast!

 

[B.uneasy]

heres an idea