Help a beginner with a Cork Bark Elm (Indoor)!

[chanduell]

Hello everyone!
I have recently become extremely interested in bonsai growing, especially because I was always a fan of trees, but not as much with other plants. That said, I want to begin my very first bonsai, but I have several questions I have not found the answers to yet! Again, I have never owned a bonsai, and I am only 23 so I have zero experience. I will begin with a cork bark elm!

Is there any downside in growing a bonsai from seed versus buying one that is very young?

If I grow from seed, should I plant multiple in one pot and separate them afterward?

When growing a cork bark elm, when do I transfer it from compost to subtrate?

Do I use any compost soil at all in a substrate mixture, or can it just be akadama, lava rock, & pumice?

Are you supposed to reshape branches with wire once they are already mature, or do I do it early on as they are growing?

In terms of sacrificial branches, how do I cover up scars? Is covering scars even possible?

Please let me know if these questions make sense, and also please feel free to send me any extra advice!

 

[caffeinated]

That's a lot of questions at once, which might be why replies are lacking. Consider fewer at a time? The downside of growing from seed is that it takes years to just get anything to start applying any bonsai techniques to vs buying a seedling or sapling, much less buying something from a garden center. Growing your own tree from a seed would be very satisfying but I'd suggest then picking up some younger trees to practice bonsai on so you don't kill the one you raise from seed. You can put your seedling in regular potting soil until you're actually starting to apply bonsai techniques to it. In the meantime, watch lots of you tube and read lots of books and blogs.

 

[Shibui]

All the above +
If growing from seed you can sow seed in one pot then transfer the seedlings to individual pots when they grow or sow one to a pot if you like. Roots will need to be trimmed at some stage and I find it good to start that real early when I first prick seedlings into individual pots.

Indoors is NOT a great option for elms. It can be done by experts with really good conditions but or most of us the trees will slowly fade and die without fresh air and sunlight.

Scars will heal over naturally as the tree continues to grow. Obviously larger cuts take longer to heal so we try to have scars at the back of the trunk where possible.
Sometimes scars on trunks are used as a feature, showing a tree that's been storm damaged and developed a hollow trunk. Somewhere for owls, etc to nest.

Most shaping is done when the branches and trunk are still young and flexible but there are some techniques that allow even thicker, older branches to be bent. A lot of bonsai shaping is done by pruning. New shoots will usually grow in a different line to the original section so repeated chop and grow can give attractive bends.

 

[uniquedivine]

I'm relatively new, so take it all with a grain of salt, but I'll answer as best as I can.

The downside of growing of seed is that it will take around 5+ years to get anything to work with, nevermind anything bonsai-looking. Also worth noting that a lot of seeds die, so plant a lot, pick out what looks the best.

You can do, yeah, just don't wait too long as their roots might intertwine to an extent where separating them would damage them.

Right before spring is the best. Look up many guides before you repot. I've also heard that tropical species (unsure if cork bark elm is one), it's better to repot in the summer where the temperature is better.

It can just be (the proper term) inorganic. However, adding an organic component (eg compost, bark, etc) improves moisture retention (means you won't need to baby it as much, and won't get dried out between waterings). I recommend pumice, akadama, not lava rock. IMO lava rock serves no purpose, and it's roughness can damage when repotting. Akadama is the best, but it breaks down, costs a lot, needs sifting. I personally recommend pumice, but i recommend doing your own research.

This depends on the tree. Ficus trees become very brittle when woody, so it'd be basically impossible to wire them when mature. Juniper trees, however, are so flexible that even the trunk can frequently be wired. It depends on your tree. Look at your more mature branches, flex them a little (please don't break them lol), see if you can flex them to such an extent to affect the look of the tree, if not, you'll need to wire when young in the future.

A few options. One is to not hide them, they can look pretty. You could place them out of sight (eg behind the tree). I'm currently reading bonsai heresy which says to use sacrificial branches at the top of the tree, not at the bottom, where the scars will be covered by the general foliage. For more advanced techniques, you can approach graft across the scar when it's young, but research this heavily before you do it. Hopefully, you could also do your best to treat the scar well to ensure it heals over, unless you have a huge cut (like 3 inches across), it should heal.

I recommend placing your tree outside, if you live in a place where the tree will handle it. I also recommend reading whatever books on bonsai you can find, you'll learn a lot. If you have anymore questions feel free to shoot them my way!

 

[chanduell]

All the above +
If growing from seed you can sow seed in one pot then transfer the seedlings to individual pots when they grow or sow one to a pot if you like. Roots will need to be trimmed at some stage and I find it good to start that real early when I first prick seedlings into individual pots.

Indoors is NOT a great option for elms. It can be done by experts with really good conditions but or most of us the trees will slowly fade and die without fresh air and sunlight.

Scars will heal over naturally as the tree continues to grow. Obviously larger cuts take longer to heal so we try to have scars at the back of the trunk where possible.
Sometimes scars on trunks are used as a feature, showing a tree that's been storm damaged and developed a hollow trunk. Somewhere for owls, etc to nest.

