Genus study - Amelanchier aka "Serviceberries"

Frozentreehugger

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Yes, I see a lot of clumps, triple-trunks, etc. Am. arborea is apparently the most likely to grow as a single trunk, but even those sucker quite easily. I'd guess that in the wild the only thing keeping the suckers in check are deer and other grazing animals.
Yes they sucker fairly easily . Kenorin. Is correct arborea and Allegheny are the most tree like . First with the spring growth you should be able to tell them apart . You could have both . But no matter very closely related . Allegheny will tolerate more shade . But what I’m seeing is in good light and soil they grow single trunk . But they are a small trunk slender tall rather feminine tree . ( think this should be embraced as bonsai ) when they are stressed they sucker or multi stem . If you look at mine exactly what happened too was broken . What I’m seeing where I go at my cottage . Rock crack and or on top of rock flats thin soil . Multi stem and suckers . Good soil and light 15 foot single tree . Or some tall multi stem . Personally I think there would be merit . To chop back a larger trunk . In the wild and let it regrow . For a few then collect they don’t get girth fast so I think you get what you collect
 

Kanorin

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I'll add that I don't see too many nice natural-looking clumps out there in my local club and in photos on this site and from North American bonsai shows. If you see a good one out in the wild, you should grab it! I think they are under-appreciated and under-utilized (especially for a genus like Amelanchier, where clump style makes lots of sense!).
 

HorseloverFat

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I'll add that I don't see too many nice natural-looking clumps out there in my local club and in photos on this site and from North American bonsai shows. If you see a good one out in the wild, you should grab it! I think they are under-appreciated and under-utilized (especially for a genus like Amelanchier, where clump style makes lots of sense!).
Noted! 🤩
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Most of the North American species of Amelanchier are shrubs, some of these are noted for propagating by runners, for example Amelanchier stolonifera.

Only the Appalachian species A. arborea and A. laevis have the tendency to be single trunk trees. This is the reason I recommended these 2 species and the nursery hybrid A. grandiflora. A. grandiflora is (arborea x laevis).

Nursery material tends to be grafted, because nurseries are set up to do grafting in wholesale quantities and with high yields. Cuttings are less reliable, so nurseries don't usually do cuttings. Ground layering can get the grafted scion onto their own roots if the graft junction is visually a problem. If you can't see the graft junction, then it is not a problem.

The other species of Amelanchier tend to be shrubs, which means they naturally sucker. Collecting local native species is great, it just means you have to plan on dealing with suckers coming from the roots. Sometimes you can find clumps that are attractive event though they have fairly slender trunks.. Sometimes you can find clumps of the shrubby species that have one or two trunks that are much larger diameter than the rest of the shrub. These can be pruned into a single trunk specimen.

But the shrubby specimens are more difficult to keep looking tree like, or keep attractive as a "clump" with a group of slender trunks.

Myself, I chose to work with x grandiflora, nursery stock, as it is easier to keep tree like. We had snow just a day ago, actually a snow-rain mix on Sunday, so mine has not started leafing out or flowering yet. But I've been happy with Amelanchier.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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I finally spent some time in my back yard, it turns out I missed my Amelanchier blooming, it probably bloomed around April 15. Weather was cold and wet and did not require me to check things for water, so I actually missed seeing mine in bloom this year. But the developing fruit says it did bloom. They really do bloom as or just before leaves open. Sort of a poor man's Ume.
 

Empty Mountain

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2 weeks ago I visited a local nursery with Canadian serviceberries (Amelanchier canadensis) and found the one specimen that had a good single trunk with some movement down low among a lot of muli-stemmed straight trunked material. I cut the trunk way down to a new leader keeping some branches with leaves (a couple lower branches were kept for now as sacrifices to thicken up the trunk). The plant is in nursery soil, the top is dressed with some pine bark after I removed a little bit of surface soil to investigate/uncover more of trunk. My question to you guys is would it be possible to further shorten the leader and branch by pruning above a node (see last picture) to bare wood with no foliage? Or is it likely a branch will die back to the trunk if I completely prune all its leaves off?

