I have an opportunity to access both of the above trees in my area. Which method works best for them and does it work pretty well or is it iffy? If I air layer, I would want to get as big of a trunk as possible. What is max size I should try? Thanks for help?
Ginko and Cork Bark Elm...air layer or shoot grow?
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Leo in N E Illinois
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Both ginkgo and cork bark elm air layer well. Ginkgo is slow - an air layer will take all summer, occasionally 2 summers, but it will work.
Cork bark elm, can root very quickly, in as little as 6 weeks, or it can take longer, but much more quickly than ginkgo.
Cuttings, both will root from cuttings. Cork bark elm, even fairly large diameter cuttings will root. Most people use semi-hardwoord cuttings, usually taken in late July or early August in my area. But hardwood (later season) cuttings also work. Hardwood cuttings would also be your larger diameter cuttings. I would take these in September. Keep them over the winter the same way you would winter an adult cork bark elm tree with roots.
Ginkgo from cuttings is tricky. I have failed every time I tried. But I have heard it can be done. The ones who had success took the cuttings in late autumn, after the leaves have dropped. Then planted them, and kept them cool, bright, above freezing but below normal household temperatures. I believe in the 40's for the winter. You will need to explore the posts here by others, and maybe check out Dirr, his book is in many public libraries. "Propagation of Woody Trees and Shrubs' by Michael Dirr. It is an old book, through many editions and printings. Mine is the 2008 6th edition, but I can not find it right now. Lost somewhere in my office.
Cork bark elm, can root very quickly, in as little as 6 weeks, or it can take longer, but much more quickly than ginkgo.
Cuttings, both will root from cuttings. Cork bark elm, even fairly large diameter cuttings will root. Most people use semi-hardwoord cuttings, usually taken in late July or early August in my area. But hardwood (later season) cuttings also work. Hardwood cuttings would also be your larger diameter cuttings. I would take these in September. Keep them over the winter the same way you would winter an adult cork bark elm tree with roots.
Ginkgo from cuttings is tricky. I have failed every time I tried. But I have heard it can be done. The ones who had success took the cuttings in late autumn, after the leaves have dropped. Then planted them, and kept them cool, bright, above freezing but below normal household temperatures. I believe in the 40's for the winter. You will need to explore the posts here by others, and maybe check out Dirr, his book is in many public libraries. "Propagation of Woody Trees and Shrubs' by Michael Dirr. It is an old book, through many editions and printings. Mine is the 2008 6th edition, but I can not find it right now. Lost somewhere in my office.
KiwiPlantGuy
Omono
Hi Peter,
Not to disagree with @Leo in N E Illinois, as his posts are always reliable, but I have similar method of success regarding Ginkgo.
I realize you may not have the prop facilities, so this may not be possible. I have successfully rooted Ginkgo via semi-hardwood mid Summer (Jan my hemisphere ) at 75%. I did have a bit of help with misting all day, and rooting hormone etc. Two seasons on is one of my cuttings below
Charles
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Max size should be way far down on your list.
More important to find good taper transitions, maybe even beginning branches.
Remember don't layer straight across, so you get movement straight from the soil line. \\
Accessibility/Also hiding is important too.
Sorce
Silentrunning
Chumono
To add to Leo’s excellent post - NEVER let the soil dry out on the Elm cuttings. I lost 2 beautiful leafed out cuttings due to them drying out while I was on vacation.
Thanks all for input. I have better access to Cork Bark so will air layer that one for a first try. With air layering I will use a damp soil mix with a plastic wrap with tin foil over that I think. It should be pretty air tight. Will I have a problem with the soil drying out. It will be 2 hours from me in a different town is why I ask.
