Grafting Question and a Juniper

[fore]

A neighbor gave me two of these junipers...no idea what kind. Soft pulling to tips, but sharp going pushing towards the trunk. Plus, it only puts branches out the side. Not great at all but didn't want to insult neighbor. So I thought I could practice grafting in them at the very least. ANyone know what kind of Juniper this might be?

But one thing occurred to me on grafts in general. If say you graft on shimpaku, what about all the NEW growth? Wouldn't it still be pushing out the nasty original foliage? So with grafts, do you have to constantly cut off growth of the orig. foliage?

Here's a pic:




Thanks!!!

 

[Poink88]

Chris,

Not an answer to your question but after seeing the pics, it reminded me of this thread of mine. Might help.
http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?8725-Fingernails-receding-any-remedies

 

[Dav4]

But one thing occurred to me on grafts in general. If say you graft on shimpaku, what about all the NEW growth? Wouldn't it still be pushing out the nasty original foliage? So with grafts, do you have to constantly cut off growth of the orig. foliage?

QUOTE]

If you're grafting to completely change the original foliage to another, you have to let the original foliage on the stock tree grow freely for a while, along with the newly grafted foliage, until the graft has taken, which may take a year or longer. After that, you start to gradually remove the original foliage while letting the grafted foliage grow freely, until only the new foliage remains.

 

[fore]

But one thing occurred to me on grafts in general. If say you graft on shimpaku, what about all the NEW growth? Wouldn't it still be pushing out the nasty original foliage? So with grafts, do you have to constantly cut off growth of the orig. foliage?

QUOTE]

If you're grafting to completely change the original foliage to another, you have to let the original foliage on the stock tree grow freely for a while, along with the newly grafted foliage, until the graft has taken, which may take a year or longer. After that, you start to gradually remove the original foliage while letting the grafted foliage grow freely, until only the new foliage remains.

To make sure I understand Dave, so after sev yrs or so, the orig. tree will not push anymore of the original foliage and only grow new, say shimpaku, foliage?
Thanks!

 

[Dav4]

To make sure I understand Dave, so after sev yrs or so, the orig. tree will not push anymore of the original foliage and only grow new, say shimpaku, foliage?
Thanks!

That's the plan, but it means you've got to eventually prune away all of the original foliage...if some remains, it will continue to grow. You need to leave the original foliage on there for a few years post grafting to keep the tree alive while the graft takes.

This is shimpaku foliage I grafted onto a Parsons juniper last year. Over the next year or two, I plan on cutting back the original foliage further down the branch until eventually, only shimpaku foliage remains. It's possible that the original parsons foliage could pop somewhere closer to the trunk (if it does, I'll remove it), but not anywhere on the graft itself I hope that helps.

 

[fore]

That's the plan, but it means you've got to eventually prune away all of the original foliage...if some remains, it will continue to grow. You need to leave the original foliage on there for a few years post grafting to keep the tree alive while the graft takes.

This is shimpaku foliage I grafted onto a Parsons juniper last year. Over the next year or two, I plan on cutting back the original foliage further down the branch until eventually, only shimpaku foliage remains. It's possible that the original parsons foliage could pop somewhere closer to the trunk (if it does, I'll remove it), but not anywhere on the graft itself I hope that helps.

That helps tremendously Dave. And the fact that post grafting, it won't push it's orig. foliage out is amazing. Thanks!

Oh, is that a approach graft?

 

[jkd2572]

Dave
I have a San Jose that I would like to try this on. I also have the shimpakus to do it. Can you give us instructions and possibly pics of the graft site?

 

[Poink88]

That's the plan, but it means you've got to eventually prune away all of the original foliage...if some remains, it will continue to grow. You need to leave the original foliage on there for a few years post grafting to keep the tree alive while the graft takes.

This is shimpaku foliage I grafted onto a Parsons juniper last year. Over the next year or two, I plan on cutting back the original foliage further down the branch until eventually, only shimpaku foliage remains. It's possible that the original parsons foliage could pop somewhere closer to the trunk (if it does, I'll remove it), but not anywhere on the graft itself I hope that helps.

Details please Dave. How big is your tree? How many grafts did you apply?

I have a similar project (Torulosa) planned but waiting for the tree to recover from the chop before starting my grafts. Purchased 6 Shimpaku starters for it and each may be grafted in multiple sites if they are close enough.

According to Smoke, applying multiple graft is not an insult so I will attempt it next year. Of course I will need to decide on the design first (the difficult part).

Thank you.

 

[Dav4]

Dave
I have a San Jose that I would like to try this on. I also have the shimpakus to do it. Can you give us instructions and possibly pics of the graft site?

