Garden Center Azalea Rootwork

[Srt8madness]

Local chain has a massive selection of Azaleas, and some Satsuki (well at least Satsuki hybrids). $10 for a gallon, $19 for 3 gal. I picked up 4 of the gal sized and one of the 3 gal.

My question is, how to proceed with getting rid of the huge root ball. They aren't root bound, but the root mass is double the size of the plant! I know Azaleas are resilient, do I just slice off 3/4th of that huge mass come spring? Also, the remaining ball would still be dense, do I need to rinse/rake to essentially bare root and put into bonsai soil?

Thanks!

(ps don't worry, I don't use those old loppers)

 

[Srt8madness]

Also my skin seems to be allergic to Azalea leaves...or there are bugs in their leaves that leave burning/itching spots where the leaves rub against my arms. Bummer

 

[penumbra]

Also my skin seems to be allergic to Azalea leaves...or there are bugs in their leaves that leave burning/itching spots where the leaves rub against my arms. Bummer

That is most peculiar. I wonder if they have been sprayed with something disagreeable.

 

[Esolin]

My question is, how to proceed with getting rid of the huge root ball. They aren't root bound, but the root mass is double the size of the plant! I know Azaleas are resilient, do I just slice off 3/4th of that huge mass come spring? Also, the remaining ball would still be dense, do I need to rinse/rake to essentially bare root and put into bonsai soil?

No, don't bare root an azalea. They have super fine, meshlike root systems and you'll do serious damage trying to remove all the nursery soil at once. It's common to slice or saw cut the bottom or sides of the root mass to reduce it, and then work small portions of the root ball in successive repotting sessions to replace the nursery soil with bonsai soil, a little at a time. According to Ryan Neil, the most sensitive root area is right beneath the trunk. Working this area weakens and sets an azalea back for a few years. I'd make sure it's very healthy before replacing the soil in that area, and then let it recover for a while. Good luck with your azalea!

 

[Shibui]

I grow quite a few azaleas and have had no problem reducing evergreen azalea roots by up to 80% in a single operation.
I have not washed the roots of azaleas but on a number of older collected azaleas I have raked as much garden soil a reasonably possible out of the few remaining roots. Again no problem with the plant after.
Spring and summer appear to be good times for doing azalea root work but I have dug garden azaleas at all times of year with good results down here.

 

[Maiden69]

No, don't bare root an azalea. They have super fine, meshlike root systems and you'll do serious damage trying to remove all the nursery soil at once.

This is completely the opposite from what Peter Warren and Bob Mahler state. The way they treat azaleas in Japan is to bareroot and cut hard when they are removed from the ground and placed into a training/bonsai container.

Some videos to watch.

 

[penumbra]

This is completely the opposite from what Peter Warren and Bob Mahler state. The way they treat azaleas in Japan is to bareroot and cut hard when they are removed from the ground and placed into a training/bonsai container.

Some videos to watch.

Wish I could take my azaleas to Japan so I could do that too.

 

[Maiden69]

Wish I could take my azaleas to Japan so I could do that too.

Has nothing to do with Japan, has to do with knowing what to do. The main reason people kill their azaleas doing so, and it is mentioned in Bob's video, is that people bareroot them like maples removing all the roots from the shin of the tree. That can not be done. But you can remove all native/nursery soil from them if they are growing strong.

 

[penumbra]

Has nothing to do with Japan, has to do with knowing what to do. The main reason people kill their azaleas doing so, and it is mentioned in Bob's video, is that people bareroot them like maples removing all the roots from the shin of the tree. That can not be done. But you can remove all native/nursery soil from them if they are growing strong.

You seriously saw no humor in my post?
I don't care what you do with your azaleas, that's your business.

 

[Srt8madness]

Thank you for the advice! I'll wait a few weeks and lop off the bulk of that root mass. Got a gumbo white, and Chinzan Satsukis, and a kurume? Semi dwarf. I don't have the brass to go all in on the roots. Well maybe on one, I do have 6 in nursery pots.

 

[Backwardsvg]

Also my skin seems to be allergic to Azalea leaves...or there are bugs in their leaves that leave burning/itching spots where the leaves rub against my arms. Bummer

I also have the same issue. Whenever I work on my azaleas I get red/white bumps and they are very itchy! @Srt8madness

I also did what I thought was a big no no and took a big box store encore azalea that had three trunks and split them up this winter. I took away most if not all nursery soil. I pulled them inside repotted with 100% kanuma, this is what they are looking like after 1 month. They seem to be extremely happy and are growing like weeds. I will say I did not touch under the trunks as much as I could but the rest I did reduce and wash to keep fine hairs but remove soil.

