Help! Chlorosis in my Juniper.

glacon

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I purchase a gorgeous, old juniper bonsia earlier this year. Around April it came down with phomopsis. A very late in the season, emergency repot was recommended. I also started to treat it with Dithane Mancozeb every seven days, it's been around 6 weeks.

The tree is putting on new growth, which looks fine: green and healthy. A lot of the old growth, which I want to save, seems to have chlorosis. The chlorosis is spreading. It is the worst at the bottom of the tree and the back of the tree.

I have a long toothpick in the soil that I use to check moisture and am very good about not over-watering.

I have some Biio-Gold bonsai fertilizer in the pot.

It also has shown some signs of spidermites which I've started treating with Bayer 3 in 1.

The photos attached are from three weeks ago, and it's gotten worse. Lighter lime green/ yellow color. You can see the chlorosis in these photos. I can take more pictures in the morning.

Any thoughts? Please help me save my tree.
 

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Dav4

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I think the color change in the foliage is related to spider mite damage... and... it's been shown that imidicloprid, the active ingredient in Bayer 3 in 1, can actually increase mite populations. Have you checked to see if mites are still in on the tree? I'd use two or three other miticides going forward and rotate their use every few weeks.
 

rorror

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I would hose the foilage every evening, to flush the mites off. Eggs from spidermites hatch in the evening.
Also anti insectal stuff can damage leaves, also only do it after sunset. And flush off the stuff after 30min or so.
 

glacon

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I think the color change in the foliage is related to spider mite damage... and... it's been shown that imidicloprid, the active ingredient in Bayer 3 in 1, can actually increase mite populations. Have you checked to see if mites are still in on the tree? I'd use two or three other miticides going forward and rotate their use every few weeks.
The main sign of the mites are the webs, but they're not that bad. I do want to note the foliage doesn't seem damaged other than the color change and BRITTLENESS.

I have only used the Bayer 3 in 1 twice and after those photos were taken. Once last week, once this week.

i was more concerned the Mancozeb could be causing the problem. Doesn't seem to be the case. Any other possible causes?

What miticides do you recommend? I used to use Mite-X.
 

glacon

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I have. I didn't see movement in the specs that fell on the paper. It's a few webs that are the telltale sign.

What miticides do you recommend?
 

River's Edge

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A lot of the old growth, which I want to save,
The older damaged growth will likely turn yellow, then brown and drop off. I would remove the damaged foliage and weak foliage. Place the juniper in sun and a location with good air movement. Spray off the tree thoroughly once or twice per week. If the damage continues, treat with Malathion . I have found it effective if repeated three times at seven day intervals. The reason for the repeat treatments is to catch eggs as they continue to hatch for a period of time. The dosage instructions will be on the product. I add two or three drops of liquid Dawn detergent to the Malathion and warm water.
Once the juniper is healthy it will be possible to cut back and induce back budding to fill ion the interior with new foliage if desired. Keeping weak or damaged foliage on a juniper is not a good plan. Fortunately they are one of the species that are relatively easy to back bud, graft and otherwise create foliage in the interior!
Insects like congested areas and a regular routine with juniper is to remove weak or damaged foliage when it is noticed to prevent congestion and keep the remaining foliage healthy. Recovery from fungal issues and pests can take a long time. Typically I expect to see improvement within three to six weeks and healthy growth after that point if all is well.
 
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glacon

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Here are some photos from this morning. The light green foliage is very brittle and tips will fall off of the tree is moved or bumped.

You'll see some residual signs of the phomopsis. Also the camera ont phone tends to push greens yellow.
 

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glacon

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The older damaged growth will likely turn yellow, then brown and drop off. I would remove the damaged foliage and weak foliage. Place the juniper in sun and a location with good air movement. Spray off the tree thoroughly once or twice per week. If the damage continues, treat with Malathion . I have found it effective if repeated three times at seven day intervals. The reason for the repeat treatments is to catch eggs as they continue to hatch for a period of time. The dosage instructions will be on the product. I add two or three drops of liquid Dawn detergent to the Malathion and warm water.
Once the juniper is healthy it will be possible to cut back and induce back budding to fill ion the interior with new foliage if desired. Keeping weak or damaged foliage on a juniper is not a good plan. Fortunately they are one of the species that are relatively easy to back bud, graft and otherwise create foliage in the interior!
Insects like congested areas and a regular routine with juniper is to remove weak or damaged foliage when it is noticed to prevent congestion and keep the remaining foliage healthy. Recovery from fungal issues and pests can take a long time. Typically I expect to see improvement within three to six weeks and healthy growth after that point if all is well.
Thank you for your answer. I have been removing the weakest foliage, but not the lighter stuff that seems like it could still be viable.

