Gray Oak repotted

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
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After letting this Gray Oak I got from Alavaro Arciniegas http://www.chobonsai.com sit for the last two years to acclimate to Va., I repotted it.

Photos are bad, but you get the idea. First one is of the oak when I got it in Texas in 2017. The tree pushing to the left is an in-ground arakawa that is always in the way :)greoak2.jpgoakpotted.jpgoakpot.jpg

The buds on this oak (like those on my other Texas live oak) don't move quickly in the spring. While I completed all my repotting on maples elms, etc. the buds on this one remained tight until last weekend. not unusual, as my other live oak pushes new growth in late March/early April, as they do in the wild. The new growth pushes off older leaves, so the green mostly remains on the tree all year --which is why live oaks are called "live" They don't lose all their leaves in the fall and aren't bare.

Anyway, I moved this oak from the container made for it by Alvaro to accommodate an odd (like most collected trees) shaped root mass into a bonsai pot. That old container was falling apart.

The move may seem drastic, but it probably isn't (fingers crossed--I've not worked roots on this species before). I was able to make the move because the tree was "pocket collected" that is it had been growing in a natural bowl of stone in the wild, which forced it to make a relatively compact root mass. The tree grew very strongly last year, putting on several three foot extension shoots --which have been removed.

I was not all that aggressive with root pruning, however, I did manage to replace about 70 percent of the soil in the root mass, as well as remove the furthest extending root which had died back. I also removed several large pieces of stone and a lot of mucky field soil.

I used a soil mix that incorporates regular bonsai soil, pumice and some other stuff. We'll see how things go.

Pot is Chinese with lion "handles" on the sides. Don't know if this is the final container, but it will work for a while.
 

arcina

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After letting this Gray Oak I got from Alavaro Arciniegas http://www.chobonsai.com sit for the last two years to acclimate to Va., I repotted it.

Photos are bad, but you get the idea. First one is of the oak when I got it in Texas in 2017. The tree pushing to the left is an in-ground arakawa that is always in the way :)View attachment 237391View attachment 237392View attachment 237393

The buds on this oak (like those on my other Texas live oak) don't move quickly in the spring. While I completed all my repotting on maples elms, etc. the buds on this one remained tight until last weekend. not unusual, as my other live oak pushes new growth in late March/early April, as they do in the wild. The new growth pushes off older leaves, so the green mostly remains on the tree all year --which is why live oaks are called "live" They don't lose all their leaves in the fall and aren't bare.

Anyway, I moved this oak from the container made for it by Alvaro to accommodate an odd (like most collected trees) shaped root mass into a bonsai pot. That old container was falling apart.

The move may seem drastic, but it probably isn't (fingers crossed--I've not worked roots on this species before). I was able to make the move because the tree was "pocket collected" that is it had been growing in a natural bowl of stone in the wild, which forced it to make a relatively compact root mass. The tree grew very strongly last year, putting on several three foot extension shoots --which have been removed.

I was not all that aggressive with root pruning, however, I did manage to replace about 70 percent of the soil in the root mass, as well as remove the furthest extending root which had died back. I also removed several large pieces of stone and a lot of mucky field soil.

I used a soil mix that incorporates regular bonsai soil, pumice and some other stuff. We'll see how things go.

Pot is Chinese with lion "handles" on the sides. Don't know if this is the final container, but it will work for a while.



Pretty good job. It should respond really well. I will not be surprised that you will start getting new buds popping from the trunk as they tend to do that when they get really strong
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
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Pretty good job. It should respond really well. I will not be surprised that you will start getting new buds popping from the trunk as they tend to do that when they get really strong
Thanks. I'm looking forward to working with the tree in the coming years. It is great material!
 

Johnathan

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Very cool tree. Your other oak is my favorite Oak Bonsai of all time lol but anyway, I had a couple quick questions since I consider you one of our residential oak specialist

Is this an inverse taper? Any plans to increase the hollow?

Screenshot_20190418-204251_Chrome.jpg

And what's going on up here? Is that raffia?

Screenshot_20190418-204219_Chrome.jpg
 

rockm

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Very cool tree. Your other oak is my favorite Oak Bonsai of all time lol but anyway, I had a couple quick questions since I consider you one of our residential oak specialist

Is this an inverse taper? Any plans to increase the hollow?

View attachment 238172

And what's going on up here? Is that raffia?

View attachment 238173
Yeah. That's inverse taper. Can't really do much about it, as the trunk is well over 100 years old. It is what it is at this point.

The hollow will remain as it is. One half of the trunk is deadwood. The wet climate here in Va. is rotting deadwood that developed over a very very long time in the more arid air of New Mexico. Actively removing a lot of wood could destabilize the trunk. I tend not to be aggressive with very old material. It reacts more slowly to work we take for granted on younger material. Slow is better with material like this.

The raffia was in place when I got the tree. It was put on apparently when that section of the trunk was shifted a bit. I may or may not get around to removing it.

And FWIW, I'm not really an oak expert. I've just had one in "captivity" for a long time. ;)
 

Tieball

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Really nice work, and care, on the tree. Definitely a challenge for finding and choosing a bonsai pot.

Seems like a perfect tree for one of those long and narrow bonsai pots I see periodically. Pots that are around 17”x6”x2.5”. I see them and usually wonder just what kind of tree would look best in them....besides a low, wide canopy flat top tree. Now I have a better visual idea of what could work....the roots would be perfect rolling through the narrow length of the pot...with movement in and out of the soil level. Thanks for posting and giving me some new pot use ideas.
 

Johnathan

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Yeah. That's inverse taper. Can't really do much about it, as the trunk is well over 100 years old. It is what it is at this point.

The hollow will remain as it is. One half of the trunk is deadwood. The wet climate here in Va. is rotting deadwood that developed over a very very long time in the more arid air of New Mexico. Actively removing a lot of wood could destabilize the trunk. I tend not to be aggressive with very old material. It reacts more slowly to work we take for granted on younger material. Slow is better with material like this.

The raffia was in place when I got the tree. It was put on apparently when that section of the trunk was shifted a bit. I may or may not get around to removing it.

And FWIW, I'm not really an oak expert. I've just had one in "captivity" for a long time. ;)

Very good information. Thank you. And even though you consider yourself no expert, you've been doing it longer than me! lol it only took me 35+ years to finally take Momma's advice about listening to people who've already done what you're trying to do lol
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
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Really nice work, and care, on the tree. Definitely a challenge for finding and choosing a bonsai pot.

Seems like a perfect tree for one of those long and narrow bonsai pots I see periodically. Pots that are around 17”x6”x2.5”. I see them and usually wonder just what kind of tree would look best in them....besides a low, wide canopy flat top tree. Now I have a better visual idea of what could work....the roots would be perfect rolling through the narrow length of the pot...with movement in and out of the soil level. Thanks for posting and giving me some new pot use ideas.

I have a small, long narrow pot like the style you're talking about. I have found that it drains very,very poorly. It's Tokoname-made, but it has only two drain holes at the far ends. I've tried to use it for landscape plantings, but soil in it tends to remain far too wet for most trees. For this tree, I'd need to find a very large version of it, like 24" x 8" or something with a lot of drainage.

The pot it is in is higher end Chinese. I picked it up at the 2005 D.C. ABS show. It has VERY large drainage holes, like 3" by 3". It drains VERY well. It was one of those "see it, buy it, even though I have no tree to put in it" pots. It's been sitting around since I bought it, as its stark blank lines, depth and overall size don't "go" with many trees.
 
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