I'll give it a shot. Mind you...no one has ever actually shown me how to do this. I've sort of developed my process based on articles I've read in Bonsai Focus and Bonsai Today.

The tree receiving the approach grafts is a nice, old twisted trunk Parson's Juniper I purchased years ago. After working for many years with the existing foliage, which is coarse and a fungal/spider mite magnet, I decided to swap it out for shimpaku.

I had a nice assortment of shimpaku whips, started as cuttings, to chose from. The trunk midway down the whip is stripped of foliage and a grafting knife is used to cut through the cambium into the water wood, forming a wedge. Then, using the grafting knife again, a wedge shaped notch is cut into the branch or trunk where you want the graft to take.

 

[Dav4]

One of the keys with approach grafting is to keep the scion from moving...if it wiggles or moves, the graft is likely to fail. I use household push pins to hold the graft in place, followed by grafting tape wrapped multiple times around the branch and scion. You can also see how I attach the pots of the shimpaku scion materal to the stock.

 

[Dav4]

Here are some close ups of the grafts after a bit, and the tree as a whole. So far, 2 grafts have taken, and there are 4 more that I started this year. I'm hoping to be done grafting this one in 2 more years.

 

[Dav4]

Details please Dave. How big is your tree? How many grafts did you apply?

I have a similar project (Torulosa) planned but waiting for the tree to recover from the chop before starting my grafts. Purchased 6 Shimpaku starters for it and each may be grafted in multiple sites if they are close enough.

According to Smoke, applying multiple graft is not an insult so I will attempt it next year. Of course I will need to decide on the design first (the difficult part).

Thank you.

The tree is pushing two feet tall and wide with a 4" trunk and 1" plus branches (where I'm applying some of the grafts). last year I started 6 grafts...only 2 took...but I refined my technique a bit, making the notch in the stock deep and SECURELY fixing it with the pins and tape. This year, I started 4 more. By the way, I'm planning on grafting my Hollywood juniper, as well.

 

[jkd2572]

What is your method for rooting the shimpaku cuttings? I tried a couple this past year and they died.

 

[Dav4]

What is your method for rooting the shimpaku cuttings? I tried a couple this past year and they died.

I take shimpaku cuttings In January into February. Basically, they will be hardwood, maybe 4-6" long, anywhere from just under 1/4" to over 1/2" in diameter, with healthy and strong growing foliage...If I can include a bit of heel, I will, but I don't think it's imperative. Dip the cut ends in Rootone hormone and stick them in any container with Natures Helper soil condition (basically composted bark- a great potting soil medium), or the equivalent. Place the container out of direct sunlight, keep moist, and wait for new growth to push later that summer. Here's a pic of this year's crop.

 

[fore]

Surprisingly, I cannot find the best times to graft junipers and Pines. If I'm not mistaken it's in January?

 

[Poink88]

Surprisingly, I cannot find the best times to graft junipers and Pines. If I'm not mistaken it's in January?

As I understood it, it is a bit complicated.

The best time is once the recipient starts to wake up but when the donor is still sleeping. Some cheat by putting the donor in a colder place than the receiving tree. I've read others collect scions and keep them in the fridge.

I did mine when I saw new growth pushing on the main tree...so far all grafts are still very green and showing some signs of growth at the tips actually.

On approach graft (in case you are planning on that)...I did mine while the tree is actively growing and they seem to heal and take very fast.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

The tree receiving the approach grafts is a nice, old twisted trunk Parson's Juniper I purchased years ago. After working for many years with the existing foliage, which is coarse and a fungal/spider mite magnet, I decided to swap it out for shimpaku.

Dave, with the approach grafts on junipers about how long do you wait to make the separation cut?

 

[fore]

As I understood it, it is a bit complicated.

The best time is once the recipient starts to wake up but when the donor is still sleeping. Some cheat by putting the donor in a colder place than the receiving tree. I've read others collect scions and keep them in the fridge.

I did mine when I saw new growth pushing on the main tree...so far all grafts are still very green and showing some signs of growth at the tips actually.

On approach graft (in case you are planning on that)...I did mine while the tree is actively growing and they seem to heal and take very fast.

That's what I thought. Next yr Thx Dario

 

[Dav4]

Dave, with the approach grafts on junipers about how long do you wait to make the separation cut?

About a year, though that can vary on how well the scion Is growing.

 

[Poink88]

That's what I thought. Next yr Thx Dario

Chris,

Just FYI I decided to experiment and apply some grafts in the middle of the summer. Some took!

I am planning on doing more (experimental grafting) in a few weeks since our temps are at low 90s now and our "2nd spring" in TX is coming.