Has Anyone Used Phyton 35?

[Mellow Mullet]

Just wondering....Due to the very rainy spring and well fairly wet summer, I have had all types of fungus and maybe pseudonomas attack my maples. I have lost three, check out my website for pictures of the most recent loss. I will also probably lose a very old serissa that I have. Anyway, I have tried all types of fungicides, daconil, mancozeb, etc., not really helping much so I am trying to find something better. Phyton claims to be a bactericide/ fungicide and also claims to be systemic. Any experiences or recommendations.

Thanks,

John

 

[thumblessprimate1]

@erb.75 has used it and seems to have had good results. I used it a while, but not sure if it saved a maple or not. I'd use it again though to prevent disease.

 

[GrimLore]

I have had all types of fungus and maybe pseudonomas attack my maples.

For that I have used Agri-Mycin 17 Fungicide (Ag Streptomycin) when I lost all our plants 1n 2015 with good success. It was an area wide problem that Spring. The weather combined with poor drainage was the cause and have since corrected the problem(s). A 2 pound bag makes a lot as it takes 2 tablespoons per gallon. I strongly recommend using caution mixing and applying it. Skin contact will cause some rough intestinal problems It is however a great anti-bacterial and also treats a lot of fungal issues. It is safe to work on the landscape, potted plants in as little as 4 hours but I avoided it for 24 - I was using a LOT as the bacteria was in the soil which had to be removed.

I too lost Serrisa, all, including the one I was working the roots on this year but for a different reason. They were not draining properly and were in the rain for 3 days. Those tough little plants drown easily Might try them again but be more tentative. I did not treat any of them, would have been a waste of time. For now there is one throwing root suckers but most likely won't come back as the trunk and branches are splitting...

For the record all plants exposed to bacterial as well as the soil should go to landfill, painful, trust me on that.

A decent priced source is here https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/agri-mycin-17-fungicide-ag-streptomycin-2-pounds-245.

The link to Nufarm is http://www.nufarm.com/US/Home and if you contact customer service they hook you up with a Rep familiar with your area, I had many questions and the rep answered all.

Grimmy

 

[JudyB]

Not an answer to your question but an interesting side note about pseudomonas. I was listening to a science article the other day, and apparently that bacteria can be used to seed clouds for rain. I do not know if it has actually been done, but talk about a nightmare scenario...

 

[Mellow Mullet]

For that I have used Agri-Mycin 17 Fungicide (Ag Streptomycin) when I lost all our plants 1n 2015 with good success. It was an area wide problem that Spring. The weather combined with poor drainage was the cause and have since corrected the problem(s). A 2 pound bag makes a lot as it takes 2 tablespoons per gallon. I strongly recommend using caution mixing and applying it. Skin contact will cause some rough intestinal problems It is however a great anti-bacterial and also treats a lot of fungal issues. It is safe to work on the landscape, potted plants in as little as 4 hours but I avoided it for 24 - I was using a LOT as the bacteria was in the soil which had to be removed.

I too lost Serrisa, all, including the one I was working the roots on this year but for a different reason. They were not draining properly and were in the rain for 3 days. Those tough little plants drown easily Might try them again but be more tentative. I did not treat any of them, would have been a waste of time. For now there is one throwing root suckers but most likely won't come back as the trunk and branches are splitting...

For the record all plants exposed to bacterial as well as the soil should go to landfill, painful, trust me on that.

A decent priced source is here https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/agri-mycin-17-fungicide-ag-streptomycin-2-pounds-245.

The link to Nufarm is http://www.nufarm.com/US/Home and if you contact customer service they hook you up with a Rep familiar with your area, I had many questions and the rep answered all.

Grimmy

Thanks, Grimmy. I threw all of the maples into the trash, pot, soil and all. The serissa, I am trying to save, but it does not look good, there are pictures of it on my website.

I read about the agri-mycin and have considered ordering some of it too as it is not that expensive.

John

 

[Mellow Mullet]

Not an answer to your question but an interesting side note about pseudomonas. I was listening to a science article the other day, and apparently that bacteria can be used to seed clouds for rain. I do not know if it has actually been done, but talk about a nightmare scenario...

That is a nightmare....

 

[ianb]

I used Phyton 27 last year for the first time as we have a lot of issues here with maples. I must say with the exception of one tree that the maples this past year have grown like gangbusters and kept leaves well into fall...even had some fall color. Applied both by spray to larger/landscape trees and dunked for smaller trees in pots.

 

[JudyB]

Just curious if you tried Zero-tol? I have some as a just in case, but have never had to use it (yet)

 

[Mellow Mullet]

Just curious if you tried Zero-tol? I have some as a just in case, but have never had to use it (yet)

I have not, but it is on my list. It seems to be expensive, so I was curious about who had tried what. I think the I read some where here of a homemade version on zerotol.

 

[0soyoung]

I have not, but it is on my list. It seems to be expensive, so I was curious about who had tried what. I think the I read some where here of a homemade version on zerotol.

ZeroTol is little more than hydrogen peroxide. It works only on what is present at the time of application.

Std recipe is 2 tablespoons 3% hydrogen peroxide (from the grocery/pharmacy) in a quart of water. I add a drop or two of detergent/surfactant.

