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sorce

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How bout that Shari?

@JoeR a Shari in that twist around is in that twist around because the tree itself is twisted around.

You can use Kathy's "connect the dots" method...but I fear the resulting edge would be rather...."liney", humpy, different yearerly of healing...yeah?....which would kill the line of the literati itself.

Because the real beauty in a Juniper is that Crisp line between D and L.

I Started these over again last night!

Jump to 2 minish.


S
 

Brian Van Fleet

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How bout that Shari?

@JoeR a Shari in that twist around is in that twist around because the tree itself is twisted around.

You can use Kathy's "connect the dots" method...but I fear the resulting edge would be rather...."liney", humpy, different yearerly of healing...yeah?....which would kill the line of the literati itself.

Because the real beauty in a Juniper is that Crisp line between D and L.

I Started these over again last night!

Jump to 2 minish.
S
Just remember that the L keeps growing, and will get swole.
 

JoeR

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How bout that Shari?

@JoeR a Shari in that twist around is in that twist around because the tree itself is twisted around.

You can use Kathy's "connect the dots" method...but I fear the resulting edge would be rather...."liney", humpy, different yearerly of healing...yeah?....which would kill the line of the literati itself.

Because the real beauty in a Juniper is that Crisp line between D and L.

I Started these over again last night!

Jump to 2 minish.


S
Hmm not sure what you’re saying here? That you don’t like the plan for the Shari perhaps? I see your point; it could be improved if I make it more static. If your point is that the line between the Shari and the live wood should be straight and “crisp” I could see that also, however I want it to still have a natural aesthetic to it. Although I don’t know what it will look like down the road, aka if I did “x” today, what will it look like ten years from now?

I’m also not familiar with Kathy’s dot method, I’ll have to google that one.
 

sorce

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not sure what you’re saying here

Horticulturally... It seems you MUST do it in stages, or it will sever all connection to the foliage...

And then.. Artistically.
Having done it in stages will leace a "chewed up" looking line.

I think you maybe better off actually twisting the tree....then removing the strip that will come off as that twisted strip with a clean line.

S
 

JoeR

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This was done a few weeks ago, just finding the time to share it. Essentially I just begun work on defining the branch pads, which don’t show in the pictures. In the future I plan on bringing the entire foliage mass closer to the trunk and tightening up the overall image. Additionally the potting angle may be changes as well as the drop branch will either need much more development or will otherwise be removed. Sorry for the busy background.
 

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JoeR

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Starting to wake up. Next week I’ll be connecting the Jin to the Shari, should make a big difference in overall flow and appearance. Debated a repot, too.
 

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JoeR

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Looks like the plan is coming together. You can prune it back now and wire it, assuming you’re not repotting it. A little primer:
https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2015/07/25/juniper-pinching-pruning-and-wiring/
I hadn’t planned on a repot, but I am slightly worried about the condition of the roots/soil. It was planted too high in the pot for starters. If it’s not too late I may prioritize that as opposed to a cutback.
 

cedarcanvas

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I’m a big fan of the progression of this tree. I’m a total beginner so can’t speak to much other than I like the aesthetic.

Also, this progression thread has been extremely helpful so thanks, Joe, and everyone whose provided input along the way. I’ll be watching this one!🍿
 

JoeR

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I’m a big fan of the progression of this tree. I’m a total beginner so can’t speak to much other than I like the aesthetic.

Also, this progression thread has been extremely helpful so thanks, Joe, and everyone whose provided input along the way. I’ll be watching this one!🍿
Glad its been of use to you man. I'm fairly pleased with its progress as well, and ill be working the shari a little more soon. Attached is a picture to show where the new work will be done. The foliage has gotten away from the overall design too, but since I'm not seeing an outstanding amount of whips I'll let it gain some vigor first.
 

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JoeR

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I would like any feedback or criticism that comes to mind.

I think the current apex is actually already too far from the future plan, so I think I am going to allow one of the branches to run and then build a new apex from that. And again, the bottom right branch will be jinned. I did not clean the bottom of the foliage pads because I had already reduced more than 50% of the foliage mass
 

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JoeR

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And @Smoke Here is an old picture from page one where you can see how the tree was built.
 

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Brian Van Fleet

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Joe, looking good. It’s definitely developing well. Good job keeping it healthy so you can advance the design.

This is part of the fun with Shimpaku junipers; they actually do grow and make progress you can see from one season to the next.

First glance, I’d be inclined to Jin the left branch, and turn the cascading right branch more to the right side, instead back toward the front. I’d also remove the little jins at the top.

Also, not really a rule, but as a rule, you don’t allow the foliage to grow taller than the Ten-Jin, so the foliage height of your tree is set below the green line. You’re there now, but as time goes on, you can bend and twist the apex to stay below it.
68AD3C9D-84FA-4D7B-B0B1-73677A140619.jpeg
 

JoeR

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Joe, looking good. It’s definitely developing well. Good job keeping it healthy so you can advance the design.

This is part of the fun with Shimpaku junipers; they actually do grow and make progress you can see from one season to the next.

First glance, I’d be inclined to Jin the left branch, and turn the cascading right branch more to the right side, instead back toward the front. I’d also remove the little jins at the top.

Also, not really a rule, but as a rule, you don’t allow the foliage to grow taller than the Ten-Jin, so the foliage height of your tree is set below the green line. You’re there now, but as time goes on, you can bend and twist the apex to stay below it.
View attachment 310274
Thanks Brian, not sure how I missed your reply.

I've been going back and forth about the left drop branch. It currently carries too much visual weight, so at minimum in the future it will be reduced significantly or removed. My hope in the future is that it will help add dimension to the tree and balance the design when smaller, but as the tree progresses I will be able to tell better. The other jins will likely be removed or shortened as well, figured it didn't hurt to leave them.

I agree, the bottom right branch should be wired more to the right in order to flow with the direction of the tree after jinning, thanks. Just have to move the guy wire higher

I'm hoping to get the apex maybe 1-2" lower than it is now, i left it largely unwired- i need to find some example videos or pictures before I finish it. Either there is not enough foliage there to work with, or I have no experience setting it on a juniper- probably some of both.
 

JoeR

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In fact, im hoping a new branch will replace the current apex and jin to the purple line
 

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