Has anyone tried the insecticide called EIGHT

[5th element]

Went by the garden store today and picked up a small bottle of concentrate for insects. It is called EIGHT. Just wondered if anyone had used it? Can it be applied to entire tree and soil?

 

[KennedyMarx]

I haven't used it, but following the instructions is probably the best idea. Then again, there are some trees (Fukien Tea for example) that have a very low tolerance for chemical treatments.

 

[aml1014]

I work at a local nursery and if there is any signs of miss thays the first stuff we use and it works awsome and is safe to put on most plants

 

[jk_lewis]

Went by the garden store today and picked up a small bottle of concentrate for insects. It is called EIGHT. Just wondered if anyone had used it? Can it be applied to entire tree and soil?

What is IN it? Don't care what it is called.

 

[Cypress187]

I think it's very potent stuff because they claim to kill

ants, aphids, asian ladybugs, bag
worms, beetles, borers, brown dog ticks, chinch bugs,
cluster flies, codling moths, crickets, earwigs, fleas,
cicadas (locusts), gnats, grasshoppers, japenese
beetles, scales, thrips, weevils, whiteflies, mole
crickets, spider mites, tent caterpillars, mealybugs,
leafminers and many other listed insects.

U don't like bugs?

 

[jk_lewis]

Well, you have to add bees, moths and butterflies, spiders, ladybugs, and other "good" bugs.

The label will tell you what the active ingredient is. It would be nice to know.

 

[rockm]

Um, actually knowing what you're applying to your trees is pretty valuable information.
The active ingredient in Eight is permethrin

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/PNAI/pnaishow.php?id=59

FWIW, knee-jerk carpet bombing with insecticide at the "first sign" of trouble can lead down a very bad path. As Jim said, you not only kill "bad" bugs, you also kill "good" bugs. Permethrin is toxic to honeybees and probably a host of predatory insects that are busy eating the bad bugs in your backyard. It's also apparently VERY toxic to cats, who can develop " convulsion, hyperaesthesia, hyperthermia, hypersalivation, loss of balance..." and bad exposures require aggressive vet treatments--it you have cats running about in your garden, its something to think about.

I don't apply blanket insecticide to my trees. Over the years, I've found that most problems arise from trying to kill everything because of a few chewed leaves. No, I'm not anti-insecticide. They have their place, especially with chronic infestations of aphids or the like that can persist for months. I spray RARELY, though. Some years, I don't spray anything. I don't let a few ugly leaves make me believe I've got some massive problem that needs fixing. If you've got fewer than a dozen trees, spraying anything is kind of questionable, depending on the problem.

This comes from experience. Have had Chinese elms and a few other species (some maples) completely defoliate themselves after contact with some insecticides. That's where actually KNOWING WHAT YOU'RE APPLYING comes in. Such a broad spectrum of species suggests a rather potent poison. I wouldn't apply anything like that until I have done some research BEFORE buying it, much less applying it.

 

[jk_lewis]

Um, actually knowing what you're applying to your trees.
The active ingredient in Eight is permethrin

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/PNAI/pnaishow.php?id=59

FWIW, knee-jerk carpet bombing with insecticide at the "first sign" of trouble can lead down a very bad path. As Jim said, you not only kill "bad" bugs, you also kill "good" bugs. Permethrin is toxic to honeybees and probably a host of predatory insects that are busy eating the bad bugs in your backyard. It's also apparently VERY toxic to cats, who can develop " convulsion, hyperaesthesia, hyperthermia, hypersalivation, loss of balance..." and bad exposures require aggressive vet treatments--it you have cats running about in your garden, its something to think about.

I don't apply blanket insecticide to my trees. Over the years, I've found that most problems arise from trying to kill everything because of a few chewed leaves. No, I'm not anti-insecticide. They have their place, especially with chronic infestations of aphids or the like that can persist for months. I spray RARELY, though. Some years, I don't spray anything. I don't let a few ugly leaves make me believe I've got some massive problem that needs fixing. If you've got fewer than a dozen trees, spraying anything is kind of questionable, depending on the problem.

This comes from experience. Have had Chinese elms and a few other species (some maples) completely defoliate themselves after contact with some insecticides. That's where actually KNOWING WHAT YOU'RE APPLYING comes in. Such a broad spectrum of species suggests a rather potent poison. I wouldn't apply anything like that until I have done some research BEFORE buying it, much less applying it.

Hurray! A voice of reason in the bonsai community!

First, a few insects will do no lasting harm. Sprays aren't needed. Kill them individually.

The Nuclear option is almost never the correct approach to pest management. Look for the least toxic option first. This often (usually?) means a bit more work on your part, which is I suspect why so few use it. But larger insects can be picked off by hand and dropped into a pail of water (or stepped on). Smaller, softer insects can be squished between thumb and forefinger. (There's a surprising amount of pleased accomplishment associated with that action). There is nothing in squished insects that can hurt you. Fingers rinse off easily.

Chewing insects (beetles and caterpillars) can actually be allowed to chew for a while -- assuming you aren't prepping for a show; these bugs don't kill bonsai. They're candidates for picking AND squishing, even the Japanese beetles.

The sucking insects (aphids, true bugs, whitefly, scale etc.) do more lasting damage, but most are soft bodied. For scale, aphids and their ilk I simply squeeze the tips of branches (new leaves) and leave the residue on the tree. That seems to discourage further attacks on that branch. A soap spray applied weekly will keep the others under control.

If that doesn't work (and it usually does), step up the attack. An application of Bacillus thuriengenesis (BT) will safely kill all caterpillars and worms. It is non-toxic to everything else.

For really serious infestations (and shame on you for allowing that to happen!) use as little pyrethrin spray AT SUNSET as possible (to avoid killing bees and other pollinators). Pyrethrins have a very brief half-life. By morning it will be harmless.

Anyone who keeps a close eye on his trees (and if you don't why have trees?) should never have to use anything that potent. Keep tables clean of detritus (old soil, fallen leaves, etc.) and dry; leave room for air to circulate between trees, don't let canopies touch, etc. and pest issues should be minimal.

EXCEPT, of course, if your trees are indoors. Pests seem to arise by spontaneous generation on indoor trees. But since you, your family and pets live indoors with your trees it is even more important to keep poisons to a minimum.