Since performing the drastic prune the tree has been pushing new leaves from the three branches at the top of the plant, while the lower two sacrifice branches have not grown any new leaves yet.

Thanks for reading, ong time lurker, first time poster!
 

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Kanorin

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Another question: would the spring repotting window be after the flowers emerge and before bud break of the leaves?

Thanks.
At least on the species that I'm familiar with the flowers and leaf buds are emerging at approximately the same time. Repot as the buds are swelling.
 

Kanorin

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I collected another large A. arborea this past February and it had a large root that I needed to remove once I got it home so that it had any chance of fitting in a bonsai pot some day (root was about 2.5" in diameter). Instead of discarding it, I put it in some bonsai soil in a pond basket and left the top 1-2 inches uncovered. Tune in next time to find out what happened...
 

Tums

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Have people seen grafted serviceberries in nurseries? The ones I've seen, mostly autumn brilliance, look like they were done from cuttings. Perhaps it's different for the cultivars sold as trees?
 

August

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Have people seen grafted serviceberries in nurseries? The ones I've seen, mostly autumn brilliance, look like they were done from cuttings. Perhaps it's different for the cultivars sold as trees?
I work at a garden center and I can say with confidence that 75% of our woody stock is grafted. I think that besides the typical advantages of having a stronger rootstock, it is much simpler, faster, and more successful to graft clones to roots rather than rooting clones. Ive even seen regular old species, e.g. Cercis and Catalpa, grafted, no idea why. But all of our three varieties of Amelanchier appear to be grafted. One of the many mysteries we have, here on the receiving side of the nursery shipments.
 

Javaman4373

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We have some large Amelanchier in our landscape, which by the way make very good firewood, if they happen to fall down. This spring when they were blooming, I noticed one on the edge of the lawn growing tight against a big sugar maple. I thought there was no future for it there, so I dug it out and stuck it in a clay pot. The amount of root I was able to extract with it was not that good. The leaves on its upper branches just gradually died back, so I chopped it down and waited to see what happened. The stump, which is about a bit over an inch in diameter with a main branch curving up from the base, responded with lots of new branches. My plan is to just let it grow this summer to create new roots. Some of the most vigorous branches come from the base and I plan to remove them later. It is hard to see what the structure is now with the foliage in the way. After reading this thread, I will look around for more promising Amelanchier collectable trees next spring.

SB 1.jpgSB 2.jpg
 

Frozentreehugger

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I am strongly concerned my collected one is not going to make it . The leaves were just starting to unfold when collected. ( they leaf out very early here before any other decid ) considering how loose the trunk was . Was surprised there was one main root . Still I improved the soil around the base 1 year before ( which helped with some root growth ) . Any way like always you wish you got more roots . But I felt there was enough . The unfolding leaves withered and died . And it has pushed no new growth . In my experience if it does not very soon it will not survive the winter . Live and learn and move on . Or sucks but part of the game
 

Kanorin

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This root cutting is growing strong, did some shoot selection where more than two shoots were there. Need to clean up that top cut wound too.5E3E4FD9-AEF2-4C80-80F1-260E678FB3FB.jpeg
 

Kanorin

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Getting some impressive leaf reduction on this “autumn brilliance” amelanchier just by some standard May pruning. Pretty confident they will get smaller still with more ramification.
First flush vs second flush shown for comp.D3CC9EE1-C3CB-4788-803F-0E085A636D05.jpeg
 

Kanorin

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More wound cleanup on a collected amelanchier. Let’s see how fast it can close up this two inch wound.750754EB-1292-4A2E-A51D-579E3A2340FD.jpeg
 

HorseloverFat

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I have been hunting..

But STILL, the only ones that grow near me "lean into" clump style and do not really ever "thicken/bark"-up..

Even the large bushes we consistently pick from..
 
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