Most shaping is done when the branches and trunk are still young and flexible but there are some techniques that allow even thicker, older branches to be bent. A lot of bonsai shaping is done by pruning. New shoots will usually grow in a different line to the original section so repeated chop and grow can give attractive bends.

Wow, these are wonderful comments!!
If you do not suggest an elm, what do you suggest I start with? I thought an elm would be nice because I've heard it adapts well even if it's an outdoor made bonsai, and it grows quite aggressively.
Thanks!

 

[chanduell]

I'm relatively new, so take it all with a grain of salt, but I'll answer as best as I can.

The downside of growing of seed is that it will take around 5+ years to get anything to work with, nevermind anything bonsai-looking. Also worth noting that a lot of seeds die, so plant a lot, pick out what looks the best.

You can do, yeah, just don't wait too long as their roots might intertwine to an extent where separating them would damage them.

Right before spring is the best. Look up many guides before you repot. I've also heard that tropical species (unsure if cork bark elm is one), it's better to repot in the summer where the temperature is better.

It can just be (the proper term) inorganic. However, adding an organic component (eg compost, bark, etc) improves moisture retention (means you won't need to baby it as much, and won't get dried out between waterings). I recommend pumice, akadama, not lava rock. IMO lava rock serves no purpose, and it's roughness can damage when repotting. Akadama is the best, but it breaks down, costs a lot, needs sifting. I personally recommend pumice, but i recommend doing your own research.

This depends on the tree. Ficus trees become very brittle when woody, so it'd be basically impossible to wire them when mature. Juniper trees, however, are so flexible that even the trunk can frequently be wired. It depends on your tree. Look at your more mature branches, flex them a little (please don't break them lol), see if you can flex them to such an extent to affect the look of the tree, if not, you'll need to wire when young in the future.

A few options. One is to not hide them, they can look pretty. You could place them out of sight (eg behind the tree). I'm currently reading bonsai heresy which says to use sacrificial branches at the top of the tree, not at the bottom, where the scars will be covered by the general foliage. For more advanced techniques, you can approach graft across the scar when it's young, but research this heavily before you do it. Hopefully, you could also do your best to treat the scar well to ensure it heals over, unless you have a huge cut (like 3 inches across), it should heal.

I recommend placing your tree outside, if you live in a place where the tree will handle it. I also recommend reading whatever books on bonsai you can find, you'll learn a lot. If you have anymore questions feel free to shoot them my way!

Yes, these all help tremendously!

A couple things though:
I thought sacrificial branches had to be the branch closest to the trunk base so that the trunk grows bigger? Also, I really do want an indoor bonsai rather than an outdoor bonsai, so I know some others have suggested not using an elm. Do you suggest something like a ficus?
Thanks!

 

[Colorado]

Yes, these all help tremendously!

A couple things though:
I thought sacrificial branches had to be the branch closest to the trunk base so that the trunk grows bigger? Also, I really do want an indoor bonsai rather than an outdoor bonsai, so I know some others have suggested not using an elm. Do you suggest something like a ficus?
Thanks!

Yes tiger bark ficus, or any ficus really, is probably a better indoor option than elm.

 

[Michael P]

For indoor bonsai the best is Ficus microcarpa in any of its varieties: Tiger Bark, Green Island, Green Mound, etc. Dwarf schefflera, Schefflera arbicola, is just as easy to grow but is limited to just a few styles or forms.

 

[Shibui]

Ficus are definitely the best indoor bonsai. Even they do better outdoors in warmer conditions but they can be managed as indoor plants without too many specialist conditions.
Down here Ficus rubiginosa is a native, extremely hardy and fast to develop.

 

[August44]

Hello everyone!
I have recently become extremely interested in bonsai growing, especially because I was always a fan of trees, but not as much with other plants. That said, I want to begin my very first bonsai, but I have several questions I have not found the answers to yet! Again, I have never owned a bonsai, and I am only 23 so I have zero experience. I will begin with a cork bark elm! sounds perfect

Is there any downside in growing a bonsai from seed versus buying one that is very young? one bought, bigger to start with. You know that

If I grow from seed, should I plant multiple in one pot and separate them afterward? If you are going to use them separately, then plant
separately. If going to plant as a clump/forest, then plant that way now if you want. I wouldn't like to try and separate roots all growing together. It all depends on how close together they are planted

When growing a cork bark elm, when do I transfer it from compost to subtrate? I would think a good draining compost type soil would be good for awhile and then trasfer to a good bonsai substrate as you mention below after it has developed and grown some, like a year or so.

Do I use any compost soil at all in a substrate mixture, or can it just be akadama, lava rock, & pumice? see above

Are you supposed to reshape branches with wire once they are already mature, or do I do it early on as they are growing? Either way

In terms of sacrificial branches, how do I cover up scars? Is covering scars even possible? Yes they can and will heal. You have to cut sacrifice branches off when things are right. Don't wait to long or you will have a really big scare to heal up. Cut off with concave cutters and put paste on it and I will heal up ok for the most part. You could also make dead wood with carving out of it. Lots of options/

Please let me know if these questions make sense, and also please feel free to send me any extra advice! All is just my opinion

 

[Wulfskaar]

Just beware that Ficus is supposedly poisonous to pets.