Gustavo's JBP entry

[Gustavo Martins]

Gustavo,

you may wish to test this.

With any of the seedlings that were transplanted or cut [ accidentally or deliberately ]
Placement was ------- replanted in the evening
Left in full sun from the next day.

Transplanting into soil mix - 5 mm silica based gravel 7 parts
3 parts aged compost.
No deaths.
Individual pots are earthenware clay.
We are also windy.

Good Day
Anthony

They actually get a bit of sun, maybe an hour in the morning, now that the azimuth of the sun is a bit northward.

I think most are ok so far, but one which is starting to getting a light green. Not sure what it means... maybe losing chlorophyll?

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Down to 8. Those that died had their roots cut

Moved to sun and added some organic fertilizer last week. Let's see if they grow some more now. It's only starting to warm up now

 

[Anthony]

Gustavo,

out of the 200 or so planted, down to 10 that are able to
grow with speed [ trunk thickening ] making choices
and giving away.

Too many.

The slow ones from February still have cotyledons.
4 months more or less and not much.
Best of growing.
Anthony

 

[Gustavo Martins]

My cuttings are not doing good since moving into the sun. I think only 1 is still healthy.

The 'regular' ones (with no root cutting) are all doing fine... and starting to ramify (I think).

 

[Anthony]

Gustavo,

all 30 something in clay pots are in full sun and growing well.
On a fertiliser programme, Blaucorm [ 12 N... ] 5 mm gravel
plus the compost of the Leucaena l. [ similar to Rabbit compost ]

Mix is 2 parts compost, 8 parts inorganic.

Given 5 to 6 beads Blaucorm, every Wednesday.

Humidity around 60 to 70 %, waiting for late rains. Breezy.

A few are much taller than the others, and have needles.
Some from February still have the cotyledons, and immature
needles.

The ones sourced from Eve's Garden are short seedlings now developing
needles.

We have two give away saucers 30 cm x 5 cm, same soil mix.
Watered every other day.
A pain.
Started off with 30 seedlings down to 25 or so.

Clay cup and one plant is definitely easier on the nerves.

The clay is doing it's job, the containers are cool to the touch.
The seedlings are watered twice a day, morning and evening.

By next year, from having done this quite a few times.
The seedlings in the cups will be root bound and lifted out
to be placed into a wider, but not deeper clay saucer.
Often from that size you can see the radial roots developing naturally.
Then it is just another year of free growing to trunk and branches
ready for trunk size.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[RobertB]

The stem cutting seedling really need six weeks or so of shade before the full sun. It's also better to slowly move into sun. I've had some scourching on mine moving to quickly.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Gustavo,

all 30 something in clay pots are in full sun and growing well.
On a fertiliser programme, Blaucorm [ 12 N... ] 5 mm gravel
plus the compost of the Leucaena l. [ similar to Rabbit compost ]

Mix is 2 parts compost, 8 parts inorganic.

Given 5 to 6 beads Blaucorm, every Wednesday.

Humidity around 60 to 70 %, waiting for late rains. Breezy.

A few are much taller than the others, and have needles.
Some from February still have the cotyledons, and immature
needles.

The ones sourced from Eve's Garden are short seedlings now developing
needles.

We have two give away saucers 30 cm x 5 cm, same soil mix.
Watered every other day.
A pain.
Started off with 30 seedlings down to 25 or so.

Clay cup and one plant is definitely easier on the nerves.

The clay is doing it's job, the containers are cool to the touch.
The seedlings are watered twice a day, morning and evening.

By next year, from having done this quite a few times.
The seedlings in the cups will be root bound and lifted out
to be placed into a wider, but not deeper clay saucer.
Often from that size you can see the radial roots developing naturally.
Then it is just another year of free growing to trunk and branches
ready for trunk size.
Good Day
Anthony

the ones that did not have their roots cut are doing fine too Anthony

 

[Gustavo Martins]

The stem cutting seedling really need six weeks or so of shade before the full sun. It's also better to slowly move into sun. I've had some scourching on mine moving to quickly.

I did give them about 4 weeks of shade, but then they went directly into full sun. It may have been to much... Next year I'll do more more if needed.

Nevertheless, I think that the whole point of root cutting is to promote ramification lower down the trunk. however, I am already getting that on those that were not cut... so either my source of seeds (genetics) or my environment are doing it for me...

 

[theone420]

I did give them about 4 weeks of shade, but then they went directly into full sun. It may have been to much... Next year I'll do more more if needed.

Nevertheless, I think that the whole point of root cutting is to promote ramification lower down the trunk. however, I am already getting that on those that were not cut... so either my source of seeds (genetics) or my environment are doing it for me...

I think the main point of the cutting is radial roots to create a nebari and early trunk flare. That can take time and it is best to start with a radial spread to help speed things up. The lower buds are a happy side effect but not necessary from what I am seeing, my uncut seedlings also have low buds starting 3/4" to 1" from the soil line.

 

[Anthony]

If you take a look at the images in the Bonsai Today article [12 ]
Growing pines from seed.

Note where the branches that are for trunk thickening, are located,
and the roots. You get trunk thickening, wound healing as the branches
are removed, and the rising root absorbs the wound scars.
So you get a flawless appearance.

However the author later shows the length of time to bring the branches
back into harmony.Last tree in the article.

Aside-
An earlier article has the opinion expressed, that J.B.pines look best with
very few, but heavier / thicker branches.

Return to discussion.
Showing on the second to last page of his article another way that is
more harmonious to a tree growing in nature.
However, the trees shown using this second technique, examples also
at the beginning of the article, are not great designs.

Most probably would not want to try the second technique.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Pines are really enjoying the warmth and humid climate now. 26c by day, 22c by night. Humidity >90% dew point >20c.

I think I can see them growing if I stay very still and watch ?

 

[Clicio]

I think I can see them growing if I stay very still and watch ?

Do it! ;-)

 

[Gustavo Martins]

All my pines that had their roots cut are now officially DEAD! Not sure why... they always looked very fragile and pale compared to the uncut ones.

Also lost one of the uncut. It dried.

So I'm now down to 4. These have increased in length substantially, about 2-3 times the size compared to the last image. will post some pictures tomorrow.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Some pictures


The one on the left broke some needles. A pot next to it fell over with the wind ?

They are all starting to send new side shoots as can be seen on the second picture

 

[my nellie]

At least these 4 are growing healthy!
Bravo!

 

[Gustavo Martins]

At least these 4 are growing healthy!
Bravo!

So far so good with these yes but I’m always concerned with them. I feel that I am yet to get to know them and their needs.

 

[my nellie]

Perhaps you might be interested in taking a look at the way I treated my three seedling cuttings (I was not courageous for doing more). Page #4, post #71
Have a good day!

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Only got 4 but have distinct growth ‘forms’. Crazy

This is strange with a ‘denuded neck’


This is putting buds


And this one has no neck and no buds

 

[Anthony]

May you evolve one that has 2.5 cm long needles.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Just for the record.

They seem to be ok and still growing but less vigorous now... nights are starting to get colder. I think they have changed gears and are now focusing on developing the buds for next spring (really evident in one of the 4).

Curious if any has any idea what those light coloured stripes on the trunk are?