Green leaf maple problem

Dpcharles01

Seedling
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Hi I recently purchased a potted green leafed Japanese maple. After I pruned a few branches, the entire tree started to drop all of its leaves. I noticed small webs under the leaves and sprayed with an organic pesticide. The leaves are still dropping. They are turning brown at the edges and curling and then dropping. The soil also has a hard time drying out. I have withheld water now for a week. I have noticed that the soil I purchased it in is clay. Should I remove all the soil given all the issues and replace with better draining soil? I have done the finger nail test and it’s green underneath. I have performed this all over the tree and it seems fine. New buds seem to be appearing but when new leaves emerge they quickly turn brown at the edges and dry. Any help would be great thanks!
I forgot to add that I am in Florida in the middle of summer and the tree is in full shade with plenty of bright indirect sun light.
 

Attachments

  • 98D8F0E6-B457-4997-9ABE-A2C961BAA1DB.jpeg
    98D8F0E6-B457-4997-9ABE-A2C961BAA1DB.jpeg
    158.2 KB · Views: 84
  • 5CB0F9B1-8008-41C9-994B-B415FCC7AECD.jpeg
    5CB0F9B1-8008-41C9-994B-B415FCC7AECD.jpeg
    153.5 KB · Views: 86
  • 1ADE4969-C118-4EEE-9C92-043DF97D2AD1.jpeg
    1ADE4969-C118-4EEE-9C92-043DF97D2AD1.jpeg
    140.3 KB · Views: 80
  • 34696AD1-4E9F-4A81-94EA-1BA53C0A332D.jpeg
    34696AD1-4E9F-4A81-94EA-1BA53C0A332D.jpeg
    175 KB · Views: 93

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,724
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Spray with fungicide. Remove all the leaves and continue to spray after the new leaves come out weekly.

This has been a hard fungus year for many.
 

Dpcharles01

Seedling
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Thanks for the reply. Would you repot to remove the “forever wet” clay or just stop watering for a while?

I’m assuming the constant wet soil is from Florida summer humidity and lack of leaves.
 
D

Deleted member 21616

Guest
@Dpcharles01

-can you post a picture of the full tree? I am curious if this is affecting the whole tree or just a few branches/leaves.
-What has your weather been like (temperature/rain)?
-Are you fertilizing heavily?
-has the tree been in shade all long, or did you recently move it to the shade when the symptoms began to appear?

I recently purchased a potted green leafed Japanese maple

if you purchased this tree from a nursery, it is likely in a soil that is perfectly fine for the tree.

After I pruned a few branches, the entire tree started to drop all of its leaves . . . The leaves are still dropping. They are turning brown at the edges and curling and then dropping

You're saying that the soil is constantly wet - this can have the seemingly paradoxical effect on the leaves: they dry out! The fact that you pruned the tree (again, pictures would help) might mean that light/wind is now hitting tender leaves that were previously protected by the branches and leaves that you removed. Depending on how much foliage you removed, this could also explain your overly wet soil (more foliage consumes more water).

based purely on your description, my guess would be a combination of root rot, lack of oxygen, overwatering, and possibly sun/wind/heat scorch. But like I said, if your tree came from a reliable source I would trust the soil (and therefore rule out a few of these possible issues). get back to us with some pictures and details - by then, some of the usual experts will have chimed-in you will be on the right track in no time!

i would not jump to the conclusion just yet that your issue is fungal. @Smoke maybe you see something that I am not seeing?
 

Dpcharles01

Seedling
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
@derek7745

I brought the tree inside for pictures. Normally it’s outside with over head cover so I ultimately control watering. It has been a typical Florida summer. Rain every afternoon and high heat.

No fertilizer and shade the entire time.

I only pruned a couple relatively small branches that were badly placed after the spring flush hardened off. No major prunes and bleeding occurred.

The last few pics show some buds that are present

A few opened but quickly looked the same as the other leaves.
 

Attachments

  • CC2269E5-D615-4639-B938-9DE0A1573FFC.jpeg
    CC2269E5-D615-4639-B938-9DE0A1573FFC.jpeg
    106.7 KB · Views: 59
  • 35814BE8-F1D5-4073-988C-490EFE110F8A.jpeg
    35814BE8-F1D5-4073-988C-490EFE110F8A.jpeg
    199.4 KB · Views: 53
  • 5384FCB0-4FE9-4AC8-BF02-F3154921DF7B.jpeg
    5384FCB0-4FE9-4AC8-BF02-F3154921DF7B.jpeg
    73.1 KB · Views: 36
  • 6EAE6604-452E-4BBC-8046-CA58AED36C5C.jpeg
    6EAE6604-452E-4BBC-8046-CA58AED36C5C.jpeg
    77.8 KB · Views: 36
  • 9EF7AEF6-B95D-4254-94EE-8E5E33D0CFAD.jpeg
    9EF7AEF6-B95D-4254-94EE-8E5E33D0CFAD.jpeg
    168.4 KB · Views: 34
  • 7AA74DDD-D754-4855-A0F8-F76B8683F401.jpeg
    7AA74DDD-D754-4855-A0F8-F76B8683F401.jpeg
    96.6 KB · Views: 31
  • 30A4E2D5-B4E1-4EFF-9C8E-9AD160CF8B5F.jpeg
    30A4E2D5-B4E1-4EFF-9C8E-9AD160CF8B5F.jpeg
    172.2 KB · Views: 38
D