While new growth is happening, I haven't seen much in the way of other recovery and it has been about 7 weeks. It feels like the lightening and weakening of foliage is spreading - but this could be the delay between the initial problem and it showing the damage.

Should I remove all the lighter foliage? It was such a beautiful, and expensive tree, I hate to make it uglier than I have to. See attached photo of it before the phomopsis.
 

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River's Edge

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The majority of the foliage that is yellow, is old weak foliage that should have been removed during normal thinning and care. if you look closely most of the yellow foliage is hanging down or closer to the interior on the branch. Shaded and being discarded in favour of new growth.
I am not discounting the previous or current health concerns. it is important to allow for recovery from repot, phomopsis and spider mite activity.
I am suggesting that daily care may be the most important step at this point. Removing the affected foliage, monitoring the watering and providing a sunny location with good air movement.
take the time to learn how to identify healthy juniper foliage and weak foliage. The normal routine is to thin the weak and promote the strong.
 

River's Edge

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Should I remove all the lighter foliage? It was such a beautiful, and expensive tree, I hate to make it uglier than I have to. See attached photo of it before the phomopsis.
I would remove the weak foliage regardless of colour. The strength of the foliage is determined by the structure of the growing tips, basically single extensions or fan like extensions. It is a nicer tree and shows evidence of slowly allowing the interior to die out over time. That can be corrected and overcome with proper care and appropriate techniques. A slower process but definitely worth carrying out because the structure is there. I would advise that you seek local assistance to put together a specific care plan and timing of care routines for this tree.
 

glacon

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I appreciate your thoughts. A question. I'm Los Angeles, not too far from the coast. We are currently hitting temps in the low 80s. I've been moving it to a shady spot in the afternoon.

Should I just keep it in full sun? I know this type of Juniper likes a lot of sun.
 

River's Edge

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I appreciate your thoughts. A question. I'm Los Angeles, not too far from the coast. We are currently hitting temps in the low 80s. I've been moving it to a shady spot in the afternoon.

Should I just keep it in full sun? I know this type of Juniper likes a lot of sun.
With that location and in recovery I would give it a bit of protection as well for a few more weeks. Wait until you see extensions, a sure sign of regained health. Once the extensions are 2 or 4 inches than I expect full sun will be ok. Not necessary to take a chance at this point.
PS: let the extensions grow for this season and rejuvenate the health of the tree!
 
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In this video they talk about the yellowing of shimpaku.
They call it Toya.

 

glacon

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Very interesting. Thank you for the video. One reason I have been reluctant to remove all of the light green foliage is some of it has dark green tips coming in. Should I remove them anyway?
 

glacon

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I have read mixed reviews about Bayer 3 in 1 and Malathion. Re: Malathion, I've read it kills helpful predator bugs, is for insects and not for arachnids (and thus only kills a small amount of mites), and that it's specifically indicated only for red spider mites.

Obviously there's a member here that has had good experiences with Malathion, and my father uses it against mites for his regular outdoor plants.

Does anyone else want to chime in here and suggest alternatives if I'm going to rotate through different miticides weekly?

Thank you!
 

Dav4

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My teacher, Tyler Sherrod, recommended malathion to me for mite control after my previous protocol failed. I use that along with sultan miticide, mainly, and a few other insecticides that are also effective miticides. I stopped using the Bayer product for mite control years ago
 

glacon

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My teacher, Tyler Sherrod, recommended malathion to me for mite control after my previous protocol failed. I use that along with sultan miticide, mainly, and a few other insecticides that are also effective miticides. I stopped using the Bayer product for mite control years ago
Thank you.
 
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