Grafting technique!

bonhe

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Cut wires to release the pressure in areas
15.png 16.png

Completed
17.png

San Jose juniper needles
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To produce the stock for grafting, I have been keeping one big shimpaku for cutting.
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For whoever likes to grow shimpaku: it grows very slowly on its own roots comparing to Prostrata, San Jose or Foemina juniper. That is why we should graft shimpaku on the above rootstocks. Beside that, propagation of Prostrata is extremely easy via cutting.
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bonhe

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When we come to grafting decision, we have to choose which one is suitable for the tree if we have a choice. However, most of the time we don't have a choice, for example when I come to visit my friend's garden, I find a very nice specimen to which I can graft on my tree. My friend gives me a piece of branch. By that, the only way to make a grafting is side graft, not inarching graft.

Below table is showing the difference between side and inarching graft.
|Side graft| Inarching graft
Need of a tree for scion £ |No| Yes
Size of the scion @ |small short| big long
Moving the pot |Yes| No
Fungal infection § |Yes| No
Time-consuming|No| Yes
Direct sunlight ¥ |No| Yes
Success rate|+++| ++++++


£ can only perform side graft with one piece of scion.

@
With the inarching graft, we can get a well mature branch in very short time.

Must move the pot into the shady area after finishing side graft.

§ Due to the confined space (in the bag), fungal infection of the scion is high. Must make sure that the scion is free of infection for the graft.

¥ Side graft is hardly survived under direct sunlight right after the task.

Welcome to the happiness of the grafting!
Bonhe
 
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barrosinc

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When inarching, Do fertilize heavily? Both, the donor and the grafted plant? Only the donor?
 

bonhe

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When inarching, Do fertilize heavily? Both, the donor and the grafted plant? Only the donor?
As a general rule, if we want to get a good response from the tree to which we are working with, the tree health should be in excellent stage. By that, both trees should be properly fed ( not to little, not too much)
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bonhe

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This is cork pine grafted on the landscape regular JBP. Reason: want to keep the cork pine stock, so that I can use it for grafting later on. It was grafted about 5 years ago. My gardener has kept pruning it short :(!! You see the difference of the bark of regular and cork pine. It is why when we do grafting cork pine on regular black pine, you must graft really low, almost next to the soil line to prevent this ugly part later on!
1.png 2.png

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bonhe

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This is an update for the tree in # 58 - 61
I brought it out this morning to do some work. It is growing well.
2.png

The loose ties are still there.
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Removed the ties completely. Wait! There is something in the stump! It is weird, isn't it?
9.png

The stump was cut off.
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Look at it closer. What does it mean?
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The grafted site. The scion and stock will be completely fused in a few years. It will be very hard to recognize the graft if the owner does not tell you!
15.png

(cont.)
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bonhe

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San Jose needles are still staying in one branch
7.png

Because it fulfilled its purpose, it was time to totally removed SJ needles and made temporary jin.
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Its surface roots.
14.png

Future plan for this tree.
17.png

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BonjourBonsai

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Just read this thread. Great stuff! I'm contemplating grafting a branch of a San Jose juniper onto itself. Any update on this tree? Thanks.
 

bonhe

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Just read this thread. Great stuff! I'm contemplating grafting a branch of a San Jose juniper onto itself. Any update on this tree? Thanks.
Thanks for bringing this topic up!
I did not do anything for this tree since then yet! I just fed and watered it. It is growing strong. Just took pictures to show you.
B17625E9-0A4B-49B2-9213-8F8088FCE353.jpeg 7981AB65-6AC7-44A4-8D3A-EA191BF1C7C6.jpeg F84EB9AA-35F7-4119-B75D-8F3F721DD4B7.jpeg

the grafted sites
1206472B-4EA6-4324-B4B2-21FFFDC78008.jpeg AC813F0A-1A21-4D71-BE39-505F967B7331.jpeg
Good luck to your project
Thụ Thoại
 
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