Guidance on Trunk Development

[dbonsaiw]

I've been working on this little maple and the trunk is ready to be cut back again next spring, but I'm unsure how to proceed with the new leader. As you can see from the pic, there are two fairly close internodes on the second section of the trunk and then a few inch space to the next internode - way too far for this tree. I'd like to ideally prune it back to that second node where the two shoots emerge. The first nodes on those branches, however, are also far from the trunk. How to proceed? Here are some options I was considering:

1 - prune back to second node, leaving current branches and hope for new buds - prune off old branches when new shoots form;
2- prune back to second node, removing current branches to stimulate new buds - I am concerned that there may be die back and I won't get the shoots at the second node; or
3 - Thread graft a new leader - I bent a branch in anticipation of this, which is being held by the velcro.

If I go with the thread graft, I assume I should initially cut back higher to maintain sap flow while the graft takes. I wasn't sure if I could just prune directly above the graft (figured this would lead to die back and a failed graft, but I have no experience with this).

 

[Colorado]

I would go with option 1 personally.

 

[SeanS]

Even the 2nd node looks too long for the design. It might just be the photo but the 2nd section of trunk (that you’re planning on chopping) looks as long as the first section.

 

[dbonsaiw]

Even the 2nd node looks too long for the design. It might just be the photo but the 2nd section of trunk (that you’re planning on chopping) looks as long as the first section.

I believe its the pic. Attached are a few more shots with a tape measure. Not sure how one judges the size of segments of the trunk. If I measure the first part from the soil to the lowest point of the cut it is 3 inches; the second part would be from there to the node in question - 2.5 inches. If I measure the first part from the soil to the highest point of the cut it is 4 inches; the second part would be from there to the node in question - about 1.5 inches.

 

[sorce]

I'd leave it until it answers the questions for you.

We shouldn't assume the trunk is ready to be cut back again because it was stated.

Merica..... internet.....equity.

Sorce

 

[Pixar]

See if you can hook the lower branches under one of the nebari ( roots ) you might end up with a double trunk

 

[19Mateo83]

If this was my tree, I would cut it back hard at the red lines, hoping to stimulate new back budding where the orange lines are. Once it has died back I would chop to the blue line the next year. That would leave some nice movement in the trunk line and the leave the two lowest ones to thicken the base. Just my .02

 

[Shibui]

Correct about the too long internodes on the smaller replacement branches. They will have to be removed and replaced by new shoots yet to emerge.
looks like there is already some slight swelling at that fork you plan to cut back to. I've rarely had good results from chopping out the main trunk and using both side branches. It just doesn't look good at best and at worst swells badly as the cut heals and the 2 branches continue to grow. I now almost always make a diagonal cut to take out the main trunk and one of the side branches. Even though that initially leaves a larger cut it heals much cleaner and neater. No need to worry about another side branch as you'll almost always get lots of new shoots from the base of the remaining branch and one of those will usually make a good side branch. In this case another one will replace the existing branch with too long internode as a new trunk.
With this tree I would go straight for the diagonal chop. @19Mateo83 has the angle about right with the purple cut line but take it down a bit to include the side branch and just clear the other right branch. Seal the cut soon after chopping and you should not have any problems. Leave the other one longer until spring. It will help to start callus over the chop and will draw sap to get new buds started at the node. Spring shoots can have really long internodes so leaving the remaining leader long will draw sap and the new shoots should have shorter internodes.

Good luck with the tree. The lower trunk is a great start.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Purple line cut looks good.

 

[dbonsaiw]

Many thanks on the responses. My likely gameplan is to cut the trunk back to the purple line and the side branches to the red lines on Mateo's post. Thinking about what Sean and Shibui said, I think it would make sense to eventually re-cut the trunk on an angle, which would give me movement and also shorten the second section of trunk somewhat.

'd leave it until it answers the questions for you.

Reminds me of a promise I made to my wife. I spend so much time looking at and talking to my trees, I promised her that if the trees ever talk back I'll throw in the towel and seek help.