Ground layer options

[JesusFreak]

I’ve got a elm tree that needs an air layer. I repotted it last year and chopped it down before I really new much about bonsai. The nebari is terrible and gotta be fixed. Really my question is how should I go about doing it as there’s so many options. 1. Leave it in the box and put a plastic pot with moss of desires girdle. 2. Take it out, prune the roots back a tad and bury it in the ground 1-2 inches above the girdle. 3. Bury it
In the ground with the roots unpruned. I’m sure there’s are other options too. Just not sure what’s best. This thing grew like crazy when in hopes it last year.

 

[SeanS]

Why do you want to work the roots if you’re trying to layer it off of them?

 

[JesusFreak]

I’m sorry mate. Ground layer is what I mean to post it as. Good question. ThAts why I asked the question. Some people people answer questions with questions

 

[SeanS]

Just leave it in the pot it’s in (without any root work or repotting) and start the ground layer

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

4. Take cuttings from the branches and use those as root grafts to build an insane nebari.

Air/ground layering fat trunks might cause the inner woody part of the trunk to heal poorly after sawing the bottom off, and this'll eventually rot away.

 

[JesusFreak]

4. Take cuttings from the branches and use those as root grafts to build an insane nebari.

Air/ground layering fat trunks might cause the inner woody part of the trunk to heal poorly after sawing the bottom off, and this'll eventually rot away.

Honestly I’m not too comfortable with this option. I’ve never done a graft and I don’t think someone of my level of experience should be trying something like that. Also I figured there was an easier route than grafting roots. I’ve heard elm trees are very tough

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I'm not trying to convince you to divert your course, but it's something to consider. Air layering can work fine and give you good results. I do however honestly believe that grafting is something we all should just try. It seems like a major hurdle for people, but it's a mental one for the most part. It really is as easy as it looks.

 

[JesusFreak]

I'm not trying to convince you to divert your course, but it's something to consider. Air layering can work fine and give you good results. I do however honestly believe that grafting is something we all should just try. It seems like a major hurdle for people, but it's a mental one for the most part. It really is as easy as it looks.

Well I’m looking for help on a Japanese maple graft in the spring. And I was gonna ground layer this elm.

 

[River's Edge]

You will have better results with ground layer or air layer if you allow the tree to recover fully for another year before attempting. After all you repotted and chopped the tree back last season.

 

[JesusFreak]

You will have better results with ground layer or air layer if you allow the tree to recover fully for another year before attempting. After all you repotted and chopped the tree back last season.

Kinda what I was thinking too. Maybe I should be patient here.

 

[River's Edge]

Kinda what I was thinking too. Maybe I should be patient here.

Good thinking and reasoning, if the tree is stronger with more foliage and better root system it can produce more roots in a shorter period of time, very important with ground layers and air layers. You are way ahead of the game if the initial layer produces many strong roots rather than a few. Same reasoning applies to collected trees, given longer recovery time they respond better to development techniques when applied.
Also, it helps to strengthen the tree ahead of time with appropriate fertilization. Will also improve air layer/ground layer results!

 

[leatherback]

TO be honest, I would take this from its pot. Do proper rootwork for 2, 3 years in a row and keep the nebari covered. This often is enough to get a nice rough nebari.

This is a carpinus a one season after I worked the roots hard, and planted deep:

 

[JesusFreak]

Good thinking and reasoning, if the tree is stronger with more foliage and better root system it can produce more roots in a shorter period of time, very important with ground layers and air layers. You are way ahead of the game if the initial layer produces many strong roots rather than a few. Same reasoning applies to collected trees, given longer recovery time they respond better to development techniques when applied.
Also, it helps to strengthen the tree ahead of time with appropriate fertilization. Will also improve air layer/ground layer results!

I was gonna start fertilizing in a week or so as the temps are already hitting mid 70s here in South Ga. thought that may help it push through if I decide to do a layer come March

 

[River's Edge]

I was gonna start fertilizing in a week or so as the temps are already hitting mid 70s here in South Ga. thought that may help it push through if I decide to do a layer come March

If I was planning an air layer for the spring my fertilizer program would be the previous growing season and previous fall, not a month before. That being said I tend to allow longer recovery times and prefer to work on real vigorous trees! Lots of options and approaches one can take.

 

[JesusFreak]

Oh I’ve been fertilizing it since I got it. Haven’t fertilized it the last 2 months tho