All of a sudden leaves on my Hornbeam has started turning yellow.
What could be the issue? The only thing that i am aware right now is that the tree doesn't receive enought sun on current location (working on a new one). Thanks!
Help! Hornbeam leaves turning yellow
- Thread starter Krone
- Start date
JoeH
Omono
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- USDA Zone
- 9B
I see nothing.
Paulpash
Masterpiece
If these leaves are inner leaves then it's shed them due to lack of light. It would have been helpful to see the whole tree so we could view the problem in context.
Hornbeam are similar to beech in the way the leaves totally blanket the branches - very little light can penetrate. Partial defoliation is need to stop inner buds dying off and the leaves connected with them.
Hornbeam are similar to beech in the way the leaves totally blanket the branches - very little light can penetrate. Partial defoliation is need to stop inner buds dying off and the leaves connected with them.
Paulpash
Masterpiece
And were they inner leaves? It looks healthy otherwise. Leaving it that bushy, especially on the left side, will give you shading out problems long term. Consider cutting away a third of the leaves on the left & apex. The right lower side looks more open - leave it as it is. It looks like Euro Hornbeam (Carpinus Betulus) - they like a bright spot with a little afternoon shade and protection from wind. The edges will go brown & crispy if it gets too much sun & wind.
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Paulpash
Masterpiece
Yes, leaf cutting to let light in. Take off the bigger ones on the outer canopy. Don't cut stems or branches!
have you moved it to the sunnier location?
Not yet. Was advised to me (local bonsai guy) that i leave my deciduous trees in shade until temperatures drop. 30 - 38°C at the moment. The forecast says that will drop to 25 in next days, so i should probably wait?
Have also shown leaves in local gardening shop (was suggested that it could be some kind of fungus), but i have to wait until Monday when their advisor is there.
Had also cut away a portion of the leaves, so that the light can reach inner leaves.
A bit too much informations and i'm really not quite sure what to do. Would assume that regardless of the reason why leaves are turning yellow, it would be the best option to move it to the full sun?
Have also shown leaves in local gardening shop (was suggested that it could be some kind of fungus), but i have to wait until Monday when their advisor is there.
Had also cut away a portion of the leaves, so that the light can reach inner leaves.
A bit too much informations and i'm really not quite sure what to do. Would assume that regardless of the reason why leaves are turning yellow, it would be the best option to move it to the full sun?
KiwiPlantGuy
Omono
Hi,
You have turned to a Bonsai forum for help and you still don’t know what to do
I shake my head and walk away, because at least 2 people and now me have advised to get it in the sun, and/or dry out your mix. Symptoms are either too wet or not enough sun or BOTH.
Charles
You have turned to a Bonsai forum for help and you still don’t know what to do
I shake my head and walk away, because at least 2 people and now me have advised to get it in the sun, and/or dry out your mix. Symptoms are either too wet or not enough sun or BOTH.
Charles
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
more sun, 6-7 hours for this one and I would give it more if I could....
….keep a hounds eye on the watering, though. Doesn't take but an afternoon of dry soil to crisp the edges. Good luck!
….keep a hounds eye on the watering, though. Doesn't take but an afternoon of dry soil to crisp the edges. Good luck!
Paulpash
Masterpiece
This one is a Hornbeam I grew from pinky thin raw material. It gets over 8 hours full sun in the 20-30C range and is protected from wind.
You now get to experience one of the great pre internet joys of bonsai that us more experienced folk used to do all the time - it's called trial and error. No amount of advice or help from the denizens of pixel world can decide where your tree will thrive and in what substrate. Use your eyes, your knowledge of where you keep your tree and how it responds to guide your tree back to good health. Best wishes!
You now get to experience one of the great pre internet joys of bonsai that us more experienced folk used to do all the time - it's called trial and error. No amount of advice or help from the denizens of pixel world can decide where your tree will thrive and in what substrate. Use your eyes, your knowledge of where you keep your tree and how it responds to guide your tree back to good health. Best wishes!
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
There's a good reason for having a bonsai look like a bonsai, and this thread is demonstrating once again that the trees ALWAYS need space for the birdies to fly through. You are supposed to style a tree with branches arrayed as a spiral staircase. This not only looks "tree like", it insures that the branches above do not shade the branches below. The Rule is: Each ascending branch is rotated 132.5 degrees about the axis of the trunk, and is high enough above lower, previous ranks so that there is distinct, visible air space of at least one leaf's length. This imitates the way nature arranges petals in the tiny buds of flowers and clusters of leaves so that as they expand and lengthen they emerge in an arrangement casting the least shade possible on the earlier unfolding leaves and petals. The shape of the leaves and petals is also reflected in that ultimate spacing in nature. Long petals and leaves have correspondingly long internodes which NOT coincidentally act to cast as little shade on fellow petals and leaves while attaining the greatest amount of exposure to sun and air for leaves and visibility for flowers.
Go out in the garden and confirm this Golden Arrangement for yourself. See how nature packs huge volumes of leaf and petal surface area into teeny tiny buds. See the progression as they go from packed tightly in that little ball, but grow into this very orderly arrangement. Again, notice that the distance between internodes is a function of the length of one cluster of leaves or flowers.
The OP tree is helter-skelter with no space for the birdies to fly through. If you want to create a tree with no internal leaves which die because they are shaded by new leaves, you're well on your way...
Go out in the garden and confirm this Golden Arrangement for yourself. See how nature packs huge volumes of leaf and petal surface area into teeny tiny buds. See the progression as they go from packed tightly in that little ball, but grow into this very orderly arrangement. Again, notice that the distance between internodes is a function of the length of one cluster of leaves or flowers.
The OP tree is helter-skelter with no space for the birdies to fly through. If you want to create a tree with no internal leaves which die because they are shaded by new leaves, you're well on your way...
I am working and learning on this tree. I am aware it's far from being a bonsai that's why i ask here for advices and recommendations.
Have already cut of some of the leaves, but now that i understand this issue a bit more, i think i will cut away even more.
Have already cut of some of the leaves, but now that i understand this issue a bit more, i think i will cut away even more.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Mildew and mold are encouraged by shade and too much humidity or water. Sun and fresh air deters mildew and mold.
You may get some leaf burn when shifting a broadleaf tree from shade to sun. New leaves will be sun hardy. A few leaves burned is better than a dead tree from too much shade and water.
You may get some leaf burn when shifting a broadleaf tree from shade to sun. New leaves will be sun hardy. A few leaves burned is better than a dead tree from too much shade and water.
