Ground Layer Arakawa?

ndl17

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Hello! This is my first post on this website, as I am new to bonsai since Fall 2019! I've read a couple books and watched a ton of YouTube videos.

I could use some advice with a nursery Arakawa. I thought for sure I would have to air layer it [and never having air layered before, I was nervous that it would fail and I'd lose half a tree]. That is, until I saw this post wherein a gentleman said that Arakawas could be ground layered with wet sphagnum moss. Does anyone have experience with this?

Could I also ask for recommendations on where a good place might be? I know you should generally try to layer it below a junction, but the matter is complicated by [what I think will become] a hollow on the outside of the first bend (See pic #3). Therefore, I figured I would need to layer the tree above the first branch so the first branch would act as a sap puller and make for less dramatic taper.

Also, I realize having it inside is super unhealthy for the tree, but the weather in Pittsburgh this week has been below freezing and I didn't know what else to do! In previous weeks we had weather around 75°F.

Thanks for any advice you can offer!

Nick from Pittsburgh
 

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sorce

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Welcome to Crazy!

Sorry for the delay. Putting links gets Newbs jammed up for approval.

Sorce
 

MrWunderful

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Ground layer is usually done as low as possible to generate new ideal roots on the entire plant.

Air layer- generating roots on a part of the plant (usually a branch) then separating to get an identical clone as a separate plant.

Its a bit confusing because its the same thing more or less, just with different locations on the tree. A ground layer technically is an air layer, just at ground level.

I dont use sphagnum for layers myself, just a bonsai mix as a rooting medium. A lot of people have success though.

I think first you decide on what your ultimate goal is.
Make this tree the best it can be?
Use it as mother stock for cuttings?
If your tree were my tree, I would ground layer it most likely unless the roots are perfect. (1 year)
Then I would let it get healthy, hope it pops lower buds to start bringing the taper back. I would also layer some of the fatter sections off for ground growing For 5-10 years.
 
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Your idea of a ground layer vs air layer seems confused.

1. Why do you want to layer the tree? I can barely see what appears to be a graft in pic 3, just below that giant scar. If it’s a graft, you won’t want that with the mature Arakawa bark. Also the scar is unattractive.

2. ground layer: on the ground; adding soil or moss around a low cut bark ring. Or technically you could bend a branch all the way back to the pot (ground) for a ‘ground’ layer if you wanted. But don’t.

3. Air layer: high on the trunk or on a branch in a container.


If this was mine I’d do it somewhere above that scar. Pick a cool spot. Then just let it grow forever.
 

Shibui

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Everywhere on the trunk is below a junction. I guess you mean layer just below a branch but that's not strictly true. Layers will root pretty much anywhere that there is healthy leaves above the layer. Layering close to a branch will give you a twin or multi trunk tree. The extra trunk may also give better trunk thickness when it grows a bit but neither are strictly necessary.
I do not see any evidence of a graft. There is some damage at the base of the scar - possibly remains of a broken branch which would also explain the scar. Corky bark is appearing all down to the soil so I guess it is probably a cutting or seed.
Layering just above the scar will get rid of that problem on the trunk and still leave a longer trunk. The stump may even sprout new buds and you will have 2 trees.
The tree is pretty young so no real features or style which means you can layer wherever you think will give you a good tree.

Decide what you want from the tree then layer low or high to suit those plans.
 

ndl17

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Sorry for the delay. [...]
No worries!! It makes good sense.

Its a bit confusing because its the same thing more or less, just with different locations on the tree. A ground layer technically is an air layer, just at ground level.
[...]
Aha! I'm grateful for the explanation, thank you! I was confused, I thought use of any "ground" or soil medium constituted a ground layer.

Also the scar is unattractive. [...]
If this was mine I’d do it somewhere above that scar. Pick a cool spot. Then just let it grow forever.
I definitely appreciate that input, because I never really know! Can you please elaborate on what makes it unattractive? I was under the impression that natural scars, et cetera, adds interest (for masculine trees).

Layering just above the scar will get rid of that problem on the trunk and still leave a longer trunk. The stump may even sprout new buds and you will have 2 trees. [...]
Ok great– thanks! Can you elaborate on how the problem will be resolved? Will it die back to below the scar?