Phyton35 is basically copper sulfate - residues remain on the application site and are prophylactic. Hence it also tends to accumulate where the overspray/runoff goes.

 

[miker]

I plan to use it for dormant spray later this winter.

 

[bwaynef]

I've used Phyton-27 a couple times this year, most recently on a JM I found in the "Dead Plants Only" bin @ Lowes. I probably should've used it on some pines this year.

 

[GrimLore]

I have not, but it is on my list

I forgot to mention on the phone yesterday that I have been using Sulfur/Water solution of 2 tablespoons per gallon of water as an anti-fungal 3 times a year with very good results.

The bacterial solution here is definitely the Agri-Mycin 17 because of the Ag Streptomycin needed to kill it.

The biggest problem is identifying what is really going on. The list we talked about states "More than one symptom can be simultaneously on a single plant" making it more of a nightmare to ID. Instead of a PM though I will post it here -

Plant Symptoms Caused by Pseudomonas syringae

A variety of symptoms are associated with woody plants infected by Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae. Symptoms and symptom development depend on the species of plant infected, the plant part infected, the strain of Pseudomonas syringae, and the environment. More than one symptom can be simultaneously on a single plant.

•Flower blast: flowers and/or flower buds turn brown to black.
•Dead dormant buds, common on cherries and apricots.
•Necrotic leaf spots (entire clusters of younger, expanding leaves may be killed on filbert trees).
•Discolored and or blackened leaf veins and petioles resulting from systemic invasion and infection.
•Spots and blisters on fruit.
•Shoot-tip dieback, which appears as dead, blackened twig tissue extending down some distance from the tip (very common on maples and other seedlings).
•Stem cankers: depressed areas in the bark, which darken with age. A gummy substance often exudes from cankers on fruiting and flowering stone fruits (this symptom is referred to as “gummosis”). If cankers continue to enlarge, they may girdle the stem and subsequently kill a branch or the entire plant. IF the outer tissues of the canker area are cut away, the tissue underneath shows a reddish brown discoloration. This discoloration may also occur as vertical streaks in the vascular tissue.

Hope the information we discussed and this list helps my friend

Grimmy

 

[Carol 83]

including the one I was working the roots on this year

That was a nice one.

 

[KeithE]

Not an answer to your question but an interesting side note about pseudomonas. I was listening to a science article the other day, and apparently that bacteria can be used to seed clouds for rain. I do not know if it has actually been done, but talk about a nightmare scenario...

Cloud seeding does occur regularly, but I'm not sure if they have started using the bacteria. Typically silver iodide is used, which may not be any healthier than the bacteria!

 

[sorce]

John....

You're going to be alright whatever happens...FYI.

Nature calls...and Culls.

Trust her, let her, enjoy what she doesn't take.

Yesterday, when I started this pot....
I felt like it was yours.

By the end when I found this..
(Had to rotate that for my boy!)

I knew it was yours!



No worries.

You still...especially now...have to give me one more tree to do...

Kinda wanna do that ficus so I can use this "tropical" clay.
But let me know...one more and I'm shipping em.

Cheer up!

Sorce

 

[GrimLore]

That was a nice one.

There will be more, lost far nicer in the past - bad part was all the Serrisa where my own damn fault...

Grimmy

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I have used Phyton 27 on my orchids, no harm to the orchids. It is a copper sulfate pentahydrate complexed with a quaternary ammoniacal surfactant. - meaning it is a more water soluble form of copper sulfate, that has its own surfactant built right in. I am not certain of correct dosages, but I had no reactions even from my more delicate orchids and ferns. It is one of the few systemic acting agents that will kill a weird ameba like organism that can live in the veins of Phalaenopsis orchids. It has good broad range activity against quite a number of diseases. It is easily available and not overly expensive. I have been using 1 teaspoon per gallon (roughly 5 ml per 4 liters) - some orchid growers use a much higher dose rate, but I am not certain on the exact amount.

Should work fine for bonsai

Manufacturer's website.
http://phytoncorp.com/

 

[Mellow Mullet]

John....

You're going to be alright whatever happens...FYI.

Nature calls...and Culls.

Trust her, let her, enjoy what she doesn't take.

Yesterday, when I started this pot....
I felt like it was yours.

By the end when I found this..View attachment 171469
(Had to rotate that for my boy!)

I knew it was yours!

View attachment 171470

No worries.

You still...especially now...have to give me one more tree to do...

Kinda wanna do that ficus so I can use this "tropical" clay.
But let me know...one more and I'm shipping em.

Cheer up!

Sorce

Thanks, Sorce, that is a nice pot. The image on the back actually favors me, lol, and with all of the holiday eating, I , and my belt, feel like I have swallowed the moon, lol. It looks nice and I think that I have the perfect tree for it. I don't know which ficus you are talking about, all of the ones that I have are quite large, except for the one that old man winter got that I am growing out, again. I is still kinda big, it fills up an oil change pan. Could you give me an idea which one it is and I will post a current picture?

 

[Mellow Mullet]

Thank you to every one who offered advice on the Phyton and other remedies. I think I will use some of the peroxide spray a few times until the other stuff gets here. I ordered the phyton and agri-mycin and will be apply them when they come in. Hopefully I can get this stuff under control.