Guidance for Kotohime

LanceMac10

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#61
They look a little pale to me actually. Don't be afraid of the sun. A lot of people call these "understory" trees. My experience has shown me, outside of the hottest time of summer, JM's like sun. Stay on top of your watering and protect from strong winds, wind is the biggest problem, I've found. JM leaves are fairly thin and delicate and desiccate rather quickly if your not careful. :mad:
 
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#65
Here is an example of what I'm talking about:

View attachment 94268

Please note: when I was doing this, in my haste to make a picture, I forgot to put tie down wires in the pot! The two big screws on either side of the tree are there to tie the board down to the pot. The tree is screwed onto the board.

So, after I snapped this picture, I lifted the tree and board out, dumped the soil out, and ran wire up from the bottom of the pot's drain holes. Then put some soil back in, set the board/tree back on, wired the board down, then back filled with soil. The bottom of gene tree is buried about an inch under the soil. You could not see the tops of the two screws when it was done.
what type of wood do you recommend using for the board -looks like you're using a scrap of plywood,does that hold up in the soil?
 

Adair M

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#66
It only has to last a couple years. A piece of solid board is better than plywood. My little piece of plywood was really handy, so I went with it.
 

Paradox

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#68
Now I'm curious as to where you acquired the tree.
I'm not criticizing, but nothing up here is even slightly moving.
Of course, it HAS been a strange "winter":confused:

This is from Bill Valvanis and I am sure the tree was well taken care of prior to shipping. It has been a wacky winter. Spending "a few days" inside a post office may have been enough to start the tree leafing out.

@JoeR Just be careful with the tree. Even on a "warm" day the air can still be dry and too much wind can dessicate those tender leaves.
 

JoeR

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#69
Here is an example of what I'm talking about:

View attachment 94268

Please note: when I was doing this, in my haste to make a picture, I forgot to put tie down wires in the pot! The two big screws on either side of the tree are there to tie the board down to the pot. The tree is screwed onto the board.

So, after I snapped this picture, I lifted the tree and board out, dumped the soil out, and ran wire up from the bottom of the pot's drain holes. Then put some soil back in, set the board/tree back on, wired the board down, then back filled with soil. The bottom of gene tree is buried about an inch under the soil. You could not see the tops of the two screws when it was done.
Is this board big enough? Too late now if its not, its already screwed on and potted.

0308161710-1.jpg

I couldnt find a bigger one that was already cut to a good size and I didnt feel like bringing the saw out lol. I figure its enough to get a good start.
 

Adair M

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#70
That should get you started. Next time use a bigger one.
 

Adair M

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#72
Is it safe to use plywood? I feel like it would rot and mold or the glues used to make them would go in the soil.
I have used plywood. It didn't appear to harm the tree. But a solid board is better. Plywood can warp.
 

JoeR

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#73
I think it has come a long way in just a few months! The base is considerably better, and the wound has healed almost completely. The new growth looks healthier too.


First picture is as aquired for comparison, second is the plan for spring.
 

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JoeR

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#75
Repotted today, first photo is of it almost one year ago and the rest are of the repot today. HUGE improvement in the nebari IMO. I did as Adair suggested and used a larger board and screwed it in place. The tile from the last repot definitely did its job though.


I want to propagate as many of these as I can; with that said, could I root what I chop off now? I think Bill Valavanis recommends spring softwoods, but these are not softwoods...
 

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Eric Group

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#79
Repotted today, first photo is of it almost one year ago and the rest are of the repot today. HUGE improvement in the nebari IMO. I did as Adair suggested and used a larger board and screwed it in place. The tile from the last repot definitely did its job though.


I want to propagate as many of these as I can; with that said, could I root what I chop off now? I think Bill Valavanis recommends spring softwoods, but these are not softwoods...
You can root hard wood cuttings. I never had much trouble with JM... I mean you won't get 100%, if you want higher percentages, do air layers...

I don't know what you are going for with this tree but I think you can get a natural look without shaving it down to a stump...
 

JoeR

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#80
You can root hard wood cuttings. I never had much trouble with JM... I mean you won't get 100%, if you want higher percentages, do air layers...

I don't know what you are going for with this tree but I think you can get a natural look without shaving it down to a stump...
Thanks for the input. I thought about airlayers, but decided a repot was a higher priority at the moment.

Can you explain where you see this going as far as design is concerned? The most natural route would probably be leaving both 'trunks', which I'm not opposed to either... just going for a shohin sized tree.
 

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