Leo in N E Illinois
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@KiwiPlantGuy - Hi Charles, don't worry, you are not disagreeing with me. As I said, I have yet to successfully root ginkgo, you have had success, photo included. Different techniques can certainly work. You used semi-hardwood cuttings, and were able to mist them and otherwise care for them and they rooted. I tried hardwood cuttings with no mist. and failed. Scott Lee used hardwood cuttings taken in late winter, or early spring, and he had success. So there are various techniques that will work. Good work on your part to have success. You have ''the touch''.
In a commercial propagator's facility, I have seen greenhouses where the beds are all heated to 26 or 27 C (roughly 80 F) there are fans moving air constantly and mist comes on every 15 minutes keeping everything dripping wet. The minute things get to only damp the mist is on again. Here they were rooting cutting of things I assumed could not be rooted from cuttings. So it all depends on the environment you can create.
But ginkgo is considered to be of medium difficulty to root. Where elm is considered quite easy to root.
In a commercial propagator's facility, I have seen greenhouses where the beds are all heated to 26 or 27 C (roughly 80 F) there are fans moving air constantly and mist comes on every 15 minutes keeping everything dripping wet. The minute things get to only damp the mist is on again. Here they were rooting cutting of things I assumed could not be rooted from cuttings. So it all depends on the environment you can create.
But ginkgo is considered to be of medium difficulty to root. Where elm is considered quite easy to root.
Leo...you say that Cork Bark elm is pretty easy to shoot grow. I'm not sure I understand "hard wood" and "semi-hardwood" cuttings. Could you help me there? I would like to get 1" trunk to start with. Is that possible? Thanks!
Leo in N E Illinois
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One inch diameter cuttings are possible. In your area, semi-hardwood would be cuttings taken of this year's current growth sometime between August 1 and Sept 1.
One inch diameter growth is probably older than this year's current growth. This automatically means that you cutting (shoot) will have to be older than one year. THis is a hardwood cutting. Meaning the cutting is old enough that the wood of the interior has fully formed. Best time to take hardwood cuttings is in autumn, After October 1st through until the ground freezes. You can also take hardwood cuttings in spring as soon as the ground thaws through until the time new buds are expanding into leaves.
Makes sense?
One inch diameter growth is probably older than this year's current growth. This automatically means that you cutting (shoot) will have to be older than one year. THis is a hardwood cutting. Meaning the cutting is old enough that the wood of the interior has fully formed. Best time to take hardwood cuttings is in autumn, After October 1st through until the ground freezes. You can also take hardwood cuttings in spring as soon as the ground thaws through until the time new buds are expanding into leaves.
Makes sense?
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
That does not look like an elm to me... but the leaves are really young. Any way you can get a better (close-up) picture? When he removed the tree did he pull the stump? Or did he just grind it down to soil level? If he simply ground it down without treating it, it will absolutely sprout new growth from the stump.
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AlainK
Imperial Masterpiece
Elm cuttings don't need as much care, and paraphanelia. But if you have amisting system and a mini greenhouse, it works for species that are hard to air-layer. A friend of mine rooted various Japanese maples reputed to be impossible to root from cuttings. And... they died the following summer for lack of watering, same story again.
For ginkgos, I've never tried cuttings but a friend told me they're fairly easy to root in a cold frame just before budding.
AlainK
Imperial Masterpiece
I think it is: the leaves look like vigorous leaves from a trunk that was cut, and elms bud out from roots. Maybe it's a root whose top was ewposed in the process of removing a tree.
MAPLE
Seedling
@Peter44 have a look at the link below. Corkbark Elms will root from large cuttings so im sure air layering will be successful at almost any size. The link and info are of a person based in South Africa and since our climates differ drastically im sure results might too however he offers a unique tip about letting the cutting develop a ''slime'' at the base before planting.
www.bonsaitree.co.za
Cork bark elm cuttings the easy way
Cuttings are a fun method of creating new bonsai. From a field grown Cork Bark Elm I recently purchased, I create 10 exciting cuttings detailing each step with text and photos for you to follow. There is also a secret which I share with you on taking cuttings of this species which will greatly...
www.bonsaitree.co.za