 

[AnutterBonsai]

Thank you for the advice! I'll wait a few weeks and lop off the bulk of that root mass. Got a gumbo white, and Chinzan Satsukis, and a kurume? Semi dwarf. I don't have the brass to go all in on the roots. Well maybe on one, I do have 6 in nursery pots.

hey there! from htx as well. where did you find yours if you dont mind me asking?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Good morning Everyone!

Sounds like you might have a case of mild contact dermatitis. Check out this link. Please don’t even think of eating the leaves . As a precaution wearing long waterproof gloves would protect you. Just like Mom used to use when washing dishing!

Concerning barerooting azaleas. This is standard practice in many places, not in others. The data used to support this revolves around dissimilar soils in the media causing root rot. This is possible as kanuma, which is used by most professionals, is very free draining soil, while ‘field soil‘. Is not.

Keeping nursery soil is another whole ball of wax as it usually contains peat and or bark which breaks down after a couple years, peat faster, bark slower. This situation also fosters root rot. Thus putting the an azalea in Kanuma with a core of peat based material is imho, sort of like putting a time bomb on a slow timer in the soil.

That said, some folks have done this and state their azaleas are perfectly fine. I have no reason to doubt them, yet I’m not privy to exactly the mix of soils that were in their pots after potting. It could of been a match for drainage characteristics.

Personally, a couple years I shifted a number of azaleas to Kanuma soil from nursery and other soil after what I thought was a good just washing the roots. It wasn’t a good job and each thrived for a year then about 1/3 started showing loss of vigor. When I took these trees out of the pot and examined the roots, sure enough root rot. Luckily most were saved after cutting out the visibly bad roots and tree with 3% H2O2 and repotting in Kanuma. One was so bad I planted it in the ground in the cold frame area in desperation and it, miraculously survived.

As far as root washing goes, I do it all the time, using a spray, chopstick and a basin of water. Alternately rinsing and gently (for me) chopsticling in the basin, then rinsing again and repeat… a lot If there is bark in the mix! I’ve rarely had a healthy azalea die afterwards.

Don’t worry about trimming the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the roots off first. Keep all the foliage you can. Then wait until the azalea is healthy, blooms and sends out new growth to start cutting back. btw I recommend cutting back azaleas in stages over two years for beginners, always leaving growth on as many stems as possible that remain. I know some folks do really radical cut backs, I’ve done this too, but don’t recommend it anymore. Too cautious nowadays for that. Others are bolder and that’s ok with me

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Backwardsvg]

Thank you for the advice! I'll wait a few weeks and lop off the bulk of that root mass. Got a gumbo white, and Chinzan Satsukis, and a kurume? Semi dwarf. I don't have the brass to go all in on the roots. Well maybe on one, I do have 6 in nursery pots.

Good morning Everyone!

Sounds like you might have a case of mild contact dermatitis. Check out this link. Please don’t even think of eating the leaves . As a precaution wearing long waterproof gloves would protect you. Just like Mom used to use when washing dishing!

Concerning barerooting azaleas. This is standard practice in many places, not in others. The data used to support this revolves around dissimilar soils in the media causing root rot. This is possible as kanuma, which is used by most professionals, is very free draining soil, while ‘field soil‘. Is not.

Keeping nursery soil is another whole ball of wax as it usually contains peat and or bark which breaks down after a couple years, peat faster, bark slower. This situation also fosters root rot. Thus putting the an azalea in Kanuma with a core of peat based material is imho, sort of like putting a time bomb on a slow timer in the soil.

That said, some folks have done this and state their azaleas are perfectly fine. I have no reason to doubt them, yet I’m not privy to exactly the mix of soils that were in their pots after potting. It could of been a match for drainage characteristics.

Personally, a couple years I shifted a number of azaleas to Kanuma soil from nursery and other soil after what I thought was a good just washing the roots. It wasn’t a good job and each thrived for a year then about 1/3 started showing loss of vigor. When I took these trees out of the pot and examined the roots, sure enough root rot. Luckily most were saved after cutting out the visibly bad roots and tree with 3% H2O2 and repotting in Kanuma. One was so bad I planted it in the ground in the cold frame area in desperation and it, miraculously survived.

As far as root washing goes, I do it all the time, using a spray, chopstick and a basin of water. Alternately rinsing and gently (for me) chopsticling in the basin, then rinsing again and repeat… a lot If there is bark in the mix! I’ve rarely had a healthy azalea die afterwards.

