Good Japanese Maple fungicide?

cmeg1

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Right away I am thinking Bonide Infuze granual systemic so there is nothing on the foliage…..

What have you all?
 

penumbra

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I spray infuse. It dries and there is nothing on the foliage.
 

bwaynef

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Its not what you're asking, but the most effective treatment against fungus for maples that I've found is a dormant spray of Lime Sulfur.
 

Ohmy222

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I use bonide spray and granules. Serious maple growers use a product called Phyton 35. Pretty expensive but almost every grower I know uses it.
 

Jzack605

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There’s no such thing as the best fungicide for a specific species.

you need to identify the problem you are treating or treating preventatively.

there are no free rides when it comes to treating plant pests and diseases. Pretty rare to find a chemical that addresses all problems. In fact I don’t think one exists.

not to mention it’s bad cultural practice to rely on one chemical.

I’d strive to have three different ai products at your finger tips to address the myriad of issues they JM have. Four would be even better.
 
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i alternate between liquid infuse and clearys 3336. i was going to layer in bonide copper as well to catch the wisest possible range. plenty of time between sprayings of each, not all at once, i think i wait about 10 days between sprayings.

early in the season, infuse granules.

my spraying has largely been preventative. ive used daconil for a root drench on two plants though, to help them with a quince rust.

i have a feeling this may be overkill, particularly for my region, but it’s very humid right now and the plants don’t seem to mind.

oh…. i only spray my pines / junipers / etc to protect the mycorrhiza in the soil. i haven’t had the need or desire to try a drench on those.
 

Eric Schrader

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As JZack605 said...I'll rephrase:

Fungicides are rated for use on particular plants, but most bonsai fall into the "Ornamental" category. The more important question is what pathogen you are treating? That should determine which fungicide. Keep in mind the FRAC groups and alternate treatments to avoid development of resistance to any individual treatment.


If you are treating for Powdery Mildew or Downey Mildew you would be treating differently than for a pathogen in the roots.
Winter treatment with Lime Sulfur is a great preventative, as is using ZeroTol while transplanting to reduce the chance of cross contamination from infected plants into others.
Lab tests are expensive, but if you can't figure out what's happening, then it can be cheaper than a crap-shoot of trying to treat something with the wrong fungicide.
 

cmeg1

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Powdery mildew it looks on japanese maple..
I probably just had all the young seedlings to close together but I’m growing more and I want to be prepared this time.
I’m thinking I’ll try mancozeb
 
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