Future Shimpaku LiteratiLiterati

[JoeR]

Here is a 1 gallon size shimpaku that I purchased from evergreengardenworks this last December. I bought it for the sole purpose of taking cuttings and removed about ~40% of the foliage in March. It has recovered well and is growing fairly vigorously.

I've been looking at it for a while now and I think it actually has a decent future ahead of it as a potential literati. I have included a super rough virt of where I see this tree going, based on where the shari already is. Again, its just a rough sketch so you get the idea, nothing exact.






Probably need to let it gain strength for the rest of this year and maybe next spring style it.


What ya'll think?

 

[aml1014]

I dig it!

Aaron

 

[DougB]

Joe that has great possibilities. But be very selective of when you do this so the cuttings will have an opportunity to root prior to 90+ weather and then our 10 degree weather. Enjoy the heat and humidity.

 

[JoeR]

Joe that has great possibilities. But be very selective of when you do this so the cuttings will have an opportunity to root prior to 90+ weather and then our 10 degree weather. Enjoy the heat and humidity.

Thanks, I think so too. I already took the cuttings in March, they arent rooting very fast at all. But they are still green! When I work it again I will take more for sure.


I don't know how to safely perform a shari, any ideas? In stages? Timing?

 

[sorce]

What ya'll think?

Nice backsplash!

Seriously... not that that wasn't.

I like the future.

Sorce

 

[DougB]

Joe for shari you can use special bonsai carving tools, or your own carving tools, or I sometimes use my dremel tool. Depending on the species you will want to pay attention to the live veins or you will loose branches above. Now it not a good time to do this, but a good time to do some research in the how to's.

Enjoy our cooler weekend.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Maybe it's the lighting, but make sure you don't have spider mites. It's been a rough year for them so far.

The design plan is good. This is a small tree, so I would do any carving with hand tools. Exacto knives, gouges, dental picks, etc. work well.
I would also work in phases, lengthening the existing Shari and starting to redirect the live vein. You could start this now, and take another step to extend and further redirect it next spring. Some tips on this technique:
1. It is usually more dynamic to show 2 live veins; Like a frame for the dead wood, and you want to show at least one live vein exiting the soil.
2. Widening the dead wood on the front has the effect of widening the tree overall in that area as the live vein is redirected and begins to swell outward, so be aware of this as you work so you don't unwittingly set up the tree for reverse taper. You can always add more Shari lower and in the back to force the live veins to continue widening lower on the tree. This will help counteract the effects of the Shari in the front.
3. When you connect the Shari from phase 1 to phase 2, don't try to blend them, but allow the differences in depths to provide some texture.
4. You can Jin the top anytime.

And continue phase 3 to finalize defining the live veins:

 

[Eric Group]

Juniper cutting should be taken earlier than most- Juniper and Une strike best when taken In lat winter around Jan-Feb..

BVF gave some great advice and some good virts!

 

[JoeR]

Juniper cutting should be taken earlier than most- Juniper and Une strike best when taken In lat winter around Jan-Feb..

BVF gave some great advice and some good virts!

Although I think anytime Jan-March is fine, I was actually told by Brent that they are best taken in March. I trust his experience!

 

[JoeR]

Maybe it's the lighting, but make sure you don't have spider mites. It's been a rough year for them so far.

The design plan is good. This is a small tree, so I would do any carving with hand tools. Exacto knives, gouges, dental picks, etc. work well.
I would also work in phases, lengthening the existing Shari and starting to redirect the live vein. You could start this now, and take another step to extend and further redirect it next spring. Some tips on this technique:
1. It is usually more dynamic to show 2 live veins; Like a frame for the dead wood, and you want to show at least one live vein exiting the soil.
2. Widening the dead wood on the front has the effect of widening the tree overall in that area as the live vein is redirected and begins to swell outward, so be aware of this as you work so you don't unwittingly set up the tree for reverse taper. You can always add more Shari lower and in the back to force the live veins to continue widening lower on the tree. This will help counteract the effects of the Shari in the front.
3. When you connect the Shari from phase 1 to phase 2, don't try to blend them, but allow the differences in depths to provide some texture.
4. You can Jin the top anytime.
View attachment 108668
And continue phase 3 to finalize defining the live veins:
View attachment 108669

Thanks Brian!