Deleted member 21616

Guest
this looks this tree is having trouble keeping its leaves hydrated in the summer heat. very normal.

i just went out to take some pictures of my arakawa for you. it is severely root-bound, and when i water it the water usually puddles at the surface and very slowly gets absorbed. it should not be doing this. the water should pour through the substrate freely and exit the bottom almost immediately. the last 2 weeks have been especially hot here, and some mature leaves have gone brown, new growth turned brown, and some leaves turned to a crisp and fell off.

again, my guess would be that your tree is affected by heat and possibly a bad root situation.

however, if this is almost all of the foliage that your tree produced this year, besides the trouble with heat it is also lacking vigour. you said you purchased it 'recently' - how recently? was it already in leaf when you purchased it, and do you have pictures of how it looked when you bought it? Was it shipped to you during a heat wave or did you buy it in person? did you buy it from a private individual, or from a bonsai nursery?

when you described the soil as clay, i imagined mud-type clay, which compacts and suffocates roots. is the soil visible at the surface the same throughout the pot? if so, it shouldn't be a problem. sorry to ask the obvious, but does your pot have drainage holes?

the best you can do is keep it in the shade and keep the substrate appropriately moist.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3234.jpg
    IMG_3234.jpg
    363.5 KB · Views: 34
  • IMG_3235.jpg
    IMG_3235.jpg
    262.4 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_3236.jpg
    IMG_3236.jpg
    217.9 KB · Views: 25
  • IMG_3237.jpg
    IMG_3237.jpg
    169.9 KB · Views: 23
  • IMG_3238.jpg
    IMG_3238.jpg
    202.6 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_3239.jpg
    IMG_3239.jpg
    182.3 KB · Views: 25

LanceMac10

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,798
Reaction score
17,176
Location
Nashua, NH U.S.A.
USDA Zone
5
Got more deadwood than live. Hope you didn't spend too much. Whomever sold it should have given it away........
:mad:
 

Dpcharles01

Seedling
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Yes the tree was shipped to me from the Carolinas the leaves shown here are about 60-65% less than before. I bet you are right about the heat. Florida heat is no joke compared to a More northern climate.

Thanks for pics. Mine looked just like that prior to the drop.

The million dollar question is, will more leaves push when slightly cooler weather comes? The cambium layer is still green but I’m not sure how often I should check. If it’s good now will it remain good?

Is it ok to bare root now and replace with 100% bonsai soil to help with water management? The training pot does have many holes and water quickly drains through. When I pulled it from the pot it was very wet after many days without water.

I would like to assume that since the spring flush hardened off and there was an abundance of leaves that the tree was able to collect some energy for at least another push. I’m new to maples obviously.
 

MrWunderful

Omono
Messages
1,457
Reaction score
1,952
Location
SF Bay area
USDA Zone
10b
I know tridents are good down in texas, but the high heat/humidity might be too much. Do maples grow well in florida?
 

WNC Bonsai

Omono
Messages
1,867
Reaction score
2,049
Location
Western NC
USDA Zone
7b
Check with a local nursery and/or bonsai club to see what they recommend for growing J. Maples in your area. Since you haven’t added your location to your profile it is hard for us to make recommendations since Florida has several hardiness zones, but the plants are typically hardy in zones 6-9 so you are either on the edge or outside their comfort zone. They are likely cooking in the heat or have not acclimated to the new temperature regieme.
 

Dpcharles01

Seedling
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Check with a local nursery and/or bonsai club to see what they recommend for growing J. Maples in your area. Since you haven’t added your location to your profile it is hard for us to make recommendations since Florida has several hardiness zones, but the plants are typically hardy in zones 6-9 so you are either on the edge or outside their comfort zone. They are likely cooking in the heat or have not acclimated to the new temperature regieme.

Thanks for the reply. I’m in Tampa Florida and that’s a good point. I don’t see a lot of Japanese Maples around here. I’m curious to know if acclimation is possible or if this will be a constant struggle In the height of summer.
 

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,724
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Thanks for the reply. I’m in Tampa Florida and that’s a good point. I don’t see a lot of Japanese Maples around here. I’m curious to know if acclimation is possible or if this will be a constant struggle In the height of summer.
The latter....
 
Top Bottom