***Harunobu's Satsuki Seeds***

Glaucus

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Selected a couple of the largest seedlings sown last winter. They should have the size now to maybe develop flower buds next growth season and flower in spring 2023. If these had been cuttings, they could have had flower buds right now.
 
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Pitoon

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View attachment 402039

Selected a couple of the largest seedlings sown last winter. They should have the size now to maybe develop flower buds next growth season and flower in spring 2023. If these had been cuttings, they could have had flower buds right now.
Looking good! Not happy I lost mine.
 

pweifan

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I will take pictures of mine tomorrow. Mine are much smaller than the ones @Glaucus just posted. The only ones that sprouted for me were 6-8 of the Suisen x Kobai.
 

Glaucus

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This is the slightly new sowing approach.

I sow densely on sphagnum moss:
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Sphagnum is soaked in water, drained, but not drenched. Then humidity dome to cover them up. And I put them near the central heater or on a 27C heatmap.

They will germinate after 11 days or so. This year I did not time. But unless the seed parent is a triploid, the seeds all germinate.

Once the root comes out from the seed, I transplant the those seedlings to a tray with only peat/perlite. I put in a thick layer because I might decide to overwinter them in that tray. The thicker the layer of soil, the better. Ideally, this tray has drainage holes. Then I just space them out using a toothpick:
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If they do have leaves opened, I orient them so the leaves are in the air, not touching the soil. The seeds could use some misting, especially if the soil mix isn't that wet.
Then humidity dome back on, of course. And under the LED light.

Then after a few weeks, these partially germinated seedlings just keep going no problem:
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A bit of a more optimized method could be to sprinkle a thin layer of peat only on the peat/perlite, and then make evenly spaced holes and fill each hole with a seedling, for better spacing.
I just find that is hard makes good holes or position them at an exact spot with lot of perlite particles.

You can see some algae is growing on the perlite and some moss also emerged.

The light intensity is 55-75 umol/m2/s according to the Photone app (free phone app that acts like a light/PPFD sensor).

Then I put those trays with drainage holes in larger trays without them:
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Long term plan is to move these outdoors when it is really humid/raining somewhere in late April or May. I might try to use a polytunnel to avoid late frosts.

But I will probably try to move some of the more favoured crosses that grow well into individual pots somewhere in January, to try something new.
 

Glaucus

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Sphagnum is soaked in water, drained, but not drenched.

I mean, the sphagnum was not wringed after soaking. It was soaked/drenched in water beforehand. Then drained without wringing the water out.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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Good idea moving the young seedlings into potting mix, I’ll be interested to see how that works compared to the other method.

I’m going to try to winter over the seedlings from the summer in the garage with some of this years Satsuki cuttings I’m growing out as whips. I’m going to start out with 32 various smaller flowered cultivars and maybe add another tray with 32 more as the cuttings in the cold greenhouse are still slowly growing. Out temps are hovering in the mid 40’s to 60F

Maybe now that I have a little time between projects, I’ll try and transplant my seedlings too.

cheers
DSD sends
 

Glaucus

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It worked fine last year. I transplant early so I can space them out more. And I use a potting mix only to save on sphagnum, since it is not needed after germination.
Hopefully by selecting the seeds that germinate first, I am making some important genetic selection, but it is probably just chance.
If you sow less dense and use a better method of spreading out the seeds, this may not be needed.
The seedlings will probably grow tall enough to start touching the dome cover before spring frosts are definitely over. But I will see once we get there since that is months off.

But yes there is more moss and algae growth without sphagnum cover. If peat and sphagnum have the same price, sphagnum is still nice to use.

Oh, I also need to do a fertilizer vs no fertilizer test. The potting mix I use is actually 1/3rd perlite, 1/3rd unfertilized peat moss, 1/3rd potting soil with some fertilizer.
I will try to make a trays with 2/3rd peat moss instead. And then give one dilute fertilizer once the seedlings get some size. Then observe the difference.
 

Glaucus

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I have the following azalea seeds left over:
Maischnee x Hanatsuzuri 2 pods
Maischnee x Kangiten 1 pod
Midnight Flare x Hekisui 1 pod
Midnight Flare x Kangiten 1 pods
Midnight Flare x Hanatsuzuri 11 pods
Occhio di Pernice (Italian R.mucronatum hybrid, white with purple) x Hanatsuzuri 2 pods
Milešovka (Czech azalea with large blotch) x Hekisui 2 pods
Čertoryje (Czech red kurume) x Hanatsuzuri 4 pods
Toshi London (very new Belgian indica) x Hekisui 10 pods (tons of seeds, good for mild climates)

And from my own seedlings:
As15 (white satsuki) x Hanatsuzuri 4 pods
We01 (voilet with white centers R.nakaharae-satsuki hybrid) x Hanatsuzuri 5 pods
 
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