Thank you everyone for the awesome advice!!!
 
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You are right, certain deadwood techniques do compliment masculine trees and improve the look of age; usually better suited for conifers than deciduous. This tree is prized for its bark. That scar is large and not appealing to my eye, and takes away from the very appeal of this cultivar.

Read this book if you haven’t. It’s all about the art and aesthetics of bonsai. It’s one of my favorites.

 

River's Edge

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Thanks for any advice you can offer!
Significant damage to lower part of trunk. So I would not ground layer.
Little or no taper or interesting movement to trunk so no one particular spot seems better than another for air layer.
Nursery pruning has left unsightly bulging collars and stubs in many locations.
Best Options
1. Landscape tree, requires simple transplant in a good location. Assuming it is recommended for your climate.

2. Airlayer several spots near top of tree and start from scratch with fewer problems to fix. Takes a long time but the advantage is several small trees to work and learn on. Pick spots that have branches above and below. Airlayer less than three inches below a fork to avoid longer straight sections. Pick forks that have uneven branches. One is thicker than the other! It helps to strengthen the tree prior to attempting air layers. Good opportunity to learn some Bonsai techniques and husbandry skills.

3. Return to the nursery, if they have several of this type select one that is smaller, less money that has better roots, healthier trunk and lower branching. It will develop faster with fewer problems to address. Do an exchange or refund if possible.

4. If not available in this cultivar, pick the best maple suitable for your climate that is available. Once again based on root formation, trunk formation, and lower branching. Roots and trunk are the most difficult and time consuming to change, branching and foliage not so much! Therefore the best choice is always the one with the best nebari and trunk. Look for even distribution of roots, flare at he base of the trunk, evidence of taper. ( try to avoid or plan to reduce long straight boring sections). As a beginner the key is to pick plants suited to your climate. Note: if you air layer a cultivar that has been grafted on stronger rootstock to survive in your climate, then the resulting Bonsai requires extra winter protection.
 

ndl17

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By the way, can you airlayer in multiple spots on a single tree at the same time?

Read this book if you haven’t. It’s all about the art and aesthetics of bonsai. It’s one of my favorites.
I just bought it– thanks for the recommendation! Most people are hesitant to give bright-line rules, so this looks very useful.

2. Airlayer several spots near top of tree and start from scratch with fewer problems to fix. [...]
This seems like the best option based on all of the advice I've gathered. I'm probably no different from other newcomers insofar as I want an old tree, fast. But I agree, starting from scratch might be the most rewarding use of this tree. Thanks!
 
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By the way, can you airlayer in multiple spots on a single tree at the same time?


I just bought it– thanks for the recommendation! Most people are hesitant to give bright-line rules, so this looks very useful.


This seems like the best option based on all of the advice I've gathered. I'm probably no different from other newcomers insofar as I want an old tree, fast. But I agree, starting from scratch might be the most rewarding use of this tree. Thanks!

You will be happy with the purchase. I wouldn’t call them bright line rules, more like artistic guidelines to help understand and mimic characteristics found in nature.

As far as multiple air layers, yes, it can be done. I haven’t done that yet but I believe you have to keep in mind that the more you remove from the mother plant at once, the more distress you are causing. If you would want to keep the mother alive, only cause it a reasonable amount loss so that it can recover. That’s my informed speculation. Im sure others can improve on that idea.
 

River's Edge

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Pick spots that have branches above and below. Airlayer less than three inches below a fork to avoid longer straight sections. Pick forks that have uneven branches. One is thicker than the other! It helps to strengthen the tree prior to attempting air layers.
When air layering multiple spots on a tree ensure enough foliage and branches for each layer to be supplied sufficient for root formation! if you wish to retain the mother plant ensure enough branching and foliage below the lowest air layer to supply the base. Below are some photos of a multiple air layer on a shimpaku juniper, I know it is not a maple but the principles of the technique are the same. Four air layers at the same time. Desireable root formation result. Plus a picture of mother plant and successful air layers after separation.Tree with air pots.jpegRoots exposed.jpegResult.jpeg
 
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