Grafting maples

ysrgrathe

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I know we don't normally use grafted maples for bonsai, but I'm interested to see what I can learn about grafting this spring. I have some cultivars that are hard to layer and I'd still like to propagate them.

I'm particularly interested in
1) Are there techniques to reduce the visibility of the graft? Most nursery trades seem to use side veneer grafts for Japanese maples, is that the best? What about the tools used in the fruit tree trade that are designed to produce matching cuts?
2) How low can one graft? I would think lower would be better in terms of hiding the graft.

Would love to learn from those with experience. I have enough rootstock for 27 practice attempts. ;)
 

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Shibui

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Low grafts are generally far less visible as the change from roots to trunk often looks different anyhow. You can graft right down to the base of the rootstock though I haven't done that with maples, yet. It is also possible to graft directly onto a root - again, I have not done that with maples.
Not sure why side veneer graft is favoured for maples, possibly because they occasionally die back when cut. I assume that it is used because it is more successful but you may elect to sacrifice some success for less obvious grafts.
I don't have extensive experience but have successfully used cleft grafts for weeping varieties of Japanese maple and cleft or whip and tongue for other upright varieties. Whip or whip and tongue grafts are usually the most unobtrusive graft when done well. Using the same diameter scion and rootstock usually results in less obvious graft. Varieties with similar bark characteristics are also harder to spot when grafted.
 

ysrgrathe

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Thank you both. I read through the entire @markyscott thread, very helpful.

There isn't a ton of information specifically on rootstock grafts and how to make them look good; most of the materials are on detached scion, approach or thread grafting to add branches to an existing tree.

One interesting resource I found was this textbook which is freely available online; chapters 11 and 12 are especially helpful on this topic. Davies specifically mentions chip budding as viable for Acer spp. which is not a technique I've seen before in bonsai.
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/faculty/davies/ph final.html
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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I used a T cut, to graft buds onto my crab apple, the buds are now the branches. The T cut is a variation of Chip Budding. Works well when the understock receiving the bud is fairly large in diameter compared to the buds. Not easy on small diameter twigs.
 

Shibui

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I understand that T budding is used in spring/summer when sap is running and the bark will lift. Chip budding does not require the bark to lift away from the wood so can be done in winter and before sap movement in spring. I assume you can also chip bud in summer?
Some species have thick bark which is difficult to lift without breaking the flaps. Patch budding is used for these species but I can't see why chip budding would not work also.

One problem with budding for bonsai is that it can be difficult to get the buds to shoot after healing unless you drastically prune the upper parts of the stock. Good for grafting a new variety onto a rootstock but not so useful for adding lower branches or inner shoots to existing trees.
 

0soyoung

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One problem with budding for bonsai is that it can be difficult to get the buds to shoot after healing unless you drastically prune the upper parts of the stock. Good for grafting a new variety onto a rootstock but not so useful for adding lower branches or inner shoots to existing trees.
The problem is because of the inhibitive effects of auxin from the buds and foliage above, I think. On can make a small notch above the grafted bud (clear through into the wood) to remove this inhibition - at least it is worth a try. Were I a commercial grower, I wouldn't have the time/$$ for this fussing --> just cut it off and move on!
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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I don't have enough grafting experience to say yes, no or maybe. I did do the T bud grafting in August, and had no problem with the grafted buds growing in spring. I should get back to doing more, but right now don't have the time.
 
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