Grafting RMJ with Shimpaku (IMBEDDED PHOTOS)

[wahoo172]

Vic, thank you for answering my questions. I am going to use this technique next year.

 

[bonsai barry]

I'm glad this post has been resurrected. How are you sure where the live vein is into which to cut the channel?

 

[Victrinia Ensor]

Fortunately with most junipers.... live veins are fairly obvious. When working with young material most any spot on a potential tree is a viable possibility... when working with older material the careful removal of outer bark layers will reveal a definite difference both in form and color in the areas which are alive. The live parts will tend to be raised in height in comparison to others around it, and the inner bark will be a bright red with white tissue just below as compared to dull red and lifeless areas around it. You'll often find that there is a definite flow and movement to those live areas on particularly old specimens - being able to follow them up from ground level along their various divergences to the living branches along the tree, and all the way up to the crown. Often times when determining where all the live areas are around a dead face we'll use a die grinder to explore those surfaces since we'll be carving/texturing them in any case... and when doing that the dead areas will carve very cleanly, where once you get to the edge you'll find the wood frays apart, due to the moisture in the wood, as well as the presence of the pink and white tissue I mentioned.

All wood added to a tree only occurs where live areas exsist. The cambium layer which later becomes sapwood then heartwood only develops under the parts of the bark which are alive. Hence why the veins will be raised in height and form as compared to those parts of the tree which are no longer growing. Again, this is most evident on trees where the difference has been developing over a protracted period of time. It also contributes to the beautiful twisted forms that junipers develop over centuries.

Hope this helps.

Victrinia

 

[Victrinia Ensor]

Of course let me mention that you have to match the width of your whip to the area you are wishing to add foliage. I would not remove much more than 50 percent of the living channel to graft a whip. You want to make sure the supply line is still strong above the point of the graft to keep the upper areas alive.

Carefully fitting your channels and whips is critical to success... always be conservative in your excavations until you have the perfect fit... it only takes a moment to blow that potential out of the water completely.

V

 

[Dwight]

Any progress report on this guy ?

 

[Dan W.]

Do you have any updates on this to share with us?

 

[Ang3lfir3]

its been a few years but so far almost all of the shimp scions have been severed from their roots .... so far it seems to have taken but we aren't 100% sure yet. This year we will know more and hopefully the shimpaku will begin to show some real strength. The process takes longer here in our climate as we don't have the heat for long periods that they do in Cali. hopefully in a few years these will do ready for initial styling. If all goes well the RMJ foliage will removed and the larger sections of the branches jinned..

there are a few grafts that may need to be tried again or simply create a design around what has taken.

 

[Dan W.]

Thanks! Be sure to post some pic's when you begin styling.

 

[october]

This is a very good pictoral of grafting. I like this technique. It seems a bit simpler that the other ones. I have a couple of questions. Generally, when a zion or whip is attached. The whip is inserted into a very shallow cut into the parent plant. This is so that cambium against cambium in both whip and host are achieved. In the pics, it looks like it is cambium again just mostly deadwood, except for a little bit on the side. I am seeing this correctly? ..Edit....Also, when the graft takes, it is then severed at the point of entry on the tree, correct?

Rob