Don’t worry about trimming the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the roots off first. Keep all the foliage you can. Then wait until the azalea is healthy, blooms and sends out new growth to start cutting back. btw I recommend cutting back azaleas in stages over two years for beginners, always leaving growth on as many stems as possible that remain. I know some folks do really radical cut backs, I’ve done this too, but don’t recommend it anymore. Too cautious nowadays for that. Others are bolder and that’s ok with me

cheers
DSD sends

@Deep Sea Diver very interesting post. I will have to make sure I check on the roots to make sure not rot starts in a year or so. It is good to know and be on the look out for. I thought the removal of soil and placing in kanuma would end this worry but always good to have more information.

 

[Srt8madness]

hey there! from htx as well. where did you find yours if you dont mind me asking?

Houston Garden Center has gazillions of Azaleas right now, dirt cheap and in the two varieties "best" suited for bonsai. Also about two dozen other varieties as well.

 

[AnutterBonsai]

Houston Garden Center has gazillions of Azaleas right now, dirt cheap and in the two varieties "best" suited for bonsai. Also about two dozen other varieties as well.

That's great! thank you. I'll go look at the one in Clear Lake, is the closest one to me.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Too bad I’m not in Houston right now, it might be a speedy time!

@Srt8madness - If you do a good job root washing, no worries. Usually the rot is in under the trunk, a place where some folks you are too nervous to wash.

I’ve six chinzan here and a couple gumpos. The Chinzan are good goers. The Gumpos have hard wood. Kurumes are early bloomers.

good luck to both of you!

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Srt8madness]

Good morning Everyone!

Sounds like you might have a case of mild contact dermatitis. Check out this link. Please don’t even think of eating the leaves . As a precaution wearing long waterproof gloves would protect you. Just like Mom used to use when washing dishing!

Concerning barerooting azaleas. This is standard practice in many places, not in others. The data used to support this revolves around dissimilar soils in the media causing root rot. This is possible as kanuma, which is used by most professionals, is very free draining soil, while ‘field soil‘. Is not.

Keeping nursery soil is another whole ball of wax as it usually contains peat and or bark which breaks down after a couple years, peat faster, bark slower. This situation also fosters root rot. Thus putting the an azalea in Kanuma with a core of peat based material is imho, sort of like putting a time bomb on a slow timer in the soil.

That said, some folks have done this and state their azaleas are perfectly fine. I have no reason to doubt them, yet I’m not privy to exactly the mix of soils that were in their pots after potting. It could of been a match for drainage characteristics.

Personally, a couple years I shifted a number of azaleas to Kanuma soil from nursery and other soil after what I thought was a good just washing the roots. It wasn’t a good job and each thrived for a year then about 1/3 started showing loss of vigor. When I took these trees out of the pot and examined the roots, sure enough root rot. Luckily most were saved after cutting out the visibly bad roots and tree with 3% H2O2 and repotting in Kanuma. One was so bad I planted it in the ground in the cold frame area in desperation and it, miraculously survived.

As far as root washing goes, I do it all the time, using a spray, chopstick and a basin of water. Alternately rinsing and gently (for me) chopsticling in the basin, then rinsing again and repeat… a lot If there is bark in the mix! I’ve rarely had a healthy azalea die afterwards.

Don’t worry about trimming the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the roots off first. Keep all the foliage you can. Then wait until the azalea is healthy, blooms and sends out new growth to start cutting back. btw I recommend cutting back azaleas in stages over two years for beginners, always leaving growth on as many stems as possible that remain. I know some folks do really radical cut backs, I’ve done this too, but don’t recommend it anymore. Too cautious nowadays for that. Others are bolder and that’s ok with me

cheers
DSD sends

Wow, thanks for the detailed response!! I'm a little confused though, the suggestion is to leave the roots, wait till bloom, then cut back? At what point do you start reducing that big ol root mass?

I got a non bonsai cultivar back in early December- chopped it way back, and by Christmas it was pushing new growth. Texas winters, go figure. 12/8 & 1/8

 

[Srt8madness]

Too bad I’m not in Houston right now, it might be a speedy time!

@Srt8madness - If you do a good job root washing, no worries. Usually the rot is in under the trunk, a place where some folks you are too nervous to wash.

I’ve six chinzan here and a couple gumpos. The Chinzan are good goers. The Gumpos have hard wood. Kurumes are early bloomers.

good luck to both of you!

cheers
DSD sends

Sweet!! I grew up with big azalea bushes around the yard, so they have a very nostalgic feel for me.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Cut the roots, leave to shoots