Good eye- it did have some spider mites but the infestation was minimal and they are gone/under control now.


I think your plan looks fantastic. I wasn't completely sure where the shari should go when I drew the virt but after seeing your drawing I think it looks good.


There is already slight reverse taper starting where the existing shari is- what do you suppose I should do to stop that?


Also, Is there anything I could/should be doing with the foliage at this time to eventually form the structure and foliage pads?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I think your plan looks fantastic. I wasn't completely sure where the shari should go when I drew the virt but after seeing your drawing I think it looks good.
Using a Sharpie to draw the intended Shari is always a good way to plan.

There is already slight reverse taper starting where the existing shari is- what do you suppose I should do to stop that?
I suppose you should carve in a way to rectify it.

Also, Is there anything I could/should be doing with the foliage at this time to eventually form the structure and foliage pads?
I would let it grow for now. Balance work and growth: carve now but leave foliage to pump up those live veins and add wood. Then when it's time to prune next spring, don't carve as hard (phase 2 is light carving), but prune away!

 

[sorce]

Just noting....

You pulled a Drew Drew in the title title!

@drew33998

Sorce

 

[JoeR]

Just noting....

You pulled a Drew Drew in the title title!

@drew33998

Sorce

Yeah I noticed that but I can't figure out how to edit the title!

 

[JoeR]

It grew well this season, vigorous whips all over. I forgot to post about it, but I completed Brian's phase #1. Which reminds me, I need to Lime Sulfur it...

The next step I think is removing all the unnecessary foliage, which happens to be 90% of it. I'm not familiar with junipers (or any conifer, for that matter) and so I'm lost when/how to chop it.

How much foliage is safe to remove at one time, and is spring the best time for this? Before actively growing or while its actively growing?

I am hoping to chop down to just the final branch, but also keep the portion of it that veers left (see pictures) for health purposes.

Help/comments always appreciated.

 

[hemmy]

@JoeR , what was your cuttings success rate? Also, what was substrate, did you cover them, and did you use bottom heat? Just curious, as I'd like to root some this spring.

Thanks

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

How much foliage is safe to remove at one time, and is spring the best time for this? Before actively growing or while its actively growing?

Chop in Spring, just as the foliage tips are getting bright and shiny. In the year you prune it back hard, don't repot.

 

[JoeR]

@JoeR , what was your cuttings success rate? Also, what was substrate, did you cover them, and did you use bottom heat? Just curious, as I'd like to root some this spring.

Thanks

I took about 100, and my success rate was roughly 90% (most of the 10% were too large or had a fungus and had to be thrown out). Struck in pure Perlite, in a mini greenhouse like structure (I'd post a picture but the hurricane got the best of it) on a timed mist. No bottom heat.

Some notes:
-Smaller ones did better, 'matchstick' sized is best. Pencil sized and larger didnt root for me.
-MARCH is the best time to take them.
-Perlite was maybe too water retentative, so a little bit of pine bark would be good.
-Rooting hormone showed little to no effect in MY experience. It may have just been an error on my end, but I would still skip it.

Hope this helps

 

[JoeR]

Chop in Spring, just as the foliage tips are getting bright and shiny. In the year you prune it back hard, don't repot.

Thanks Brian.

Any idea how much I can safely remove at one time?

 

[JoeR]

Look ready for some more carving now? @Brian Van Fleet . It seems healthy and vigorous to me, throwing some whips here and there... but I still removed less foliage than I hoped to. I'm not really used to conifers, and I didnt want to do too much too soon. And yeah crappy pictures that don't do justice as always.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

'Tis the season...